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Additionally, I do have some old castile bars hanging around somewhere...probably cured for two years, lol.

Yes, I have a lot of red palm oil on hand.

It's been forever since I've posted here, but I know this is the place to go for help, and lord do I need help! :mrgreen: (I've been researching for some time now and can't quite figure out how to go about it, even though soapcalc helps all the options are driving me mad!) Before I get into...

20% SF for 100% coconut oil bars. 7% for something like a pure castile.

I'm a bit more short tempered and would have told the guy to screw off, especially since you had no intention of insulting him in the first place. He needs to learn customer service and how to handle criticism (not that you were even that critical). If he can't deal with questions like that...

I've had good experience with 20% SF on a high coconut oil bar. A low SF on a coconut oil bar is certainly stripping, although some folks are super sensitive to even that. If you discount water then pure castille bars harden pretty fast. I make a lot of 100% OO bars.

If this clear stuff is still pure, it would be a godsend - I'm tired of my purple colors turning grey when I add my orange oils!

I might be interested. PM me?

And here I was thinking it was just an idiotic marketing gimmick ;)

I agree; vegetarian doesn't necessarily mean eco-friendly. I'd rather get soap directly from a cow than indirectly get soap from a dead orangutan.

Can you do beef tallow? I think it produces a hard bar like palm.

But it did gel, I saw it. :(

Okay, the soap turned out okay for the most part, but it's much darker than in this picture.

Christmas soap is srs business.

PITAHP = Pain in the *ss hot process (Usually reserved for when I'm making liquid soap.)

I just got done making a batch of liquid soap, it took me **** near 3 days to cook and dissolve it, count yourself very fortunate.

1.) Put stainless steel stockpot on burner 2.) turn on burner until oils are melted 3.) turn off burner 4.) add cooled lye water

Liquid soaps are lye heavy on purpose. You add boric acid or borax to neutralize the extra lye after you dissolve the cooked soap in water. It seems to work okay, but mine needs a chance to sit longer.

I just made a true liquid soap that seems to work awesomely, but you need some potassium hydroxide. I used coconut oil and sunflower oil. So far, so good on the hands. Here's the link to the recipe I used : http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/liquidsoap/ss/basicliquidsoap.htm

LOL, no problem. It was really funny at 2 AM. ;)