I need help with kaolin clay

[DomTheDillyHoo]

Hello! I read somewhere that you should be putting 2/4 grams of kaolin clay per pound of oils (.5 - 1 teaspoon), and you should be mixing kaolin clay with 1 part clay and 1 part water. Lets say for my recipe im adding 8 grams of kaolin clay.. Should I be putting 8 grams of the kaolin clay+water mixture? Or should I be putting 8 grams of kaolin clay + the water?

 

[dibbles]

You would be adding 8 grams of the clay plus whatever amount of water you have reserved to mix it. When I use kaolin it is at a rate of 1 teaspoon per pound of oils. I do disperse it in reserved batch water or oil, but others will mix it with their fragrance/essential oils or add it to their warmed oils and stick blend well to incorporate before adding the lye solution.

 

[DomTheDillyHoo]

You would be adding 8 grams of the clay plus whatever amount of water you have reserved to mix it. When I use kaolin it is at a rate of 1 teaspoon per pound of oils. I do disperse it in reserved batch water or oil, but others will mix it with their fragrance/essential oils or add it to their warmed oils and stick blend well to incorporate before adding the lye solution.

Great, thanks. Do you think I should be using 8 grams of water to put into the kaolin clay too before adding? Or should it be a different amount? Also for the water should I then subtract 8 grams of water from the original recipe because ill be compensating for it in the kaolin clay? And then when do I put the kaolin clay in? Do I put it at light trace, do I put it with my oils? Thanks so much.

 

[TheGecko]

Hello! I read somewhere that you should be putting 2/4 grams of kaolin clay per pound of oils (.5 - 1 teaspoon), and you should be mixing kaolin clay with 1 part clay and 1 part water. Lets say for my recipe im adding 8 grams of kaolin clay.. Should I be putting 8 grams of the kaolin clay+water mixture? Or should I be putting 8 grams of kaolin clay + the water?

Kaolin Clay is a choice, not a requirement. Some folks add it because they believe it makes the soap bar glides over the skin easier aka 'slip', or they mix it with their FO/EO to 'anchor' it (make it last longer). Whether it does or doesn't is anyone's guess.

I use it at 1 tea PPO (per pound of oils). I add it my FO, give it a good whiz and let it sit a bit. I then stir it again before adding it into my oils or batter...depending on what I am making.

Since everyone is different...different recipes, different soap temperatures, different parts of the world...what you do is figure out what works for you by trying it different ways, making note and going with the best option.

Side note...if I'm making an unscented soap, I just add the clay straight into my oils and let them soak in and then give them a whiz. If I'm using it as a colorant, then I will disperse it in water before hand. You can use some of the water weighed out for your Lye Solution or you can just add a little extra water from your jug.

 

[dibbles]

I always disperse my clays in oil or water taken from the batch amount. If kaolin is in the whole batch, I don't worry too much about the amount of oil/water I mix it with and I add it directly to my oils and stick blend it well before adding the lye solution. I make a soap with activated charcoal in 3/4 of the batter and kaolin in 1/4 of the batter. I disperse both in proportionate amounts of liquid from the batch. So, for example, I would figure out how much AC I need for 3/4 of the batter and how much kaolin I would need for 1/4 of the batter. I split the batter at emulsion and stir in the dispersed clay and charcoal. I can't remember off hand exactly how much liquid I use to disperse, but I would guess it to be 2:1 water:clay. So if I was using 3 tsp of AC, I disperse it in 2 tablespoons (6 tsp) of liquid and 1 tsp of kaolin in 2 tsp water. If that water amount isn't enough to make the clay fluid, add a little more.

 

[dmcgee5034]

Very helpful! I’ve never used clay before but just got some as a reward from BB. I’ve been wondering about the basics of using it. Thanks @TheGecko and @dibbles, and to @DomTheDillyHoo for asking.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Lets say for my recipe im adding 8 grams of kaolin clay..

White Bar Soap - NEW Type of Method

This is my newest batch of soap. It came out really well. Went to a thin trace within 2 minutes and then poured into a silicone loaf mold. Yes... there are a few tiny air bubbles in there. Like the Navajos do when they make their famous Turquoise jewelry, I keep a few imperfections to let the...

www.soapmakingforum.com

10% kaolin soap

made this last night , using 400g olive oil,50g coconut oil, 50g lard. 2 to one water to lye. mixed 50g of New zeland haloysite clay in the water and lye, and mixed as normal , got trace , then vasaline stage and into the mold, drying on rack now

www.soapmakingforum.com

 

[johnnyusa]

thanks for asking that question as i've been wondering how much clay ppo i should be using too
i'm pretty sure i sprinkled a little too much in this last batch i have curing now
anybody want to see pics?
the clay def helps make a good shaving soap for by double-edged razor- learned that at the wet shaving forum 'Against the Grain.' Cool forum.
Everything about clay compliments soap. I love clay. I used kaolin, french, & moroccon clay in my last batch. Bought a large amount of clay that i stored in glass jars. I don't use anything but clay for color

when i mix in clays to bar soap i always do it AFTER mixing the lye w/ the fats in one batch
simpler that way, right? Otherwise i'd have to measure & mix lye for each color batch
then i pour the saponifying soap as fast as i can into three giant pitchers, eyeball some clay into into each one then give each pitcher a quick stick-blend to get color mixed in n pour it into the mold before it turns into oatmeal on me

make some swirls using a chopstick.

 

[TheGecko]

thanks for asking that question as i've been wondering how much clay ppo i should be using too
i'm pretty sure i sprinkled a little too much in this last batch i have curing now
anybody want to see pics?
the clay def helps make a good shaving soap for by double-edged razor- learned that at the wet shaving forum 'Against the Grain.' Cool forum.
Everything about clay compliments soap. I love clay. I used kaolin, french, & moroccon clay in my last batch. Bought a large amount of clay that i stored in glass jars. I don't use anything but clay for color

when i mix in clays to bar soap i always do it AFTER mixing the lye w/ the fats in one batch
simpler that way, right? Otherwise i'd have to measure & mix lye for each color batch
then i pour the saponifying soap as fast as i can into three giant pitchers, eyeball some clay into into each one then give each pitcher a quick stick-blend to get color mixed in n pour it into the mold before it turns into oatmeal on me

make some swirls using a chopstick.

While you batter needs to be fully emulsified, it doesn’t have to be to separate for colors. I make a Red, White and Blue soap…red pigment, blue ultramarine and TD; so it tends to thicken. I add the FO to the oils, then add lye solution, give it a quick 2 or 3 second whiz, a good stir and separate for my colors..not a enough time for a stable emulsion, but I get a good mix and I quickly pour off. Then I have a bit of time to chill, stir in my colorants, achieve that stable emulsion and then pour my soap.

I have prepared separate batches for a layered soap…not a huge deal; personal choice.

We always like to see pictures of soap.

 

[CLMP]

Hello! I read somewhere that you should be putting 2/4 grams of kaolin clay per pound of oils (.5 - 1 teaspoon), and you should be mixing kaolin clay with 1 part clay and 1 part water. Lets say for my recipe im adding 8 grams of kaolin clay.. Should I be putting 8 grams of the kaolin clay+water mixture? Or should I be putting 8 grams of kaolin clay + the water?

Hi I'm new to soap making so I don't know much, just the info I find online and what I use is 1 tsp per pound of of oil and I mix it with 1 tbs of water for each tsp of clay. The info I think I read said clay absorbed all the water and that if you don't put enough water in your clay your soap will crack. It also said mixing it in water is better then using oil to mix it. I pour mine in before my lye. This is just info I find on line. But oh and I don't subtract water from my lye water. But maybe I'm wrong my soap is amazing though for a newbie.

 

[johnnyusa]

While you batter needs to be fully emulsified, it doesn’t have to be to separate for colors. I make a Red, White and Blue soap…red pigment, blue ultramarine and TD; so it tends to thicken. I add the FO to the oils, then add lye solution, give it a quick 2 or 3 second whiz, a good stir and separate for my colors..not a enough time for a stable emulsion, but I get a good mix and I quickly pour off. Then I have a bit of time to chill, stir in my colorants, achieve that stable emulsion and then pour my soap.

I have prepared separate batches for a layered soap…not a huge deal; personal choice.

We always like to see pictures of soap.

I also add scent to fats, then the lye solution (in aloe vera juice), and in the below pics I did stickblend for just few seconds too long after trace. I was only able to pour 75% and then i had to spoon the rest of the near-oatmeal consistency into the molds. The logs developed a few very small cracks from excess heat that only the soapmaker will ever notice. So, this batch got a little hot on me so it's not perfect and I'm not quite thrilled with it yet, but nevertheless it'll be fabulous soap bc 38% olive, 25% coconut, 20% palm, 10% cocoa butter, 5% castor, and 2% beeswax all of it in an aloe vera juice base superfatted @ 6% w/ a full oz of EOs ppo for not only scent but preservative. It's been curing nearly two weeks already.

220oz of oils for a 20lbs batch using two (old) 10 lb wooden BB molds

some people say spray w isopropyl n cover w reynold's wrap to prevent whatchamacallit frosting on top of logs, but i like it the frosting

i know it's not the world's most beautiful soap but clay is totally natural and it makes the soap better so i choose that functionality over pure aesthetics that could perhaps compromise my purely natural soap

 

[TheGecko]

Nice looking soap. A chopstick is a good option when dealing with a thick batter. All my Christmas soaps accelerated and I was plopping soap batter into my mold, but a vigorous application of the chopstick left me with some pretty nice swirls.

Always make the soap you want to make and to heck with anyone else.

 

[johnnyusa]

thank you, Gecko
i agree w those sentiments
chopsticks truly are such a wonderful tool, & for a wide variety of applications, too

 

[dmcgee5034]

I just might steal that - “frosting” instead of the whatchamacallit that shall not be named ️

Nice soaps!

 

[Ochre+Co]

I add kaolin at 1% of my oil weight. For my 80oz oil batches, this comes to 0.8oz. It’s easier for me to scale it this way. I take a small portion of my oils that don’t need to be melted and stick blend the kaolin into a small container off to the side. It’s probably about a cup or so of oil. Then, I pour that back in with my oils and stick blend again. This is all before adding lye or fragrance.

 

[SoapLover1]

I tried a Lots & Lots of Clay Recipe for 1.1lbs. of Oils with 10 TBS of Clay. I thought it was much to much but found it was not! It’s Wonderful! One of my Favorites to date!

 

[johnnyusa]

1% clay ppo. Ochre, I didn't have a tsp n already melted or melting my fats. Perfect. Thank you!
Imna start easy @ 0.5% ppo

20 lb pt xmas soap, w take my word for it very beautiful purple clay @ 0.5% ppo or 1.1 oz for 220 oz

Got 95% poured and molds were already full, but more soap than usual bc no loss from using pitchers since only one color obviously. The last little 5% started accelerating on me, which was actually okay bc the molds were way full & I could use molds vertical real estate going up further than usual. I like tall bars and hate not having enough batter to completely fill molds... nah I'm j/k I prefer my soap logs smooth n creamy, not chunky on top. It"s a slightly imperfect pour, yes.. but I will love the soap nonetheless.

I soaped today @ 120F bc I always soap at 120 when using palm & also always want fat temp & lye temp within 5 degrees of each other at combination for better crystallization, bc that's how I was originally taught but not sure if it's true. Heard some people say soap w pine tar @ room temp. I've never tried that. Could be a great idea but this worked for me. Ten seconds less stickblending would've been swell. Dee was so right about there's not much of a trace w pt until you've already gone too far, but thankfully for her advice the recipe tweaks worked out & i was real careful not to overblend too much so thanks to grace of God I think it worked out okay for me. $192 material cost if I screwed it up. I was nervous. 7 oz EOs for further accelerant.

 

[Ochre+Co]

1% clay ppo. Ochre, I didn't have a tsp n already melted or melting my fats. Perfect. Thank you!
Imna start easy @ 0.5% ppo

No problem. It’s easy to scale it from there once you figure out what you like.

 

[Paulie]

I use 1 teaspoon Kaolin Clay per ppo, and mix it in my lye mixture.

 

[penelopejane]

20 lb pt xmas soap, w take my word for it very beautiful purple clay @ 0.5% ppo or 1.1 oz for 220 oz

$192 material cost if I screwed it up. I was nervous. 7 oz EOs for further accelerant.

Johnny,
20lb of soap shouldn't be costing ou $192 to make. Are you buying your supplies from wholesalers?
Where are you getting your EOs?
EOs don't preserve your soap and they fade quickly.