Select Shades Coloring System – a Mini Review

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TomS

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Select Shades is a FD&C and D&C dye based coloring system whereby you buy a set of 8 colors, and using the color charts provided, can mix them into over 800 color shades.

The cost is very reasonable, $26 for eight 2 oz bottles. I had no problem with ordering and delivery from Tradewinds Fragrance Company, the exclusive supplier of the product. http://www.twfc.com/ I received several e-mails informing me of the progress of my order and it was shipped on a timely basis.

When you calculate product usage, you must include all your liquids, not just the amount of oils used . They make this clear and I had no problem with the usage calculations.

The dropper tops provided for each bottle made the product easy to measure precisely. I found no problem in extracting each single drop. I did not experience any problems incorporating the product uniformly into my soap. The lather stays white and I did not notice any color in my soap dishes.

Select Shades provides both online and downloadable pdf color charts. http://www.selectshades.com/ For CP soaps, they have both low and high OO charts. I always refer to both of them in selecting a color and usage rate.

The first 2 colors I tried were Sea Holly and Cranberry. The Cranberry was accurate to the color chart, perhaps slightly to the dark end. Sea Holly was brighter than the charts – more of a lime green, and lacked the sage undertone that I was hoping for.

Trying to produce any kind of lavender or purple was a complete failure. All attempts came out pink or gray. Referring to their charts, I tried Cuban Orchid, Misty Lilac, and Easter Egg. All seemed to come out way more pink than purple. I also tried Purple Velvet by itself and the soap just came out gray. The non-gray colors were generally very nice, but bore no resemblance whatsoever to the charts. In fact, one color was, to my subjective eye, such a perfect rose color that I purchased some rose fragrance specifically to match with that color. In my opinion, the color charts are unreliable.

There are some significant discrepancies between the online and printable color charts. For example, Cuban Orchid has a different recipe online and is not even listed in the same color family. The Easter Egg color recipe also varies significantly. I tried several times to send an e-mail to SS (using both the Contact and Technical Help tabs) in order to get an explanation for the discrepancy, but got an error message each time. I tried using 2 different browsers, Firefox and Explorer, so I’m pretty sure it’s them. I also tried the Forum tab but just received more error messages. I also send an e-mail to Tradewinds but received no response. In my experience, there does not seem to be any customer support of any kind whatsoever.

After wasting a lot of time and materials trying to get a lavender, I tried the Lye Water testing method outlined in the SS FAQ section. They instruct you to mix some titanium dioxide into a lye solution (and optionally, OO) and this becomes your base for testing colors. I tried to match several colors that I actually produced into soap previously. I feel very comfortable reporting that this was a complete waste of time, lye, and TD.

SS uses the preservative Diazolidinyl Urea Iodopropynl Butylcarbamate. I don’t have a problem with the use of a preservative in a dye, but do you really want Diazolidinyl Urea Iodopropynl Butylcarbamate on your ingredient list – it’s almost as long as all my other ingredients combined!

Conclusion:
SS’s are capable of producing beautiful colors, both subtle and vibrant. If you already have SS and are getting the colors you want, by all means stick with a good result. The system is economical and easy to use. If you are looking for your first or a new colorant system, I would not recommend this product. The color charts are unreliable and customer support is non-existent. To paraphrase Alicia Grosso, you need to ask yourself whether you want to experiment with color or work with color. I am interested in working with color. With SS, I always feel like I’m experimenting. I find myself moving in the direction of pigments and clays.
 
Thanks for your well written and thoughtful review! I've had problems as well with SS. Every time I have tried a red based color it has completely vanished during the soaponification process. The lovely red swirl I put into the mold was completely gone and the soft strawberry pink I was pleased with at trace became a thin layer of pink on the top of the soap. I tried putting the soap in the freezer so it didn't gel thinking that was the heat was the issue but it made no difference. Perhaps it was a bad batch of reds, I don't know.

I have used it for very lovely melon and green shades and have made a pretty purple as well. I'm happy with it from a hobby soap maker with a small budget because I can get a wide variety of colors (provided I don't want red :lol: ) But I don't know what I'm going to get and I think that would be a problem for someone who soaped professionally and wanted consistent and reliable results.
 
Yes, thank you for the review. Here's mine:

I've used SS for several years now and there is a rather steep learning curve and yes occasionally colors go wonky but for the most part I've found they work very well.

It's not surprising that you found differences between the monitor and printed out charts - they often don't agree on colors in general. If you need a very precise chart then order one from Tradewinds/SS because you really cannot count on what you see on the monitor or coming out of your printer to really match what the person putting up the color sees. In fact, producing color swatches is a business in and of itself.

I too have had trouble with light purple - any yellowishness at all in your soap will turn purple to gray. Aggravates the life out of me. Dark purples I've had great luck with, for the most part, but even that cannot overcome some yellow. I tried to color a lemongrass-lavender soap purple with a yellow layer. The lemongrass EO, unfortunately, is quite yellow and so I ended up with oddly gray soap with a yellow layer. Lovely but not what I was going for!

While it takes some experimenting when I try a new formula, new fragrance, or new color - my results are very consistent from batch to batch. I just have to remember to take good notes.

Any time you change a formula in any way you should anticipate some testing.

Tradewinds is notorious for not responding to communication attempts but frankly I've not found any colorant system as reliable, versatile, easy to use, and generally useful as Select Shades. For me, the trade-off is worth it.
 
Carebear have you had any problems with the reds specifically? I'm guessing they wouldn't replace them but I am curious if it's just me or the red I got.
 
Let me clarify what a mean by my statement that there are differences between the online and printable color charts. My problem lies in the fact that the actual recipes for some colors are different on the online vs printable charts. For example, the online chart for Cuban Orchid indicates one part muted red, one part violet red, and ½ part false blue. The printable chart for Cuban Orchid indicates one part muted red, one part violet red, and 1 part false blue. As you know from working with SS, an extra ½ part false blue makes a big difference. My question to SS would be along the lines of which one do we go by. Perhaps the online recipe represents their most recent information and thinking, or maybe they just made a mistake.

I never actually printed the printable charts, I just downloaded the pdf file so I had it handy on my hard drive. The actual colors look identical to me on all the charts. However, your point about monitor calibration is very valid. I am also a photographer and work extensively with photoshop. Monitor calibration and accurate color reproduction are ongoing concerns for me.

Thank for your response to my post.
 
TomS said:
Let me clarify what a mean by my statement that there are differences between the online and printable color charts. My problem lies in the fact that the actual recipes for some colors are different on the online vs printable charts.
OK, that's just odd!

And I've never tried for a red - which is kinda the bane of soapers anyway. I don't know anyone who has gotten a true red without creating bloody psycho soap...
 
Ah yes, red. :lol: Fabric dyers have similar problems. It's either pink, too bluish, or bleeds like crazy. Okay I'll just chalk it up to the natural limitations of dyes.
 

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