Shampoo help?

[FlybyStardancer]

So, I'm trying to formulate a shampoo bar, loosely based off of Genny's here, so high conditioning and no cleansing.

I have long, dry, dirty blond hair with curls on the underside and waves on top. For additives, I'm thinking of infusing chamomile, lemon, and maybe calendula into the oils, and making a marshmallow root tea for the water. There would also be honey (sugar for bubbles, and honey's good for hair) and citric acid (with an increase in lye to balance it out, to act as a chelating agent to balance out my super-hard water).

I'm starting out with a 500g recipe for a trial run, just to see how it does. However, I'm not entirely sure what I want to do for the oils! Other than the oils in these variations, I also have coconut oil, canola oil, and mango butter to play with.

Also, would some kind of water discount be helpful with getting the bars to firm up? How much?

Any help is appreciated!

 

[LupitaTX]

You can discount your water up 33%- 38% its all about personal preference i usually go for 35% water discount

Mayybe do a 5-9% coconut oil for cleansing and mango butter is awesome.

 

[FlybyStardancer]

Would that involve setting the lye calculators to 35% instead of the default 38%?

I initially thought about including some coconut oil, but looking through the thread it seemed like those with dry hair didn't really benefit from it in the soap--too cleansing. I did start doing twice-weekly overnight treatments in my hair with coconut oil, and my hair is certainly benefiting from it!

Mango butter had me curious (I bought some to make lip balm with, and still have quite a bit left). It seemed a lot like shea butter, but I hadn't seen it mentioned with hair.

(And yesterday I rubbed a tiny bit of my lotion bar in before styling it... My hair hasn't been this soft in a long time!)