1st time cp storing issue

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Wow, that's some soft soap after 48 hours!

I ran the recipes (except for the one that made the substitutions) through SoapCalc and it's showing me that there's lots of excess water in them- much more than what I consider to be a full water amount. It's no wonder the soaps are so soft still.

The lye amounts look to be within safe range and the soap should be fine after a good cure, although I'm not sure about that one with the substitutions. That one concerns me because I don't know if the lye was adjusted properly to compensate for the substitutions that were made. If you decide to keep it, definitely conduct a zap-test before trying it out, after it has cured for at least 2 to 4 weeks, of course. You should zap-test the others in like manner as well.

Ditto what Susie said about never making substitutions without adjusting the lye to the different SAP #'s of the substitution oils. I'm not sure what went on in the class or whether any lye adjustments were made for it, but I just thought I'd mention that it's playing with fire to forge ahead and make soap without first making the proper adjustments when subbing oils.

Goodness, I probably sound like a critical cranky-pants, and I don't mean to, but there sure was a lot of beeswax in that first recipe, I must say. Just a head's-up that you may not get much lather from it.

Like the good Gent said, with a good cure, it's likely that you won't need to toss them out, but whether you end up liking them or not is another story. Only time and cure will tell.

The recipe the good Gent posted is a good starter recipe to make and to learn from..... and also to tweak to your liking as you go forth. Just run it through a good lye calculator to get the proper lye and water amounts for it first. SoapCalc is the calculator I use and it a very good one, although there is a learning curve for those who are new or not familiar with it. I've never used the calculator that Susie mentioned, but if she says it's good and more user-friendly, then I trust her. :thumbup:


IrishLass :)
 
Thanks everyone :)

Thanks! This was a non-credit class at a college near me. Im going to keep trying and make some soap! The videos and links are going to help me a lot. Im going to get a digital scale, I have one in oz. The soap calc and that other calc I'm going to use religiously now. Zap test, yes yes yes! Thanks again :)
 
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When buying a scale - get a food scale, not a postal scale! A food scale is designed to weigh changing amounts - such as when you are pouring oil into a container. a postal scale is not. Also, get a scale that weighs in decimals, not fractions. I have found scales as cheap as $10 at Bargain Hunt. HomeGoods is also a good source.
 
I'm going to echo IL and others and recommend that you keep an especially close eye on the soap w/the substituted oils. Did the instructor adjust the lye, do you know?

If I sub oils I try to stay with a replacement oil that has a very close SAP value to the one I am replacing, that was not the case here. E.g., the SAP no. for jojoba is very different for the one for avocado, I would just have subbed OO for the whole avocado amount b/c they are close in SAP and other properties. The adjustments here are more complicated b/c the sub is a mix of joboba and vegetable oil but no proportions given (also not clear what kind of veg. oil so not even sure what the SAP is there), although I assume it was more vegetable oil than anything else given how expensive jojoba is.

The same reasoning applies for the castor-palm sub. And as Susie pointed out, that is a lot of castor for this amount of oils. That is another reason the soap may be gooey. The rule of thumb w/castor is not to exceed 5%. Plenty of us do to some degree, but that amount is a whole lot.

Anyway, that is the one that would most worthy of watching for me. The subs are so weird that I wonder what the instructor was thinking of.

ETA: Also, jojoba is so expensive that is kind of a waste in CP, where you cannot ensure that its wonderful qualities will the ones that act as the superfat. Better used in products w/o lye.
 
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I threw out the two with substitutes. What a learning lesson! Im happy with the gentle facial soap (pumpkin scented) and the vegetable soap is hardening nicely. I scented the vegetable soap with Lilac mostly. Now I wait 6 weeks and see what they are like.
 
I really don't want to pick on things any more as I just wish it had all gone so differently for you - but I really dislike the names that he gave to them. "Vegetable" soap when in fact none of the recipes call for any animal fats and the only thing in there is some shortening. The "gentle facial" soap is a Castile with it being 100% olive oil.

I think he needed some way to differentiate between them In a way that would stick quickly, but then if someone says that they made a facial bar, would people from the course be thinking of that recipe rather than any bar specifically designed for use on the face?
 
I thought they were weird names as well. None were quite fitting to their ingredients. I am going to follow advice from here. I have very sensitive skin, which is actually how I got into DIY soap, body butters, oils, etc.
 
Update on my glooby globs-a-rama- i regret throwing away my 2 abominations. Anyhoo, the three of the five I kept are firmer now. Im still baffled by the recipe names given by the instructor. The oat and homey bar doesn't even have honey. The Gentle face bar could be used all over. The Vegetable Soap is right out.
 
ImageUploadedBySoap Making1442509074.168505.jpgImageUploadedBySoap Making1442509086.020063.jpgImageUploadedBySoap Making1442509097.755784.jpg
I forgot to attach those to my update! Derp.
 
the purple monster is food coloring? It seems that you have a natural knack for soap, because you take constructive criticism well and you are not afraid to try again, something that a soaper needs. Your next batch will be a great success.
 
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All I know is that you are going to have some purple, dark pink and orange suds. Don't ask how I know, well you can. There's this big batch of soap I had to color with red food coloring. The soaps are red, I never used them in the past 9 months that they have been curing. I just tested one today, lathers like crazy, pink to red bubbles. And the red isn't even very saturated like yours.
 
I invite criticism. It helps me learn how to improve. Something I learned in life, there are no mistakes just learning. The class was not a great way to learn CP soap-making that is for sure! Im lucky to get good advice here. Thanks again! Oh, i have ph testing paper and it is from 1-14, when i tested my soaps they were all at 10. Im letting them cure until October 25th and will test again. Im going to buy lye off Amazon to practice a decent recipe at home. I have all the tools i need to keep on keepin on :)
 
All I know is that you are going to have some purple, dark pink and orange suds. Don't ask how I know, well you can. There's this big batch of soap I had to color with red food coloring. The soaps are red, I never used them in the past 9 months that they have been curing. I just tested one today, lathers like crazy, pink to red bubbles. And the red isn't even very saturated like yours.
did the food color stain?:?
 
I try my soap, a piece of that on first week then two weeks and three which usually tells me how good it is:))
just hand washing
 

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