Unmolding Times

[ShirleyHailstock]

Another newbie question. Is there a chart or does it appear in a recipe or soap calc when is the optimum time to unmold the soap? I thought it was 12-24 hours after pouring. Yet, I see instances where people use a longer time. How do you know the right time to unmold. So far, my soap has unmolded without any incidents.

Thanks again.

 

[nature coast]

I think it really depends on your recipe. The more hard oils and butters you use the sooner you could unmold. Also the trace at which you pour your soap can effect how soon you can unmold. If you pour at a thicker trace you can take your soap out of the mold sooner. I also use sodium lactate to harden the bars quicker.

 

[Obsidian]

There is no chart as unmolding time has so many factors that affect it.

Generally, if your soap feels like cheddar cheese then its ready to unmold and cut. I've had it take 24 hours, I've also had it take 6 and it was the same recipe.

 

[shunt2011]

It will totally depend on your recipe, molds, gelling or not gelling, room temperature, amount of insulation, lye concentration. You’ll have to figure it out with trial and error for your circumstances. I have soaps that can be in-molded in 3 hours and some that need 12-24.

 

[ShirleyHailstock]

It will totally depend on your recipe, molds, gelling or not gelling, rom temperature, amount of insulation, lye concentration. You’ll have to figure it out with trial and error for your circumstances. I have soaps that can be in-molded in 3 hours and some that need 12-24.

Is touch a factor? When I touch the soap, is that an indicator that it might be ready? I understand I'm only touch the top of the soap and will not know what the inside looks like. When I use the silicone molds, I can see the sides. I've watched videos of people removing them and cutting them. When I unmolded, it looked the same.

 

[shunt2011]

Is touch a factor? When I touch the soap, is that an indicator that it might be ready? I understand I'm only touch the top of the soap and will not know what the inside looks like. When I use the silicone molds, I can see the sides. I've watched videos of people removing them and cutting them. When I unmolded, it looked the same.

Yes, touch can help as a beginner. It should be like semi firm cheese. When you push on it it shouldn’t easily dent.

 

[KiwiMoose]

You’ll get the hang of it eventually. Lye concentration can also affect unmolding times. I usually unmold and cut about 24 hours after. I gel my soaps and use 30% lye concentration. I have 50:50 saturated:unsaturated oils in my recipe.

 

[TheGecko]

Another newbie question. Is there a chart or does it appear in a recipe or soap calc when is the optimum time to unmold the soap? I thought it was 12-24 hours after pouring. Yet, I see instances where people use a longer time. How do you know the right time to unmold. So far, my soap has unmolded without any incidents.

Thanks again.

I just unmolded soap that had been sitting my garage for a week, slipped right out of the mold.

But there is no ‘chart’ other than the one you make based on your own experience. During the Spring, I can unmold in 18 to 24 hours. During the Summer, it’s 12 to 18. As the weather cooled down in the Fall, I was waiting two days. Now that the cold weather is upon us, I’m thinking at least four.

 

[ShirleyHailstock]

Yes, touch can help as a beginner. It should be like semi firm cheese. When you push on it it shouldn’t easily dent.

Good. At least on this I'm OK.

I just unmolded soap that had been sitting my garage for a week, slipped right out of the mold.

But there is no ‘chart’ other than the one you make based on your own experience. During the Spring, I can unmold in 18 to 24 hours. During the Summer, it’s 12 to 18. As the weather cooled down in the Fall, I was waiting two days. Now that the cold weather is upon us, I’m thinking at least four.

Does this have anything to do with storing it in a garage? My garage is too cold in winter, too hot in summer. I'm keeping it in a corner of the dining room, out of the sun and heat controlled.

 

[Zing]

Shirley, you'll get the hang of it. You said you use silicone molds. I gently pull on 2 opposite sides. If the mold pulls easily from the soap, then it's time to unmold. If the soap sticks to the mold, then I wait. As others have said, feel for a cheddar cheese feel.

 

[ShirleyHailstock]

Shirley, you'll get the hang of it. You said you use silicone molds. I gently pull on 2 opposite sides. If the mold pulls easily from the soap, then it's time to unmold. If the soap sticks to the mold, then I wait. As others have said, feel for a cheddar cheese feel.

This is what I have done. In the future, I'll be sure to continue checking it that way. So far I haven't had any mishaps. I made the soap using the Black Amber Lavender EO and didn't know it would turn chocolate, but other than that the soap is fine.

 

[TheGecko]

Does this have anything to do with storing it in a garage? My garage is too cold in winter, too hot in summer. I'm keeping it in a corner of the dining room, out of the sun and heat controlled.

Temperature, air circulation, humidity all play a part (along with the recipe).

I haven’t found the heat to be a problem, but the cold and the damp is. Kind of. Sort of. Example, I made three soaps last weekend; Regular Soap, Coconut Soap, Salt Soap. My Regular Soap wan’t gelling when the temps dropped below 60F and it was taking a couple of days to unmold and then another couple of day to cut. So increased my lye concentration to 35% at someone’s suggestion and it helped, but still no gel. Then someone else suggest ‘oven process’ and that was helping, except this last time, I left the oven on and I noticed the top looked like the texture of an orange...not a biggies, I was just making soap for hubby and it’ll plane off. This was a 2lb loaf mold.

The Coconut and Salt Soaps where just 1lb batches in cavity molds. First time making a 100% Coconut Oil and I did an ITP (in the pot) swirl with some Rose Clay, no scent. Poured it, put it in the garage, unmolded two days later with no issue. Trimmed them today and they still looking good. Same with the Salt...poured it, put it in the garage and unmolded two days later and man they sure are purty! This is my third attempt at a Salt Soap and I am tickled pink so far. Went to check on tem today since I need to move them to the top shelf and I noticed they were weeping. Neither of my other attempts did this, but this is also a different recipe. Research says that this is not uncommon as salt will pull moisture from the air. And we had a lot of rain this last week. So after I planed them, I wrapped them in paper towels and put them on the top shelf.

Bottom line...hot and dry is good for soap, moisture will evaporate quicker. Cold and damp...not so much. But except for the time factor, it doesn’t seem to be harming any of the other soaps I have been curing.

 

[ShirleyHailstock]

Temperature, air circulation, humidity all play a part (along with the recipe).

I haven’t found the heat to be a problem, but the cold and the damp is. Kind of. Sort of. Example, I made three soaps last weekend; Regular Soap, Coconut Soap, Salt Soap. My Regular Soap wan’t gelling when the temps dropped below 60F and it was taking a couple of days to unmold and then another couple of day to cut. So increased my lye concentration to 35% at someone’s suggestion and it helped, but still no gel. Then someone else suggest ‘oven process’ and that was helping, except this last time, I left the oven on and I noticed the top looked like the texture of an orange...not a biggies, I was just making soap for hubby and it’ll plane off. This was a 2lb loaf mold.

The Coconut and Salt Soaps where just 1lb batches in cavity molds. First time making a 100% Coconut Oil and I did an ITP (in the pot) swirl with some Rose Clay, no scent. Poured it, put it in the garage, unmolded two days later with no issue. Trimmed them today and they still looking good. Same with the Salt...poured it, put it in the garage and unmolded two days later and man they sure are purty! This is my third attempt at a Salt Soap and I am tickled pink so far. Went to check on tem today since I need to move them to the top shelf and I noticed they were weeping. Neither of my other attempts did this, but this is also a different recipe. Research says that this is not uncommon as salt will pull moisture from the air. And we had a lot of rain this last week. So after I planed them, I wrapped them in paper towels and put them on the top shelf.

Bottom line...hot and dry is good for soap, moisture will evaporate quicker. Cold and damp...not so much. But except for the time factor, it doesn’t seem to be harming any of the other soaps I have been curing.

Thank you. I think from all the replies I've received, the answer is experience and experimentation. So far I haven't had any issues that I read about. The soap smells wonderfully. I have it in the house (the heat is on, since it's winter here. I see no ash on the soap or weeping. One batch was moist when I cut it, but it's drying now (3 weeks later). The smell is pleasant. The color is not my desire, but there's nothing wrong with the soap. I'm going to test it weekly for lather after the six week period. This was suggested by another person on this forum.