I generally soak my brushes before use, getting rid of a little or a lot depending on the brush itself. Lack of water is not a problem doing it that way with these KOH-only soaps
My first shaving soap is a success!
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I usually soak my brush, too. But, on that video, I was so nervous, I forgot about it.
Then again, the lather was great. This is the best lather so far.
Is it ok to formulate the lanolin as a superfat knowing that it iontains a very small amount of saponifiables? The Silver Fox recipe calls for the 5% superfat to be made up of shea and lanolin. Could i superfat with 5% shea butter and still add the lanolin? I think it's something i am missing here...
LBussy
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I run it all through the calculator so that it balances. I reserve a portion of the shea and lanolin till the end so that I know it is my super fat.
Basically always use the calculator (or do it by hand I guess) and you'll be fine.
Basically always use the calculator (or do it by hand I guess) and you'll be fine.
I made the recipe and the soap leave a stick sensation on my skin (i didn't lather it yet, but i wash my hands with it), like lanolin does, or other kind of wax. I am pretty sure i measured the lanolin and the shea exactly, with my precision scale. What could be the issue?
LE: i did a palm lather for testing purpose and it did made a great looking lather, but after i wash it off the skin has a lot of grip when i rub my hands together.
LE: i did a palm lather for testing purpose and it did made a great looking lather, but after i wash it off the skin has a lot of grip when i rub my hands together.
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LBussy
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If you did the same recipe, 100% KOH, I would say you might want to let the soap cure a bit. Even though it's zap-free right after the cook it does benefit from at least a week of curing. I've only noted "stickiness" when cleaning my pots after the cook.
The only other thing I can think of is that KOH soaps are VERY thirsty compared to one with NaOH. Using it like a bar would end up using much more soap than I use to shave with. That could lead to that sensation.
I give my brush 20 light-ish turns on the soap and then go to the bowl. It does not look like a lot of soap but I make sure there's at least a tablespoon of water in the bowl when I start to work up the lather. After a minute I get a nice yogurty lather that is perfect to shave with.
I used 100% KOH. As i said, even after the palm lather the skins was sticky, don't know how to explain it. I will cure it and see how it will be. Maybe i will repet another batch to be sure.
What do you think is the mininum concentration of lanolin neede for a good shave? I might replace some of it with some kokum or mango butter... Is this a good idea or doesn't worth the hassle?
What do you think is the mininum concentration of lanolin neede for a good shave? I might replace some of it with some kokum or mango butter... Is this a good idea or doesn't worth the hassle?
The important thing for slickness is the glycerine. Lanolin is for post shave loveliness.
LBussy
Well-Known Member
Lather in a bowl and then use the lather on your skin - see if that makes a difference. I've never palm lathered so I can't really say whether it's odd or not.
I have made the original recipe and know what you mean. It's good shave soap ... but I agree it does leave the skin feeling a little bit "tight". I think men are more sensitive to this than most of us ladies, but I have tried to listen to the "shaver dudes" when they talk about the finer points of wet shaving.
Lee Bussey and The Efficacious Gentleman have suggested using shea and lanolin as the "superfat". That means shea and lanolin are added after the soap is fully cooked so there is no more "zap". I have also tried this and really like how my skin feels after shaving with their modified recipe -- not tight or dry at all.
You could try kneading a little bit of shea or lanolin or both into some of your shave soap and see what you think. The soap is soft and pliable enough that it is reasonable to do this. Based on total oils used to make the soap, try adding about 2.5% shea and 2.5% lanolin.
This type of shave soap works best when made with a hot-process method -- it really does not work with a cold-process method. The stearic acid is the trouble maker.
Lee Bussey and The Efficacious Gentleman have suggested using shea and lanolin as the "superfat". That means shea and lanolin are added after the soap is fully cooked so there is no more "zap". I have also tried this and really like how my skin feels after shaving with their modified recipe -- not tight or dry at all.
You could try kneading a little bit of shea or lanolin or both into some of your shave soap and see what you think. The soap is soft and pliable enough that it is reasonable to do this. Based on total oils used to make the soap, try adding about 2.5% shea and 2.5% lanolin.
This type of shave soap works best when made with a hot-process method -- it really does not work with a cold-process method. The stearic acid is the trouble maker.
What recipe did you use? Include lye(s) and water amounts.
I use hp so I can add some nicer things after saponification has finished. It's also easier with so much sa!
I use hp so I can add some nicer things after saponification has finished. It's also easier with so much sa!
"...If I add, let's say, shea butter not as superfat after the cook, but as one of the oils... does that also give a different post-shave feel? There is a 5% lye discount so some CO and some shea should stay unsaponified......"
It certainly could give a different feel. I don't have personal experience with the difference, however. Perhaps someone else will share their point of view.
"...By doing it CP you can not add shea or whatever as a superfat. If you do so while CP-ing, the shea (as an added superfat) could get saponified during the cure...."
Exactly correct. You can be more confident that certain fats will remain unsaponified if you add those fats after saponification is done.
"...But what if it's already zap proof after adding the SA without cooking? Then you could add the shea/lanolin as a superfat without the danger of getting saponified...."
Again, correct.
To clarify -- the soap doesn't need to be cooked for hours to qualify as "hot process" soap. I don't cook my shave soap much -- maybe 15 minutes after adding the stearic acid. I check for zap at that point. If it is zap free (and it usually is), I add the superfat, fragrance, etc. and pack the soap into a mold or hand form the soap into a long cylinder.
The reason why this kind of shave soap is best made with a hot process method is less about hours of cooking and more about the behavior of the stearic acid. The SA saponifies so fast that it is pretty much done saponifying in a few minutes. This means the soap gets thick very fast, so it is nearly impossible to pour into the mold.
Cold process method works best when the saponification is slow, so the soap batter is still fluid and pourable when you put the soap into the mold.
It certainly could give a different feel. I don't have personal experience with the difference, however. Perhaps someone else will share their point of view.
"...By doing it CP you can not add shea or whatever as a superfat. If you do so while CP-ing, the shea (as an added superfat) could get saponified during the cure...."
Exactly correct. You can be more confident that certain fats will remain unsaponified if you add those fats after saponification is done.
"...But what if it's already zap proof after adding the SA without cooking? Then you could add the shea/lanolin as a superfat without the danger of getting saponified...."
Again, correct.
To clarify -- the soap doesn't need to be cooked for hours to qualify as "hot process" soap. I don't cook my shave soap much -- maybe 15 minutes after adding the stearic acid. I check for zap at that point. If it is zap free (and it usually is), I add the superfat, fragrance, etc. and pack the soap into a mold or hand form the soap into a long cylinder.
The reason why this kind of shave soap is best made with a hot process method is less about hours of cooking and more about the behavior of the stearic acid. The SA saponifies so fast that it is pretty much done saponifying in a few minutes. This means the soap gets thick very fast, so it is nearly impossible to pour into the mold.
Cold process method works best when the saponification is slow, so the soap batter is still fluid and pourable when you put the soap into the mold.
LBussy
Well-Known Member
Yes you can use 100% KOH.
Ivanstein
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My best post shave feel soap is 52% SA, 38% CO, 5% each lanolin and Shea butter. Hot process. Cooked all oils and Shea butter together and added lanolin after the mess cooled a bit. It's a bit more difficult to lather than the SA/CO only soap, but it is a far superior shave soap and leaves the skin very nice.
Ivanstein
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It's noticeable, but well worth the extra 10 seconds of effort.[emoji6]I suppose just a tiny, tiny bit more difficult
I love your packaging!
IrishLass
IrishLass
