Stearic acid

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@ ResolvableOwl. I tried my coffee soap. ..the soap was fine but the white spots of static acid which I did not check have given me a skin burn .. when I did the zap test on the spot. It zapped me. . , 😐. Now sitting and grating the whole batch and will rebatch it.
@ ResolvableOwl. I tried my coffee soap. ..the soap was fine but the white spots of static acid which I did not check have given me a skin burn .. when I did the zap test on the spot. It zapped me. . , 😐. Now sitting and grating the whole batch and will rebatch it.
I have a doubt. ..can I use this grated soap in a new soap batter ? I have grated it v v thin
 

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From the soapmaking technique, it should be fine to re-use (in HP) – heat up some of the batch water (without lye) and stir the gratings in, before adding the lye + other oils. Kind of a combined rebatching + HP.

What makes this questionable: you've said it's lye-heavy. You can't know how much lye-heavy it is, so you have to guess how much less lye you're adding to your soap, to compensate for the extra lye that is coming from the grated stearic blobs. Otherwise the resulting soap could be lye-heavy again (or have excessive superfat).

ETA: That's actually a pointer to what to make without too much risk: you could use 100% coconut oil (20% superfat) for the new soap. Then it doesn't matter too much if the final soap might have 16% or 23% superfat – unlike normal recipes, where -3% is terrible, and 8% not great either.
 
From the soapmaking technique, it should be fine to re-use (in HP) – heat up some of the batch water (without lye) and stir the gratings in, before adding the lye + other oils. Kind of a combined rebatching + HP.

What makes this questionable: you've said it's lye-heavy. You can't know how much lye-heavy it is, so you have to guess how much less lye you're adding to your soap, to compensate for the extra lye that is coming from the grated stearic blobs. Otherwise the resulting soap could be lye-heavy again (or have excessive superfat).

ETA: That's actually a pointer to what to make without too much risk: you could use 100% coconut oil (20% superfat) for the new soap. Then it doesn't matter too much if the final soap might have 16% or 23% superfat – unlike normal recipes, where -3% is terrible, and 8% not great either.
That is a brilliant idea.. thank you. Will update..coz now thestearic acid blobs r grated v fine .
 
That's a good start. Wait with adding the fresh oils until the stearic gratings have fully dissolved, otherwise you'd have the same issue again 😒.
 
Gotcha👍 I probably shouldn’t have specified CP, as I have never added it to HP either (other than shave soaps).

Using stearic acid in HP soap is not reserved only for shave soaps. I used it in HP soaps in the past to create harder bars of soap. For the non-animal fat soaper, a small percentage of stearic acid helps create a harder bar. A few soapers on youtube add stearic acid to their soaps that do not include animal fats and even some who do. Even SoapQueen suggests adding 0.5% to CP soap to create a harder longer-lasting bar of soap. (link)
 
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