The Great "Lotion" Bar Experiment

[TheGecko]

My first LB was 70% Cocoa Butter, 14% each Shea Butter and Bees Wax and 3% FO. To help counter the greasiness of the butters I added Arrowroot which helped a little. Then I let them cure for a month which gave the Arrowroot time to work and make them a little less greasy, but the trade-off was a bar that didn't glide across your skin.

Next LB was 22% Coconut Oil, 22% split between two lightweight oils, 22% split between two butters, 30% Bees Wax, 4% FO. It also included Arrowroot Powder. I tried went with Sweet Almond and Jojoba, and Cocoa and Shea. I got mixed reviews...some folks really liked it, some folks didn't...I'm in the middle. The addition of the oils provide for better slip, but it 'melted' a lot faster. The greasiness is still there, but it does absorb a bit faster.

From a recent discussion I have some new stuff: Meadowfoam Oil*, Raspberry Seed Oil*, Evening Primrose Oil*, Vitamin E Oil, Calendula Petals, Green Tea Extract, and Isopropyl Myristate. Ingredients that I have on hand are Cocoa, Shea, Mango and Kokum Butters., and Coconut, Sweet Almond, Jojoba, Grapeseed, and Avocado Oils.

Now I understand that an anhydrous lotion bar will always be 'greasy', it's pure fat after all, but I would like it to be less greasy. And I would like it to be more absorbent. I work in an office and I knit and I don't have a lot of time to wait around for it to be absorbed before I touch anything. Or have to wipe off my hands and defeat the purpose of using it in the first place. And I want it to be light. As much as I like many cream lotions, I don't like the heavy, sticky feeling that it leaves and usually have to rinse off my hands after about five to ten minutes. The bar has to glide across the skin, but not melt too fast. And it has to a scent that is pleasing to the user, but not overwhelm people around them. I still remember the first time I used a Lotion Bar...in church. Within a minute of using it, people started looking around for the smell, and I got several disapproving looks.

Cost is not really too much of an issue. I care more about producing a good quality product that brings customers back, than in selling a cheap product that no one returns for.

I am hoping to get some suggestions from folks who have a heck of a lot more experience. A list of your favorite ingredients and/or tip and tricks. Formulations are always appreciated, but not necessary. Thank you in advance.

* - Picked up cheap in a destash

 

[dibbles]

I am far from a lotion bar expert, but have made them several times. After trying @Zing's, I will stick pretty close to that combination. Like you, I hate the greasy feeling on the palms of my hands, and am constantly wiping anything applied off because of it. I'll be honest - I don't use lotion bars on my hands very often. BUT, I love them just about everywhere else. The amount of residue (for lack of a better word) left on my hands after applying the lotion bar to my feet, or wherever, is just enough to rub in and quickly(ish) absorb before it annoys me. The other thing I do if using a lotion bar just on my hands is to rub my palms on my arms or legs - but that might not work too well when you are in public

For me, mango butter really makes a difference. I think shea and coconut are both too greasy feeling for me, but cocoa butter would be my second choice. Jojoba with another light liquid oil is a good choice IMO. I happen to have a little meadowfoam right now, and is probably the best of any I've tried.

 

[Kcryss]

I haven't made any lotion bars yet but will likely be working on them in the very near future. Looking foward to seeing the results of your experiment and subsequent recommendations.

 

[AliOop]

Oooh, since you have Meadowfoam Seed Oil, and IPM, here's what I'd do:

33% beeswax
33% mango butter
33% MFSO
1% IPM

Here are the reasons behind my choices:

MFSO and mango are two of the least-greasy choices in the oil and butter categories, respectively. Then the IPM is a penetration enhancer, making everything soak in faster so there isn't a sticky layer on your skin. It leaves a very dry but still soft finish.

You can add 1% of an FO if you want a soft scent; I'd take that from the MFSO if you go that route.

 

[BWt]

Just beginning to learn lotion bars. Thank you @AliOop for the IPM recommendation. Agree with @dibbles on Mango Butter. @TheGecko sounds like you have an outstanding choice of inventory! @Zing am using the 33/33/33 with 1% scent. The only variable is if the butter being used is a hard brittle type then I back off the Beeswax a bit. Want to share a recent lotion bar made with beeswax/tucuma butter/ Rosehip oil. It’s fast absorbing and a lovely color. Did another bar with Beeswax/Tucuma/Tamanu. Added a teeny bit of dried plantain which was super blended in vitamix with a bit of grapeseed. The plantain is very finely ground up giving a bit of exfoliation. Tamanu oil seems very difficult to scent. Went with patchouli/verbena/geranium/lemon eo mix (from Valerie Ann Worwood eo book). Tamanu not as absorbent. Am adding two links for info I use frequently. Oil absorption rates and Butter absorption rates.
https://beneficialbotanicals.com/absorption-rates-of-carrier-oils/https://www.newdirectionsaromatics....out-butters.amp#absorpotion-rates-of-butters.

 

[BWt]

Wanted to add that parisfragrancesusa has a super sale on Tucuma butter. Have been purchasing Tucuma from them since 2018. It’s always excellent and if kept in a cool place away from light it stays in very good condition for two years or more. Here is the link. Scroll down for the coupon codes. $18 off or $40 off. Tucuma has a slightly nutty scent. It’s fast absorbing and makes excellent balms. Infuse this butter in Alkanet for a beautiful color.
https://www.parisfragrancesusa.com/products/tucuma-butter-natural-unrefined?variant=37842551144607

 

[A-Polly]

One thing that's helped me make lotion bars more convenient to use when working or driving is to pour the oil-butter-wax mixture into twist-up tubes (the big 2-oz. ones that look like giant lip balms). That way I can rub the bar on the backs of my hands or wherever without getting anything on my fingertips or palms (ha, perhaps it doesn't count as a "bar" anymore when in that shape, but the formula is the same). I don't recall where I got my tubes (bought a bunch a number of years ago) but they look pretty much like these at Wholesale Supplies Plus: https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/products/2-oz-natural-twist-up-tubetop.aspx

 

[AliOop]

One thing that's helped me make lotion bars more convenient to use when working or driving is to pour the oil-butter-wax mixture into twist-up tubes (the big 2-oz. ones that look like giant lip balms). That way I can rub the bar on the backs of my hands or wherever without getting anything on my fingertips or palms (ha, perhaps it doesn't count as a "bar" anymore when in that shape, but the formula is the same). I don't recall where I got my tubes (bought a bunch a number of years ago) but they look pretty much like these at Wholesale Supplies Plus: https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/products/2-oz-natural-twist-up-tubetop.aspx

Yes, I love these, too! Perfect for lotion bars!

 

[TheGecko]

So I read the articles from @bwtapestry (Thank you). Since I have the destashed oils sitting on my desk, I figured I would dab a little on. On a scales of 1 to 5 with 1 being the fastest absorbing, I agree that the Evening Primrose has a slow absorption rate (5). Meadowfoam is listed as a 2 and Raspberry Seed is a 3, but I found them to be the opposite.

On the butter front, the 'fastest' are Kokum, Cocoa and Shea though it appears to matter what kind of Shea you use. I checked to see what mine is...Virgin Shea from Ghana so I guess it is okay.

I was surprised that Coconut is a 4 and those who raved about Neem, it is a 5.

So I have a 15 cavity mold that I use for my 'purse' size LBs...0.75oz. So I think I will make a bunch of 4.50oz micro batches...one to keep and 5 to pass out to my guinea pigs...I mean, friends and family...to try out.

I only have 4oz of MFSO so I will have to plan carefully. And I think I will tint my bars so I know which one is which.

 

[contrinokathy]

My first LB was 70% Cocoa Butter, 14% each Shea Butter and Bees Wax and 3% FO. To help counter the greasiness of the butters I added Arrowroot which helped a little. Then I let them cure for a month which gave the Arrowroot time to work and make them a little less greasy, but the trade-off was a bar that didn't glide across your skin.

Next LB was 22% Coconut Oil, 22% split between two lightweight oils, 22% split between two butters, 30% Bees Wax, 4% FO. It also included Arrowroot Powder. I tried went with Sweet Almond and Jojoba, and Cocoa and Shea. I got mixed reviews...some folks really liked it, some folks didn't...I'm in the middle. The addition of the oils provide for better slip, but it 'melted' a lot faster. The greasiness is still there, but it does absorb a bit faster.

From a recent discussion I have some new stuff: Meadowfoam Oil*, Raspberry Seed Oil*, Evening Primrose Oil*, Vitamin E Oil, Calendula Petals, Green Tea Extract, and Isopropyl Myristate. Ingredients that I have on hand are Cocoa, Shea, Mango and Kokum Butters., and Coconut, Sweet Almond, Jojoba, Grapeseed, and Avocado Oils.

Now I understand that an anhydrous lotion bar will always be 'greasy', it's pure fat after all, but I would like it to be less greasy. And I would like it to be more absorbent. I work in an office and I knit and I don't have a lot of time to wait around for it to be absorbed before I touch anything. Or have to wipe off my hands and defeat the purpose of using it in the first place. And I want it to be light. As much as I like many cream lotions, I don't like the heavy, sticky feeling that it leaves and usually have to rinse off my hands after about five to ten minutes. The bar has to glide across the skin, but not melt too fast. And it has to a scent that is pleasing to the user, but not overwhelm people around them. I still remember the first time I used a Lotion Bar...in church. Within a minute of using it, people started looking around for the smell, and I got several disapproving looks.

Cost is not really too much of an issue. I care more about producing a good quality product that brings customers back, than in selling a cheap product that no one returns for.

I am hoping to get some suggestions from folks who have a heck of a lot more experience. A list of your favorite ingredients and/or tip and tricks. Formulations are always appreciated, but not necessary. Thank you in advance.

* - Picked up cheap in a destash

Stearic acid will help with greasiness. See humblebee and me. It also does not moisturize as much. Body butter/lotion bars are always greasy. I put them in deodorant tubes and that makes it easier to use. I also like a high brittle butter bar - cocoa butter - and use cornstarch and arrowroot powder.
Shea butter is greasy. Always so Babassu oil, Kokum butter, illipe butter are less greasy. Look for a table that describes each oil/butter. Slow absorbing oils/butters are greasy but more moisturizing. Mixing up absorption rate oils and butters adding cornstarch and arrowroot will help. Stearic acid also helps with absorption

 

[TheGecko]

One thing that's helped me make lotion bars more convenient to use when working or driving is to pour the oil-butter-wax mixture into twist-up tubes (the big 2-oz. ones that look like giant lip balms). That way I can rub the bar on the backs of my hands or wherever without getting anything on my fingertips or palms (ha, perhaps it doesn't count as a "bar" anymore when in that shape, but the formula is the same). I don't recall where I got my tubes (bought a bunch a number of years ago) but they look pretty much like these at Wholesale Supplies Plus: https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/products/2-oz-natural-twist-up-tubetop.aspx

I have two sizes of the twist tubes. I had bought a small amount of each for some idea that I had that didn't pan out and use them as 'testers/samplers" for craft fairs. They work great for applying the lotion bar, but then you generally use your hands to rub it in. LOL

 

[TheGecko]

Stearic acid will help with greasiness. See humblebee and me. It also does not moisturize as much. Body butter/lotion bars are always greasy. I put them in deodorant tubes and that makes it easier to use. I also like a high brittle butter bar - cocoa butter - and use cornstarch and arrowroot powder.
Shea butter is greasy. Always so Babassu oil, Kokum butter, illipe butter are less greasy. Look for a table that describes each oil/butter. Slow absorbing oils/butters are greasy but more moisturizing. Mixing up absorption rate oils and butters adding cornstarch and arrowroot will help. Stearic acid also helps with absorption

Thank you for the suggestion. I'm going to start with Isopropyl Myristate as it's an emollient; it was suggested in another LB thread and also saw it on Humblebee & Me.

As previously relayed, I have quite a few ingredients on hand to experiment with and read the article suggested about absorption rates of oils and butters. I will be making a bunch of micro batches with various combinations of butters and oils. I just need to sit down this week and write out a base recipe and then make a list of those combinations and then get to work this weekend.

 

[Kiti Williams]

Now I understand that an anhydrous lotion bar will always be 'greasy', it's pure fat after all, but I would like it to be less greasy. And I would like it to be more absorbent. I work in an office and I knit and I don't have a lot of time to wait around for it to be absorbed before I touch anything.

I have found that "less is more" with LBs. I also work with fibers and want a bar that is firm, but will slide well
Up the Beeswax to counter the grease factor and use 2 to 3 oils/butters. Maybe use 97 degree Coconut oil, rather than the more common 76 degree. Melt factors are a user's choice.

 

[KiwiMoose]

I second the absolute wonderful-ness that is @Zing's lotion bars. Yes, all the way over here in little ol' NZ I was able to obtain some.

 

[BWt]

I have two sizes of the twist tubes. I had bought a small amount of each for some idea that I had that didn't pan out and use them as 'testers/samplers" for craft fairs. They work great for applying the lotion bar, but then you generally use your hands to rub it in. LOL

@TheGecko Yes tubes that twist up! Convenient. I use them as well. The bottom fill are my favorites and they can be refilled again however I must remind my testers and friends/family to save save save the little plastic top that covers the ingredients. That little plastic top is what prevents the entire cap from being filled with product when filling from the bottom. Here is a link to what I consider fairly reasonably priced and high quality packaging. Have ordered from this source for a few years and very reliable. Just noticed they are out of the clear bottom fill tubes in larger sizes. home » DIY Deodorant Containers

 

[Ephemerella]

following with great interest and much wine and snacks

 

[TheGecko]

following with great interest and much wine and snacks

Dark Chocolate pairs well with a good Merlot

 

[A-Polly]

I have two sizes of the twist tubes. I had bought a small amount of each for some idea that I had that didn't pan out and use them as 'testers/samplers" for craft fairs. They work great for applying the lotion bar, but then you generally use your hands to rub it in. LOL

Oh that's funny! I use the tube just so I don't have to rub the stuff in!! The "lotion" spreads pretty well, and the stick is >1 inch wide so seems to cover my wrists and the backs of my hands/fingers pretty quickly. But I do live in a warm climate, maybe that makes a difference — although my office is way too cold, hmmm... not sure which would affect the lotion stick more. For sure I must always remember not to leave it in the car or outside in the sun.

P.S. I'm with you on the pairing of dark chocolate and merlot

 

[Nona'sFarm]

Just beginning to learn lotion bars. Thank you @AliOop for the IPM recommendation. Agree with @dibbles on Mango Butter. @TheGecko sounds like you have an outstanding choice of inventory! @Zing am using the 33/33/33 with 1% scent. The only variable is if the butter being used is a hard brittle type then I back off the Beeswax a bit. Want to share a recent lotion bar made with beeswax/tucuma butter/ Rosehip oil. It’s fast absorbing and a lovely color. Did another bar with Beeswax/Tucuma/Tamanu. Added a teeny bit of dried plantain which was super blended in vitamix with a bit of grapeseed. The plantain is very finely ground up giving a bit of exfoliation. Tamanu oil seems very difficult to scent. Went with patchouli/verbena/geranium/lemon eo mix (from Valerie Ann Worwood eo book). Tamanu not as absorbent. Am adding two links for info I use frequently. Oil absorption rates and Butter absorption rates.
https://beneficialbotanicals.com/absorption-rates-of-carrier-oils/https://www.newdirectionsaromatics....out-butters.amp#absorpotion-rates-of-butters.

I have used a similar chart since I started making balms. I try to balance both the beneficial qualities of oils and the absorption rates depending on their intended uses. For example, I include coconut oil in both my lip balm and foot balm. In fact most of my lip balms are only coconut oil and beeswax. I like the slow absorption rates for lip balm, acts as a barrier against dryness, and naturally has vitamin E. I use coconut oil (and also some faster absorbing oils) in my foot balm as I think some slower absorption is needed there and coconut oil has some antifungal properties. The oils in my hand salve are mostly in the average absorption category, though I do include a little palm, because I like the feel. But the oils are also chosen because of their other beneficial properties. No, I do not make any healing claims, but it is still important to me and most of my repeat customers are savvy to the benefits of certain oils.
If making lotion bars for the face, also pay attention to the comedogenic rating - ones to avoid are cocoa butter, coconut oil, palm oil, cupuacu butter, flax seed oil, red palm oil, and soybean oil. That being said, I have not had any issues with using coconut oil in lip balm and believe me, I am the first to break out if there is a possibility of it from a new product.
One final thought @TheGecko , is that if what you are using feels too greasy, stick mainly with the oils in the average to very fast absorbing categories. I have never had to use arrow root or other powder to cut greasiness, you may find that to be the case, too.

 

[BWt]

Information charts for oils are tremendously helpful when learning to blend and choose ingredients (that’s me, learning.) @Nona'sFarm am now remembering to check the comedogenic rating. Came across another chart recently. It’s helpful to print these out and keep in a binder for reference. Without a printer? Most office supply stores encourage emailing files to their stores for printing. Advantage here is getting an oversized print out on legal or ledger sized paper. Here is the chart courtesy of EW: https://blog.essentialwholesale.com.../EWL-Carrier-Oil-Chart-with-Substitutions.pdf