i made my soap with ricing property. any way to save it ?

[IrishLass]

It may or may not be a hoax- it can go either way- but I don't think it's to big of a stretch to think that it could be for real, especially given the plethora of bad soaping info and videos that run amok on the net. It's truly dangerous out there for a newbie!

Whichever the case may be, I agree with the others- the soap needs to be tossed!


IrishLass

 

[Dahila]

We can only hope this is a hoax of some kind. Otherwise it's very concerning for sure. Time will tell if the poster returns.

You should check if the same IP belongs to more than one account. I know the style somehow..........

 

[Sonya-m]

I think the reason they've used that pic is cos they mention they read the post showing what ricing etc looks like so has simply taken it from there - I don't think they were saying that pic was their soap - I doubt very much theirs resembles even that!

 

[galaxyMLP]

Oops! I didn't realize that that was the image for ricing that is posted in the sticky on the beginning soapers forum. Now I feel bad.

At this point, if OP is truly unsure of what exactly went into the soap, I would toss it as well.

 

[origo]

Ooooo hold your horses.
Thank you for writing 3 pages of "throw that crap" .

Yes, I'm a real person. Yes I google'd "bad homemade soap" and found that picture that matches mine. What's wrong in that ?!?!

So what I did yesterday:

I put all that "bad soap" to heat, until it boiled a little and started smelling like hell. Some liquids rise to the surface of the mixtures. I drained them using the spaghetti drain plate (bad idea, because I forgot it's aluminum...)

Then I poorer some pork fat (aprox 1kg), because I remember I read somewhere that it makes the soap hard. and put some 30 drops of ylang-ylang and 20 drops of lavander essential oils in it to make it smell good. But hell, it was still smelling like crap... anyway

I started mixing it with the blender.

For everybody who contest that I'm the real thing I'm hereby attaching a picture.

So the mixture was like making a cake now, hard but with boulders inside.
Anyway, I let it 1 day, and this morning I stuffed it in the freezer. -30 degrees should make it hard for cutting

I remind you all of you that Thomas Edison tested lots of "ingredients" until it found the one suitable for his purpose. This is what I'm planning to do!

Will keep you posted with what's next.

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

Well, Edison did not go right back to the stone-age to start again - he did GOOD research and came to USEFUL conclusions and made actual ADVANCEMENTS.

While I think everyone should try things, there should be some sense to what they are doing at the very least - even if everyone knows it will not work. For example, your methods seem to be woefully slapdash. You cannot make soap like you would season a dish. "I'll chuck in some of this and a bit of that and see what happens". It just doesn't work that way at all.

For example, freezing to cut it will only work if it will also firm up on its own. You can freeze water, cut it and then you'll have puddles again one it melts. If your soap is not going to firm up well, freezing it to cut it won't solve that at all.

I'll remind YOU that this is a place where you can get advice and help in making soap. But only if you want it and are willing to accept it. If you just want to carry on as you want regardless of advice, you will find that people will stop trying to help and spend their time more effectively.

 

[Susie]

Origo-I am the last person to tell folks to throw batches away. But you need to throw that away and start from scratch with a recipe you have run through a lye calculator and weighed out carefully.

Soapmaking is a science first. You must have X amount of lye to saponify Y amount of oil. If you have too much lye, you have a product that is not safe to use. That rule does not change.

I am glad to see you using gloves and glasses, but please use safety goggles of some sort. That stick blender can fling drops right up under those glasses. I ended up with a lye burn on my eyelid that scared me enough to get safety goggles. You can get some for $1 at Dollar Tree.

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

I will also add that your mask protects from dust but not fumes and gasses - so it's really not helping in any way but rather will give a false sense of security which could lead to more issues.

 

[shunt2011]

Origo, we are all very willing to help as long as you are willing to listen.

As stated, soapmaking is scientific and requires measuring accurately as well as using a lye calculator. Even if you can get what you've made to look like soap, chances are it's going to be dangerous for someone to use.
THROW IT AWAY. Check out the links that many have posted and do some reading. Then if you have questions, please feel free to ask. But as TEG stated if you refuse to listen to the advice being given many will just stop.

 

[dixiedragon]

Origo, you can't just throw stuff in a pot and hope it works out. Unless you know EXACTLY (within a few grams) how much lye, water and oil you've got in that batch, you have NO IDEA if that stuff is safe. Unless you can back-track your process to calculate how much of each ingredient you used, you need to start over.

 

[Dahila]

BTW guys when you mix soap are you doing it under the hood with ventilation on full? I do not use masks, only when I am working with SCI or Sles, powder form.....
Orgio you are being arrogant , and this forum and people do not deserve it .
I could be your mom, My oldest child is 35 already, so think please.

 

[OliveOil2]

Orgio I think you are enjoying the reaction you are receiving, and there is a good reason that your 'Bad Soap' smelled like Hell. There are plenty of good recipes,and many here would be glad to make suggestions on a real recipe that has been run through a lye calculator. if you choose to improvise the way you are doing, there is nothing anyone here can do to help you. Bottom line you need to use a digital scale, and a lye calculator, and if you choose not to do so you are being extremely careless.

 

[Seawolfe]

Its not an experiment if you have no record of what you are doing or the exact amounts you are using. Your method is just playing with hazmat.

 

[not_ally]

Origo, sorry if we thought you were a troll - I admit, I did too, because I have never seen a post involving not measuring and then just kind of adding as you go along.

You got some spectacularly bad advice before you made it, if it involved making cp/hp of any kind w/out using a lye calculator, that is crazy and (IMO, verging on criminally negligent, a disaster waiting to happen.) I would discard it ENTIRELY (both the advice and the soap) and start over. I am a fellow newbie, and not a natural/prodigy like some (cough, Sonya , so I hope you take this input in the spirit of newb good fellowship in which it is offered. Maybe you already know/have this stuff, if so, just disregard.

What you need right now: a reasonably good digital scale is indispensable (you can get an Ozeri on Amazon for less than $20, but it is a non-negotiable (plus you can use it for measuring food.) As Susie and others have said, some safety goggles - I bought some fancy onion ones and then found out that I liked my $1.00 store ones better

A whisk, and if possible, a stick blender. I am really picky about these, so mine are Cuisinarts with detachable metal shanks b/c I like the fact that the shanks are stainless steel and easy to clean, but they are a bit expensive if you are just trying this out and not sure if you want to continue. Maybe others will chip in w/suggestions about good cheap ones, also I know I have seen threads about this. I know some folks have picked them up at Goodwill, other second hand places/yard sales, etc. You can live w/o the SB, especially if you are using a quick tracing oil mix, but mine is slow so it would take quite a while to trace if I didn't alternate stirring/whisking/SB'ing.

I *wanted* to start with a slow-tracing mix b/c I was really afraid of what I'd read about the dreading accelaration/seizing/ricing factors. It was actually kind of good to do the first several batches using mostly a whisk so I could figure out what it meant for the oils to emulsify/go into slow and then faster trace. Once I did, I liked having the flexibility of the SB, to move things along, though.

A good simple recipe - many suggest starting with some kind of split of what soapmakers call "the trinity" - historically olive, coconut and palm. Not sure if you are opposed to using animal fats, but many on this board - including me - love lard, it creates a beautiful, white, creamy lathered and moisturizing bar. Susie often recommends this recipe for beginners, and I loved it, although I am starting to up the lard!:

Lard 55%
Coconut Oil 20%
Olive Oil 20%
Castor Oil 5%

You really did get some bad advice starting out, I hope you will stick around and take advantage of some of the good stuff on this thread. This is such a great hobby for someone like me, it pays for itself in droves in terms of fun, experimentation, and personal satisfaction.

 

[dixiedragon]

Origo, you still haven't answered questions about the lye. Can you post a pic? I just don't think it's possible to combine lye (meaning sodium hydroxide) and water and not get heat. I am very concerned you used some type of non-lye drain cleaner. Red Devil used to be lye, and now it's not, but I can see a soaper reading an older article or blog post and picking up a can of Red Devil without reading the ingredients.

 

[Sonya-m]

Until the OP decides to use some sense and throw this mess out, research and develop an accurately measured recipe I don't think there's anymore we can do to help.

I'm shocked at the whole throwing this in, adding a bit of the other etc - no respect at all for the care and attention to detail that's needed each and every time you make soap

 

[Sonya-m]

I am a fellow newbie, and not a natural/prodigy like some (cough, Sonya

I'm just a perfectionist and plan everything as much as I can (obviously if a new FO decides not to play nice no amount of planning helps)

 

[not_ally]

I am curious to see if the OP answers. I am still willing to give him the benefit of the doubt, if he is real he is a non-native speaker (I did not catch that the first time round and would have been more clear with my answers if I had) and maybe found some bad soap making sites, or misread them, which could happen to anyone.

If that is the case, Origo, I hope you will stay and learn, there is a *lot* to be learned here. Also, if that is true, ask for explanations, always, if an answer does not make sense to you. That is the very best way to find things out, and makes you seem smart rather than the opposite.

If not, I think the hoax theory will be confirmed. And will wish I had not spent so much time typing out that long boring post to those of you guys who already know about it. Also, it would make me feel like a sucker for believing it, I never lie (would if I could, but my trembling lips and facial tics give me away And hate it when people make me feel that way.

 

[origo]

Ok so if you add too much lye then the soap will burn your hands when you use it.
But if you add too much oils then shouldn't the lye combine with SOME of the oils then you drain the excessive oils and voila you have good soap ?

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

Not always.

Please, stop - look at the thread about using a lye calculator and give it a try. It's not that hard but keeps things easier to manage, no more having to add more of this because it needs it.

I seriously don't know where you got this foundation from, but it is not good at all.

Eta - how would drain the oils?