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Conditioner bar recipe with BTMS-50

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Stuart Graham

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Hi,

I want to try conditioner bars and looking around, I found two versions:

30gr | 30% BMTS-50
30gr | 30% Cetyl alcohol
15gr | 15% shea butter
15gr | 15% cocoa butter
4.5gr | 4.5% distilled water
1.0gr | 1% essential oil

40gr | 40% BTMS-50
43gr | 43% cocoa butter
10gr | 10% shea butter
6gr | 6% jojoba oil
40drops | 2% essential oil

The thing is, the author of the second ingredient said it lasts less than a non-solid conditioner. The problem is I can't find an open supplier of glass or metal cans (due to lockdown, or I'm bad searching online).
I'd go for the first, what do you think?
 

Stuart Graham

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There is one more recipe: Solid conditioner bars
BTMS is 25 and I have 50 so I guess I can use half of the original proportion and fill the rest with Cetly alcohol?
I decided to replace castor oil for cocoa butter. Still the price for 100 grams is quite high. I wonder how many washes would it last?
I don´t have coco-caprylate, silk protein and provitamin... so maybe discard them altogether

30 grams BTMS-50
40 grams cetyl-alcohol
10 grams cocoa butter
10 grams glycerin
1/2 teaspoon coco-caprylate
1/2 teaspoon hydrolysed silk protein
1/2 teaspoon provitamin B5
20 drops essential oil


isopropyl alcohol to kill bubbles
 

DeeAnna

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"...BTMS is 25 and I have 50 so I guess I can use half of the original proportion and fill the rest with Cetly alcohol? ..."

Unless you have experience to prove this is a good method of substitution, I personally would not change the % emulsifier called for in the recipe even for flowable lotions/conditioners. Conditioner bars are less finicky than lotions. For the first run, I'd just make the recipe as written except substitute the BTMS you have.

I also suggest converting all measurements to weight-based. Measurements as "1/2 tsp" of this and "20 drops" of that will not be helpful if you want to resize the recipe someday.

If you have coarse curly hair that responds well to fats, you might be okay with the one recipe that's got almost 60% fat. But if your hair is fine, I don't think you'll like that one at all -- you will want a formulation that has more oil-free conditioners (the BTMS and cetyl alcohol) and less fat.

Here is the latest formulation I've been using for my after-shower conditioner/lotion bar. I have fine, wavy hair that gets frizzy in humid weather.

Solid conditioner bar
All ingredient amounts are % by weight

Liquid oil … 15% … Avocado, meadowfoam, almond, etc.
Solid fat … 10 … Shea butter, cocoa butter, tallow, palm, mango butter, etc.

Hemisqualane … 10 … Defrizzing agent. Silicone alternative. Can sub any silicone suitable as a defrizzing ingredient, but check the usage info for suggested amounts. Optional. If omitting this, add a total of 10% to the emulsifier and/or thickener.

Conditioning emulsifier … 50 … Emulsifier. Oil free conditioner. BTMS is a brand name product
Cetyl alcohol … 10 … Thickener. Oil free conditioner. Alternate is stearic acid -- harder bar, more draggy feel

Colorant … 1 drop of ultramarine blue pigment mixed with glycerin (or equivalent) per 100 grams of product. Optional.
Panthenol … 3 … Reduces scalp itching, adds shine and strength to hair. Optional.
Phenonip … 0.5 … Or other oil-soluble preservative. *
Fragrance … 1.5 … Essential oil or fragrance oil. Don't overdo -- keep it light! Optional.

Total … 100%

* Phenonip is not temperature sensitive so it can be added with the other main ingredients. If you use another preservative, be sure to check the usage instructions -- if it is temp sensitive, then it has to be added with the fragrance when the temp drops to a safe level.

Mix all ingredients except fragrance (and temp-sensitive preservative, if using). Warm in microwave in 15-30 second bursts, stirring after each heating period until emulsifier and solid oil are fully melted and colorant (if using) is even and the sticky mixture is smooth with no lumps. Pour into small molds and let cool. To unmold, chill in the refrigerator for 1/2 hour or more and pop the bars out.

To use as a hair conditioner, rub lightly over wet hair and work the product into the hair strands. You can rinse lightly to remove some of the conditioner or you can just towel dry your hair to leave more of the conditioner. You can also use this product as a light skin lotion -- rub it over wet skin and lightly towel dry.

I recommend making 100 grams for a test batch. Any less and it's hard to measure accurately unless you have a really good scale. Any more and you may be stuck with a bunch of product you don't like -- 100 grams lasts me a LONG time.
 

aprice522

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I have started to use a Etsy purchased conditioner bar and shampoo. I am a regular soaper, so I have some of the ingredients. It was really expensive for some really small product and would like to try and make my own things. I have been reading and reading and in the beginning of my search and interest...year or more ago (or even more!) but got discouraged when I couldn't find easily ingredients or understand what they were.
Today I was looking up basic lotion bar to make some (cracked heels need it!) and now I am waiting for them to harden and was browsing the site a little more and found your post....

I would like to try this since I have several of these ingredients.

Solid conditioner bar
All ingredient amounts are % by weight

HAVE--Liquid oil … 15% … Avocado, meadowfoam, almond, etc.
HAVE--Solid fat … 10 … Shea butter, cocoa butter, tallow, palm, mango butter, etc.

DON"T HAVE--Hemisqualane … 10 … Defrizzing agent. Silicone alternative. Can sub any silicone suitable as a defrizzing ingredient, but check the usage info for suggested amounts. Optional. If omitting this, add a total of 10% to the emulsifier and/or thickener.

Don't Have--Conditioning emulsifier … 50 … Emulsifier. Oil free conditioner. BTMS is a brand name product
HAVE stearic acid due to making shave soap--Cetyl alcohol … 10 … Thickener. Oil free conditioner. Alternate is stearic acid -- harder bar, more draggy feel

don't care--Colorant … 1 drop of ultramarine blue pigment mixed with glycerin (or equivalent) per 100 grams of product. Optional.
Don't HAVE--Panthenol … 3 … Reduces scalp itching, adds shine and strength to hair. Optional.
Don't HAVE--Phenonip … 0.5 … Or other oil-soluble preservative. *
HAVE--Fragrance … 1.5 … Essential oil or fragrance oil. Don't overdo -- keep it light! Optional.


So--I have the basics, I feel I might need the HEMISQUALANE because I am a frizzy head person...
I need Conditioning emulsifier --BTMS
Panthenol and Phenonip I would get too...

NOW--for my actual question--
So is there a good place to purchase all 4 of these at a decent price in the US? Sourcing was what stopped me last time and scares me with solid shampoo...but I feel I might be able to do make this conditioner bar!
 

atiz

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I would say you definitely need some BTMS (25 or 50, although they are not interchangeable), because you simply cannot make a conditioner bar without it. (There are some alternatives, but BTMS is nice and easy.) You also need a preservative; I tend to use optiphen, but phenonip should be a good alternative.
The others.... are nice, but optional.

I think I got all this stuff (and more) at lotioncrafter.com. It's not super cheap, but their shipping is not outrageous, and they carry most that you will ever need for these things. Also, most of these things go a long way. I have just run out of the pack of BTMS that I got a couple of years ago.
 
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