Help with Recipe for dry skin

Soapmaking Forum

Help Support Soapmaking Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

debbs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Messages
72
Reaction score
0
Hi just need a little advise on a recipe. This is my recipe i put through soapcal.

17% coconut oil
14% lard
15% Palm
38% olive pomace oil
8% shea Butter
8% Caster oil ( i havent put in to much co n want more bubbly so added a bit more caster does that make sence :oops: )
Water 8.36oz
Lye NaOH 2.97oz

Water as a % of oils as the defalt 38%

Superfat discount 6%

I will add salt ( for hardness) n sugar (for more bubbly) n a little tussah silk as well.

Does this sound ok for dry skin? Help appreciated :))
 
Looks good to me. But unfortunately the only way to know for sure is to test and try it :-( For example, I'm a strange one - sugar dries my skin out. I didn't know that, until I made a batch. I always test with a small (1 pound) batch, that way, I don't "waste" too much of my supplies.

Sorry I cant offer more :-(
 
This looks pretty well balanced to me.

If you want a less drying bar, I'd up the superfat to maybe 8%.

In my experience, salt doesn't do much for the hardness (unless you're specifically doing a salt bar with high superfat and mostly CO) and can potentially inhibit lather. I wouldn't bother with it.

Good luck with your soap.
 
I think i will HP this today as iam really inpatient so will add 2% jojoba oil at the end of cook. Iam a bit weird, it only seems to be my arms that get dry and itchy :? So trying lots of different recipes to see which is good for me, iam lowering the cleansing now to see if that makes a difference. :)
 
GM helps with itchiness and dryness, it makes soap creamy
 
Elly I like the sound of gm soap, but iam quite new at soap making,Icant hp it can i, but can i cp then put in the oven, Iam so inpatient, cant wait 4-6 week for curing :lol: How much gm would you suggest, and is it ok to use fresh supermarket gm. :?

Thanks
 
In MY experience: Both CP and HP soap CAN be used right away (once it's zapless), and both CP and HP benefit from the cure in terms of mildness and hardness.

If you are concerned with drying and itchiness, I strongly recommend you give ANY soap (even HP) AT LEAST 2 weeks to cure.
 
judymoody said:
This looks pretty well balanced to me.

If you want a less drying bar, I'd up the superfat to maybe 8%.

In my experience, salt doesn't do much for the hardness (unless you're specifically doing a salt bar with high superfat and mostly CO) and can potentially inhibit lather. I wouldn't bother with it.

Good luck with your soap.

Do you feel the sugar helps with lather? I have made a batch with sugar and without, but I can't try them yet! :)
 
Hi iam not sure really about the sugar thing, as i havent tried 2 of the same recipes with and without, think i should do that :lol:
 
Hi Debbs you can certainly use GM with HP but as Carebear says it would be better to let the soap cure for it to get milder and less drying even if is HP. I use 1/2 water & 1/2 GM of the total liquid amount, adding the GM to the oils and SF @ 10%, the soap after 3 weeks cure is really moisturizing and creamy and it gets better as it ages. I use sugar in all my soaps and really notice the difference, I use 1tbsp per kilo, sometimes I also use salt but cannot tell the difference. Hope this helps :wink:
 
I've noticed adding egg yolk to soap makes it more moiturising and creamy. I HP mine and it stinks like sulphur while it cooks but like cake batter when it's done :)
I'd use 1 yolk ppo. I've gone higher than that but I think 1 should be enough.
 
Elly Iam all for the gm soap, even brought the gm today. Will the above recipe be ok to use or have you any other suggestions recipe wise. Iam going to do hp and superfat 10% as you suggested. As iam doing hp will the soap turn brown in colour. I like the fact that there is no freezing the milk. So i add the milk to the oils them add my lye water stick blend and cook in the crock pot is that right :)
 
Your recipe looks ok to me, I would however suggest to lower castor oil to 5%. Your soap will darken as it starts to cook not sure if it will be brown but definitely a darker color, I only do CP haven't had much experience with HP so I can't help you much regarding HP outcomes. First part is done as for CP & after trace you can start HP. I also like the idea of not freezing the milk it is much easier to add the milk to oils, this is called the split method kindly shared by IrishLass, have a look at this link

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/forum/vi ... ass+method
 
Thanks for all your help i will make a hp and a cp tomorow. Should i add the 3% i take off of the caster and add it to the olive or palm. Last question i promise :lol: and i will let you know how i get on tomorow. :)
 
I'd up the olive oil, but that's just me. The castor will give you lots of small, dense lather which I really like in my soaps. The shea butter has lots of unsaponifiables, so I'd be sure to use an antioxidant to avoid rancidity. This looks like a nice formula to me. I'd up the super fat to 6.5%. Personally, I like to rely on a good formula over higher super fatting to achieve a soap formulated for dry skin. I don't feel like I'm getting clean if there's too much oil left behind from my soap.

With the amount of olive oil you're using, I'd reduce the water to 34% or you'll be waiting for ever for it to cure.

debbs said:
Hi just need a little advise on a recipe. This is my recipe i put through soapcal.

17% coconut oil
14% lard
15% Palm
38% olive pomace oil
8% shea Butter
8% Caster oil ( i havent put in to much co n want more bubbly so added a bit more caster does that make sence :oops: )
Water 8.36oz
Lye NaOH 2.97oz

Water as a % of oils as the defalt 38%

Superfat discount 6%

I will add salt ( for hardness) n sugar (for more bubbly) n a little tussah silk as well.

Does this sound ok for dry skin? Help appreciated :))
 
Mandolyn i was going to sf at 10% and use half goats milk to. what would i use as an antioxidant :oops:
 
I use Tocopherol T-50 which is Vitamin E, but not the type you get at the pharmacy. T-50 has way, way more tocopherols in it. You can find it at fromnaturewithlove.com

I put it into my oils as soon as I get them, then add some to each batch, although that's probably over-kill. I use it in all my lotions & salves as well. I haven't tried any other antioxidants, since this one has worked so well for me.

debbs said:
Mandolyn i was going to sf at 10% and use half goats milk to. what would i use as an antioxidant :oops:
 
yes you need to put that 3% deduction of castor into any of the other oils your total % must be 100. With your formula 8%SF is plenty in my opinion, I SF10% because my formulas contain higher %'s of CO which is very cleansing and a bit drying therefore I feel I need that extra unsaponified oils, that is just me, you need to try different %'s and find out what you feel most happy with :wink:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top