Charcoal soap
- Thread starter Pansy
- Start date
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Hi there,
I like to use some of my batch water to hydrate the charcoal first. Then I stickblend it into my oils before adding the lye solution. If you don't want to add it to the oils, then adding it at emulsion rather than trace is probably the next best option. The charcoal can thicken your batter very quickly, making it quite difficult to mix in well if you add it at trace.
I like to use some of my batch water to hydrate the charcoal first. Then I stickblend it into my oils before adding the lye solution. If you don't want to add it to the oils, then adding it at emulsion rather than trace is probably the next best option. The charcoal can thicken your batter very quickly, making it quite difficult to mix in well if you add it at trace.
Thank you
Here's an article about gel phase. I like to gel, it makes the colors a bit more vibrant and allows me to unmold sooner. gel phase Archives - Soap Queen.
To gel, after I pour batter into my mold, I cover with cardboard and a pile of towels. In the cold Midwest winter, I add a heating pad under the mold for 2 hours.
To gel, after I pour batter into my mold, I cover with cardboard and a pile of towels. In the cold Midwest winter, I add a heating pad under the mold for 2 hours.
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That's really beautiful!
To gel or not to gel ~ that is the question of life itself! 
I personally chose not to gel since I usually make milk soaps and a common issue with milk soaps is scorching so, as a newbie, I followed all the rules for keeping my soap as cool as possible to keep a creamy appearance when finished. This includes putting my molds in the fridge for a few hours until they get past the hot phase. I did have one recipe get super hot on me while I was still stick blending so I slid that one in the freezer
and it turned out fine 
.
So I am team no gel, just by preference.
I will also add I have never had a soap get the gel ring in the middle on its own by chilling my soap
I personally chose not to gel since I usually make milk soaps and a common issue with milk soaps is scorching so, as a newbie, I followed all the rules for keeping my soap as cool as possible to keep a creamy appearance when finished. This includes putting my molds in the fridge for a few hours until they get past the hot phase. I did have one recipe get super hot on me while I was still stick blending so I slid that one in the freezer
and it turned out fine . So I am team no gel, just by preference.
I will also add I have never had a soap get the gel ring in the middle on its own by chilling my soap
Servant4Christ
Well-Known Member
I have never had a soap get the gel ring in the middle on its own by chilling my soap
My first experience with lots of honey was in @earlene's blacksmith recipe. I got my first ever heat cracks. So the next time I tried, I figured cooling it would be the best way to prevent the heat cracks. I got my first ever partial gel.
Servant4Christ
Well-Known Member
As for charcoal, I add it to the oils and stick blend to make sure it is very well dispersed and suspended before adding my lye solution.
