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Soapsense

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Hello, I have a group of friends that we always exchange homemade gifts, and I always give soap. So this year I
decided to make some container candles for them instead. I read here and watched a bunch of youtube videos but there is alot of
conflicting info out there :( So these are just for gifts, but want to make sure I have the basics right so please let me know if anything
I plan on doing is wrong!! I bought EcoSoya CB 135, 8oz. square mason jars and pewter screw lids, warning labels, the recommended wick
for the container and wax per Wholesale supplies (simple soy wick 3) assorted candle fragrances and candle block color.
Recipe:
8oz wax
.5 oz fragrance (1 tbsp.)
coloring to suit
Plan on sticking the wick with E-6000(as I already had it), melt wax in a pyrex measuring cup, either in double boiler or microwave to temp of about 175
add coloring, then fragrance. Meantime preheat jars in warm oven, let wax cool stirring occasionally to 115 then pour SLOWLY, center the wick with clothespin
and Popsicle stick. let cool, remelt top with heatgun if needed, then add labels.
Is anything wrong? Or is there a better way? Any advice greatly appreciated.
 
You might like to read the Q and A below from a candle webpage I copied. I use Advanced Soy Wax for containers I haven't tried this one.

Q. Is CB-135 the best choice for making container candles.

A. Not necessarily. It can be prone to frosting or surface defects particularly when adding colour to your candles. Its a great wax for the hobbyist at home with a very good scent throw from a 100% natural Wax. If you will be selling your candles and want a good surface finish then you would definitely use the Advanced soy wax which is the preferred choice of the major candle manufacturers around the world.

Q. What is the melting and pouring temperature?

A. You should melt the wax up to and between 70-80 degrees Celsius, this can vary depending on your pouring temperature. The wax has a pouring temp between 50-70 degrees Celsius. We suggest doing a few small tests pouring in 5 degree implements starting with 50, 55, 60, 65 degrees Celsius. This way you will be able to work out what is working best for the room and conditions you are in.

Q. At what temperature should i add colour and fragrance?

A. You should add any fragrance and colour about 10 degrees hotter then what you are planning to pour at and gently stir everything together.

Q. What fragrance loading should I put in a candle?

A. For the fragrance loading, we recommend between 8-10% per 100 grams of wax for the fragrance oils and about 6% for the essential oils.

PALM STEARIC ACID - The highest quality triple pressed and filtered, natural palm stearic acid.This additive is used widely in the candle industry for many reasons, but mainly to allow a higher fragrance loading, reduce sweating and also to harden the natural wax of Soy Wax....The typical usge is between 1 and 3% volume so for example you would use 10 to 30 grams of Palm Stearic Acid per 1000 grams of wax. If using in excess of 1 to 3% this this can have an effect of a reduction in Fragrance release in both hot and cold throw. Finally we advise that Palm Stearic Acid should not be needed in most circumstances, so only try this if you are experiencing issues with sweating in hot climates. Also please note it is best to melt your palm stearic acid with your wax and melt to at least 80 degrees Celcius and mix together really well. You can then add your colour and fragrance before pouring.
 
My favorite pour pot is a Hunts spaghetti sauce can, well cleaned, label removed and one side of the top bent into a pour spout. Allows you to do about a pound worth of wax. I like the control smaller batches give me with pouring and temp.
Then use an old sauce pan you don't want to cook in again...and make a double boiler..my sauce pan holds two of these cans at one time.

It's been awhile since I poured that wax..I use a different one..but I only heat my wax until it's melted and all liquid..removed from the pan and immediately pour in my fragrance. I don't know if candle wax should actually be nuked, it's not a even heating. While I've never heard of it going "wrong"..I think the even melting of a water bath, helps with frosting for sure.

Please if you can weigh out your wax and fragrance. You get a more consistent product. Each fragrance oil weighs differently and candles is about ratio.

And before you make up the whole lot..make one...and burn it in your own home after a minimum of 12 hours cure time.

The cans above will give you 2 jars and a bit.. For that 8 oz jar I like about 6 and half to 7 ounces of scented wax.

I don't color my candles on a regular basis....but after the FO is well blended into the wax..a good 10 11 stirs..then add in a bit of color. There is no need to wait to add either for the wax to cool some.

If you let most soys get to just start to thicken with a little bit of solid stirred off the sides..I think you get the best even pour. Now some oils will cause a frosting reaction too. Don't know why..but you have to experiment and see which oils do it..and some I like to let get to slushy before I pour..Once you have to heat the tops to "smooth" you are going to activate frosting faster too.

I stir maybe for times in the cooling down process and give it a good stir just before going into the container.

I don't think stearic is necessary for container candles at all..it does help in a soy pillar..but pretty much a waste in containers.
 
I've been making candles for years and have never had goodluck with microwaving the wax. The best method is putting your pour pot in a water bath or double broiler. Stir slowly to prevent air bubbles and pour slowly. Save enough wax to cover the well created as it hardens. If you do not have enough wax simply use a heat gun (most of us have these left over from card making or stamping in scrap booking lol). Once you've done container candles check out making votive candles inside the paper dixie cups for the bathroom. They are super fun and you can give an assortment. I usually pair these with an inexpensive votive holders from dollar tree or craft store. Hope this helps, have fun with it!
 
No need to preheat your jars either...

I only preheat my votive molds...never anything for container wax.
 
CB 135 is a horrible wax...sorry it just is. I could barely get a throw in it after 5 years.

It burns nice though with CD wicks.

You definitely want to use 1oz PP of wax if not 1.5 depending.

I would let it cool also to about 90-100. It should make it smoother.

Though after the first burn that wax and most soys won't be smooth anyway. They are cottage cheesy- just the nature of soy.

For future reference- I would try out other soys that are around. CB 135 is ok for tarts but that's about it.
 
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