SunWolf. I froze my GM (canned, didn't dilute) and it turned a yucky orange. I'm thinking of tossing it. Have you any experience with orange gm? If I use TD in the main batter and lots of colors, can it be salvaged? It was only $2-ish, so I'm not out a whole lot of money if I have to toss it. Of course, I didn't read the label until after I saw my orange milk cubes and dug it out of the trash can. :-( I learn a lot by screwing things up.Just remember that the milk fats will start to saponify and can get pretty thick if you leave it sit for too long while mixing oils. I weigh out all my oils and have the solid oils melted before I mix my lye into my goat milk. Also, freeze your milk before adding the lye to help keep from scorching the milk and turning it orange.
The co-op sells powdered gm for milk replacement. I'll have to look into that to see what they charge. The feed store carries it, too. I'll bet they're cheaper.Powder goat milk is quite handy! Stick blend into the soft oils. I like to use distilled water as the lye water because it's easier to strain out the precipitate after adding edta or Citric acid. Might be cheaper too, I get mine from Vitacost.
Just remember that the milk fats will start to saponify and can get pretty thick if you leave it sit for too long while mixing oils. I weigh out all my oils and have the solid oils melted before I mix my lye into my goat milk. Also, freeze your milk before adding the lye to help keep from scorching the milk and turning it orange.
Dharlee- the ammonia smell and orange color are fairly normal when making goat-milk soaps with 100% canned goat-milk that's mixed directly with the lye. At least it was always that way for me back when I used to make my milk soaps by that method (I use a different method now, see below). Good news, though- the ammonia smell goes away about a week into cure, and the orange color always cured to tan for me.I made my first batch of GM a couple of months ago and used canned GM that I had frozen first but not diluted in place of distilled water. It stunk to high heaven and turned somewhat orange. I soaped at 90 degrees but the odd thing was that I got lye spots throughout the soap. I've never seen that before. I tried to rebatch but it stunk again and worried me enough that I ended up throwing it out. The ammonia smell was super strong as I soaped and rebatched both times.
Correct.So if I understand correctly, you take enough water to match the amount of lye and mix that with the lye so that the lye will desolve well and mix that first. Then the rest of the liquid is used as GM and added to the oils before adding the lye? If you wanted to make it 100% you'd add enough powdered GM to make up the amount of whatever amount was used with the lye, do I have it right?
Go on- do it! :mrgreen:I want to try it SO bad.
I can only speak for the GM powder that I use - Meyenberg GM powder- but for what it's worth, I have often soaped with it at 120F - 125F and have never experienced any burning issues with it. I always dissolve it in milk (or sometimes water) first before adding it to my oils.I have some powdered GM and was thinking to use that for the soap only. I was thinking to add the powder to the oils before adding the lye water. The GM powder I have is the real deal- no soy. Can this still burn? I ususally soap at about 130 but could certainly soap cooler.
You guys are AWESOME! Thank you!