Very new soap maker wannabee

Soapmaking Forum

Help Support Soapmaking Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SmellyKat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2010
Messages
183
Reaction score
0
Haven't made any soap yet because I am still learning and researching.
I read on this Forum a gentlemen using the oils you can get from a grocery store. (Olive Oil, Coconut Oil, etc.) I am assuming we can use those oils in the store???
I plan on buying a 3 lb or 4 lb wooden loaf box for the mold. Then I look at recipes and have no idea how much soap they actually make! Not enough for the mold? Too much for the mold??
I will using the CP method. And definitely EO's.
See, I have the verbage down and feel better already!! haha

Kathie
 
Welcome! I believe what you are looking for is Paul's Wal-Mart Soap Recipe:

soapmakerman said:
30% Coconut Oil
25% Crisco
23% Olive Oil (lightest they have)
10% Canola Oil
7% Safflower Oil
5% Castor Oil

Give it a good cure time to harden up well. You can take a modest water discount. I'd soap it at a 33% lye solution. You can also use Wal-Mart's brand Pre-Creamed animal fats shortening also. The above recipe is all veggie, but I like using the Pre-Creamed shortening. Use 25% of this instead of the Crisco. It will be a firmer bar, too.

Run through a online soap calculator like this one;

http://www.soapcalc.com/calc/soapcalcWP.asp

Paul.....

My veeeerry basic but pretty darn decent recipe is also made of things you can get entirely at Walmart:

50% Lard
30% Coconut
15% Olive
5% Castor*

5% superfat/lye disco



When a recipe says it makes "2 pounds" or "4 pounds" or whatevs, they are almost always referring to the amount of oils in the recipe. A "2 pound" recipe will be 32 oz of oil, plus the appropriate amount of water and lye and additives. Check out this cool sticky - it will help you figure out of if a mold is big enough** for your recipe:

How to figure how much oil for mold

*Castor can be found in the pharmacy with the laxatives.

**a mold being too big can cause you headaches too!

GOOD LUCK and happy soaping!!
 
Hi and welcome! You can figure out much soap to make for your mold here http://soapmakingforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3461

And yes, you can make a wonderful soap with lard, olive, castor and even cocoa butter. I found some cocoa butter sticks at walgreens on sale for $.75 each (1 oz). Not bad to just play around with.

I would start with 1 lb soap batches. Thay way if you mess something up, you won't have wasted all of those oils! :shock:

For cheap beginner molds people use pvc, pringle cans, milk cartains, yogurt containers, lined boxes, lined drawers...really there are a lot of options.

Good luck!
 
agriffin said:
I would start with 1 lb soap batches. Thay way if you mess something up, you won't have wasted all of those oils! :shock:

SmellyKat, heed the words of The Wise One...! Just measure carefully - little batches are not as forgiving of errors.
 
Best Natural Soap said:
Welcome to your new addiction!!!

And, welcome to the greatest place ever to support you in it!
:)

WOW, thanks for all the support already!! And the mold ideas are great!
Where are you from in MD? I was born on the Eastern Shore and all my siblings currently live there. I am in AZ.

I also make wines from wine kits. I have a beloved wine forum that helped me along the way. I think I have just found my soap forum. :)
Kathie

ChrisShepp said:
Welcome! I believe what you are looking for is Paul's Wal-Mart Soap Recipe:

soapmakerman said:
30% Coconut Oil
25% Crisco
23% Olive Oil (lightest they have)
10% Canola Oil
7% Safflower Oil
5% Castor Oil

Give it a good cure time to harden up well. You can take a modest water discount. I'd soap it at a 33% lye solution. You can also use Wal-Mart's brand Pre-Creamed animal fats shortening also. The above recipe is all veggie, but I like using the Pre-Creamed shortening. Use 25% of this instead of the Crisco. It will be a firmer bar, too.

Run through a online soap calculator like this one;

http://www.soapcalc.com/calc/soapcalcWP.asp

Paul.....

My veeeerry basic but pretty darn decent recipe is also made of things you can get entirely at Walmart:

50% Lard
30% Coconut
15% Olive
5% Castor*

5% superfat/lye disco



When a recipe says it makes "2 pounds" or "4 pounds" or whatevs, they are almost always referring to the amount of oils in the recipe. A "2 pound" recipe will be 32 oz of oil, plus the appropriate amount of water and lye and additives. Check out this cool sticky - it will help you figure out of if a mold is big enough** for your recipe:

How to figure how much oil for mold

*Castor can be found in the pharmacy with the laxatives.

**a mold being too big can cause you headaches too!

GOOD LUCK and happy soaping!!

I have no idea what a "water discount" means. :(
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Let's look at the difference between a water discount and a lye discount:

- a water discount means that you use less water than the recipe calls for. Most recipes call for an amount of water that is around 32-38% of the total weight of the recipe. Leaving out some of the water can result in a bar that cures harder, faster - BUT the trade off is a water discount can affect the outcome of the recipe. I wouldn't recommend playing with water discounts until you get a bit of experience and can consistently produce your recipe with good results. (Edit to add: you would purposely discount some water if you were going to use another liquid such as goat's milk or coconut milk. Example: if you wanted to do a 50% goat's milk, you would purposely leave out 50% of the water the recipe called for because you are replacing it with the GM. But milk recipes are a totally different animal so let's ignore those for now!)

- a lye discount refers to the amount of oil that is not converted to soap by the lye. For example, a 5% lye discount means that 5% of the total oils will be left unsaponified. We do this on purpose - for two reasons: first, if you mismeasure a bit, it gives you a margin for error. If you were to use a 0% lye discount (also called 'Full SAP') and had even just a teensy bit of unreacted lye, the finished soap would be 'lye heavy' and could do anything from irritating your skin, to causing a rash, to causing outright chemical burns. Second, having the little bit of oil left over makes a bar that is less likely to strip your skin totally bare of its natural oils, and it is less likely to be too drying. Most soaps should fall into the 4-8% lye discount range with a few exceptions. Any higher and you risk the DOS - dreaded orange spots that form when the leftover oil goes rancid. Or you might just have oily/greasy soap! Yucky!

My personal 'Walmart' recipe calls for a 5% lye discount. Like I said before, I wouldn't take a water discount on any recipe until you know how it behaves and you can reproduce it consistently.

Have you played with a soap calculator? www.soapcalc.net is my favorite. Check out their tutorial.

Note: "Lye Discount" and "Superfat" do not mean exactly the same thing, but they are used fairly interchangeably. You'll see the term "Superfat" a lot more often.

HTH!
 
ChrisShepp said:
Let's look at the difference between a water discount and a lye discount:

- a water discount means that you use less water than the recipe calls for. Most recipes call for an amount of water that is around 32-38% of the total weight of the recipe. Leaving out some of the water can result in a bar that cures harder, faster - BUT the trade off is a water discount can affect the outcome of the recipe. I wouldn't recommend playing with water discounts until you get a bit of experience and can consistently produce your recipe with good results. (Edit to add: you would purposely discount some water if you were going to use another liquid such as goat's milk or coconut milk. Example: if you wanted to do a 50% goat's milk, you would purposely leave out 50% of the water the recipe called for because you are replacing it with the GM. But milk recipes are a totally different animal so let's ignore those for now!)

- a lye discount refers to the amount of oil that is not converted to soap by the lye. For example, a 5% lye discount means that 5% of the total oils will be left unsaponified. We do this on purpose - for two reasons: first, if you mismeasure a bit, it gives you a margin for error. If you were to use a 0% lye discount (also called 'Full SAP') and had even just a teensy bit of unreacted lye, the finished soap would be 'lye heavy' and could do anything from irritating your skin, to causing a rash, to causing outright chemical burns. Second, having the little bit of oil left over makes a bar that is less likely to strip your skin totally bare of its natural oils, and it is less likely to be too drying. Most soaps should fall into the 4-8% lye discount range with a few exceptions. Any higher and you risk the DOS - dreaded orange spots that form when the leftover oil goes rancid. Yucky!

My personal 'Walmart' recipe calls for a 5% lye discount. Like I said before, I wouldn't take a water discount on any recipe until you know how it behaves and you can reproduce it consistently.

Have you played with a soap calculator? www.soapcalc.net is my favorite. Check out their tutorial.

Note: "Lye Discount" and "Superfat" do not mean exactly the same thing, but they are used fairly interchangeably. You'll see the term "Superfat" a lot more often.

HTH!

Did I mention that I am severly math challenged?? haha Seriously, I need a software caculator to use for ALL soap recipes or I cannot effectively make soap.
Kathie
 
Join my club! :lol:

I can tell you, virtually nobody calculates out their recipes by hand. We almost all use a soap calculator without exeption - it's just way to fast and easy. At www.soapcalc.net, they have it defaulted to a 5% lye discount already. It can also help you in developing a recipe because it can help* predict the qualities of the finished product.

*SoapCalc's numbers should be taken with a grain of salt, as it does not figure the lye discount into that prediction, and soapmaking is not always a concrete thing!
 
WELCOME ! - I never did think anything could keep me off facebook until I found this Forum....... now I dream about things I want to try next :)
 
this is super helpful-I am also a newbie!!

SO i got a few molds that are "individual" molds....I had wanted a log mold, but have to wait. Any advice on how I can do CP with small molds?
 
NEW

I am also new at this and I think I will try to make my first loaf tonight. Just plain OO loaf. My other supplies come later this week so I do not have much on hand. I could not find coconat oil anywhere here...ugh....so my choices are limited.
 
BJBJ,

Same way you do with a log mold, its just that easy. The only issue you might run into is the gel/no gel/partial gel dilemma. It is hard to get individual molds to gel, if that is what you want.

When using individual molds, I soap cool (90ish) and do not insulate - just cover with saran wrap to prevent ash. The soap will need to sit a bit longer than normal - say about 48 to 60 hours before you unmold because it will be a bit softer at first.

In case you are not familiar with gel...it gets asked a lot. When your soap is going through the chemical reaction of saponification, the soap molecules are arranged in a matrix, like a crystal at first. As the reaction progresses, heat builds up. If enough heat builds up to force the soap into 'gel' phase, the soap molecules begin to rearrange their structure - more like a layer cake. The soap takes on a wet, vaseline-like apppearance and jelly consistency and gets VERY hot, perhaps upwards of 185 F. Eventually, the reaction slows and the soap cools. The soap molecules get 'stuck' in their new arrangement. The dilemma is when there is not enough heat to force the whole mass through gel and you get a partial gel. The gelled portion is a bit more translucent and glassy looking, while the ungelled remains opaque and matte looking. It takes a bit of talent to either force complete gel or avoid it completely; though the difference is aesthetic only. Gelled soap holds up a bit better to moisture. But in the end, gelled/ungelled is nothing more than preference - both are good soap.

Re: NEW

dubnica said:
I am also new at this and I think I will try to make my first loaf tonight. Just plain OO loaf. My other supplies come later this week so I do not have much on hand. I could not find coconat oil anywhere here...ugh....so my choices are limited.

Dubnica,

Can you get to a Walmart? They sell Coconut oil there in the baking aisle with the other oils. The brand is 'Lou Ana' and it is a yellow/white plastic 2 pound canister.

Anything you find at a real grocery store will be horridly overpriced.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yeah you can definitely use oils from the grocery store. For my first batch I would start with 100% olive oil soap, super easy to make and a very gentle soap! And the ingredients are easy to find! Good luck, I'm glad you're enjoying the forum so far, the people here have been wonderful to me as well.
 
="SmellyKat]
Best Natural Soap said:
Where are you from in MD? I was born on the Eastern Shore and all my siblings currently live there. I am in AZ.

I'm currently in Hagerstown- 30 minutes west of Frederick- but lived in Germantown and Damascus before that...
I grew up in Ann Arbor MI, but have been in MD since getting married in '96.

-just nosey, but which wine forum is your favorite? My cousin owns a couple wine/beer making stores in michigan and belongs to several forums. His company is Adventures In Home Brewing (http://homebrewing.org). If I didn't already make soap, I'd definitely try wine making!! :)
 
My Walmart does not have anything...its not the kind that have all the groceries, only a few. Bummer.
 
Welcome, SmellyKat! Sorry to be so late in saying hello....I've been dealing with soaping challenges this week.

Since you're in San Diego, is there a Whole Foods? Costs more, but you can find what you want to experiment with there before making a larger purchase.

Have fun!
 
I couldn't find coconut at the grocery store, but was able to find it at a "Healthway Nutrition" store (similar to a GNC sort of place...).

Castor is EXPENSIVE in the store!! Mine was $5.75 for 4 oz!!

If you're considering making more than just a batch, I would suggest ordering a few "staples" from a place like Wholesale Supplies Plus. You'll spend less than the grocery store route- and will have the quantity needed to play around a bit.
Maybe start with a small palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, and a couple FO's or EO's.
 
I placed my order with Wholesale supplies for all the oils I cannot find localy and they should be here on Friday. It is hard to wait but I will wait till I get it. I made my log mold today but I think it is too big (18x4) I think I will make another one tomorrow...lol just 10x4
I WANT TO MAKE SOAP ALREADY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Back
Top