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LYE HEAVY LIQUID SOAP
NOTE!!! 3 UPDATES ARE AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS POST

Hi, Now I have a NEW problem. My liquid soaps have not been lye heavy, except for one time. That one time that it was zappy, I just let it cook longer, and then it was fine. It later, within hours, became good usable soap that was no longer zappy.

Now, yesterday I did 2 crock pots, running at the same time. One crock pot had a 1 pound batch going, and the 2nd crock pot had a 2 pound batch going. Both were Liquid Soap. Now, about 7 hours later went to check and BOTH batches were lye heavy and zappy. I turned on the heat (due to the fact I was using Irishlass recipe where you make your soap without the heat on) so I turned on the heat and remelted the zappy soap. About 4 hours later the 1 pound batch was no longer zappy and I even double checked using PHENOPHTHALEIN Drops. And the one pound batch did NOT turn pink when tested. But, the 2 pound batch DID turn pink when tested and the paste zapped me still. So, I cooked it on low all night long. Still zappy in the morning. I let the paste just Sit around all day, and checked it now tonight. It is still zappy and the paste still shows a bright pink.
So now what? If possible, I do NOT want to add any borax or citric acid to it, I do have this available if need be, but I just dont want to use it. Is it possible to just keep cooking it and it will turn into usable soap, eventually? I mean, the other crock worked out that way!! But with cooking it all night, you would think that would of been enough. So, ya, I am confused. I am open to suggestions as that is 2 full pounds of soap paste that I dont want to just throw away, I do believe somehow it is fixable. If I were the one answering this question for somebody else, I would just say keep cooking it longer....but...lol, I did that, 2 more times...and the 2nd time cooked for at least 8 hours. I really dont know what could of gone wrong. I do not that when I added the lye water to the ONE pound batch, the liquid with the oils was nice and runny, like water. But when I added the lye water to the TWO pound batch, it turned kind of thick...almost right away, almost as if I had used sodium instead of KOH....but I double checked, I did use Koh. Even now, the soap paste is paste, it looks like brown gravy that set up as apposed to shiny taffy like the one pound paste looks like. This thick gravy FEELS like taffy, but has a very plain look to it, not glossy at all. I am open to suggestions on how to fix a very high lye heavy paste. Can I just add some more oil to it, so that the lye has something to eat? lol

UPDATE!!!!!!
I went and started to re read all the posts from the start of this thread. I got to about number 50 thru 72 and in this zone I learned about a problem with somebody not adding enough glycerin, and had zappy soap. The end to it was that the person was informed to add the missing glycerin and re heat the paste. They did so and this made the paste turn into soap and show up not zappy later. The part about my ABOVE statement that I guess I forgot to add is that while mixing up and cooking my lye glycerin on the stove, I had about a full teaspoon of lye that was undesolved. I could not get it to ever desolve. I ended up taking that un desolved lye out and adding in some NEW lye, ABOUT the same amount as I took out. I placed back into my pot ABOUT the same amount of glycerin....so, 1:1....this is why I think I am lye heavy. I needed to add the glycerin in at a 3:1 amount. So, I am about to add approximately 4 teaspoons of glycerin back into the crock pot of paste, and put in on low to mix this in, then give it a few hours. I am in high hopes that this will do the trick and I will get a past that runs no pink with the Pheno drops later. And no tongue zap!! I could just add about 2 teaspoons glycerin in, but I am going to add 4 teaspoons in as the extra glycerin surely will not hurt it, I am just covering myself here. Oh well, live and learn. I will report back late tonight, or in the morning the outcome. This thread is SUPER VALUABLE to anybody doing liquid soap as it is starting to answer its OWN questions now. I see that MOST problems or issues have already been covered, this is good for the person who can not wait for a response, like me tonight. Re reading the thread gave me what I THINK is my answer. I will update later :)

OK UPDATE NUMBER 2

Its no good!! The glycerin I added did nothing. Been cooking it on low for 3 more hours. Still showing bright pink Pheno. I just added 1 full ounce of Castor Oil to the paste and mixed it in well. I figure its a 2 pound batch so one ounce of ANY oil shouldn't hurt it, well, any meaning the same oils I used to begin with. Anyway, yes, this is an experiment now for sure. Will this one ounce of castor oil help it??? I will report back yet another update later. Time will tell.(it really is super lye heavy I think, I have really BRIGHT pink pheno when its tested)

UPDATE NUMBER 3
Nope...Still pink pheno and the zap test is still zappy. I will not just turn off the crock pot and let it set up to paste overnight. Hopefully by morning it will be fine. But as of now everything I have done, adding the glycerin, adding an ounce of castor oil...nothing has worked. Not even a LONG cook time in the crock pot. oh well. I KNOW Irishlasses recipe works as I have made it over and over again with great success. This fault was my own, I truly thought taking out those bits of lye that were stubborn and would not melt, and then putting in new lye in its place, I really figured that would work. Maybe for someone else it might of, but for me, in this 24 hours portion of time, it did not. Ok folks, I bid you farwell and sleep well. I will check on the zappy paste in the morning.
 
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Glycerin will not saponify which is why adding it will not affect the excess lye in your soap paste. Add a bit more oil to give the excess lye something to saponify.
 
Glycerin will not saponify which is why adding it will not affect the excess lye in your soap paste. Add a bit more oil to give the excess lye something to saponify.


I Did end up giving the paste some castor oil...a full ounce. This morning it is STILL running pink on the pheno test, and still zaps....BUT, I can tell you that if finally looks like transparent Paste!!! Last night it looked like brown gravy that set up....today it LOOKS like paste...so, a least its starting to move in the right direction. I am GUESSING that I need to add a bit more oil to it. Olive is a good idea, I just felt good about going with Castor last night...so far, so good. A change in the right direction....but yet, not their just yet. I will give yet another ounce of oil...Thank you for your help FGOriold, I so very much appreciate your response, and your help!
 
And figure out why your lye is not dissolving before using it again. You should NEVER add undissolved lye to oils. You be sure every last grain of lye is dissolved before adding to oils.

I totally AGREE with you Susie, and thats why I DID NOT add any un disolved lye to my oils....which is what got me into trouble trying to "FIX THINGS" On my my own by taking out the un desolved Lye, and trying to RE ADD new lye about the same weight. But its the GUESSING that got me into trouble, I did not weigh the lye I took out against what I put back in. Yes, a rookie mistake. I have made now 19 batches of Liquid soap, but in the scope of things, a rookie mistake indeed.
Also, Agree that I surely needed to find out why my lye was not disolving. You see, Every time I have made the soap I only have been making it at a 1 pound batch size. So, I got USED TO MY WAYS....bad bad...you see, I got used to the way the KOH Melted on the stove very fast with the Glycerin....well, when I did that 2 pound batch, My mind still was in the mode of "Hey, How come this is taking so long to dissolve?" In reality, it wasn't, but that is the problem when somebody gets USED to something. Its like when you go to work every day for a year, you barely have to think to drive to work. But the moment they put in a change, due to road construction, They end up having lots of accidents on the road all because of the fact people got way to used to the route they were taking. I had been making so many batches of soap with my Hubby, that We got used to how things look and feel along with melting times..so, when that LARGER amount of KOH Was not melting fast enough, instead of slowing down to think, we just decided that something was wrong with the KOH and just took out what ever was melting slow...and tried to replace it thinking that it had to be the Koh, and NOT us, or our temperature, or simply TIME.....
So....We again last night did yet another 2 pound batch of Liquid soap...This time determined to find out was thier something wrong with the KOH or us or what?!?!
Well, we again got to a part where the KOH wasn't melting...we took a deep breath and said to each other "OK, Lets be patient here, give it a few more minutes". And we did, we did just that, it was simply a TIME issue, only took a mere two extra minutes to dilute the extra Lye, but you see, when you have done batch after batch and you get to the part of melting the Lye, and it takes say 3 to 4 minutes to melt a small of amount of Lye....5 to 6 or 7 minutes feels like forever!! MY BAD!!
They say that making mistakes is not a bad thing due to that fact that every mistake is a point in learning. Well, what we both learned tonight is that EACH TIME...thats right, each time we make a batch of Soap, be it liquid or regular bar soap, we need to treat it like its the first time. Auto Pilot Soaping has no place in our lives, the same way Auto Pilot Driving has no place for us on the road. That kind of functioning or lack their off, gets one into trouble. So, this mistake has given us a new edge! A new way of soaping that we believe will make us better. Yes, we learn from our mistakes, and we had to stop and ask ourselves this very basic of quistions: "Why are we in such a hurry?"lol.....its a HOBBY, NOT A CAREER!! So....ya, we learned to slow down and enjoy the road a bit more, enjoy our Hobby instead of just getting to Letter Z. We learned that its not about getting to the end that matters, we learned to enjoy the Journey.
Thank you Susie for your information and your reply. We know what you have said is true, we just simply rushed things. Good thing we both get to soap yet another day :)
 
I always use glycerin amounts as 3 x the weight of the KOH when doing full glycerin method - any less and my KOH just won't fully dissolve. I also find it easier to add the KOH to room temperature glycerin, then slowly heat the two together to allow the KOH to dissolve. I find that much easier, neater and safer than adding KOH to hot glycerin.
 
I always use glycerin amounts as 3 x the weight of the KOH when doing full glycerin method - any less and my KOH just won't fully dissolve. I also find it easier to add the KOH to room temperature glycerin, then slowly heat the two together to allow the KOH to dissolve. I find that much easier, neater and safer than adding KOH to hot glycerin.

I agree, this is the ONLY way I ever make my soap. Right on!!
 
my soap paste is still zappy even after all my atempts to make it go to neutral.....sigh!!!
I do not know how to do the whole add borax thing....looks like I might be forced to do this unless somebody has a way for me to fix my soap naturally....cause thats what I wanted. I dont have a clue as to how much borax to add or even what to do....looks like more research....me is tired:???: but still happy with life :grin:
 
Here is what I followed along with the Link to help my zappy Paste after I did everything possible to help it not be zappy, I was forced to add some Borax to it:

http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/liquidsoap/a/neutralizeliq.htm

To neutralize using the Summer Bee Meadow method:
Make a 5% solution of either boric acid or borax:
.5 oz. boric acid OR borax
9.5 oz. nearly boiling distilled water
To hot soap paste, add 4 tbs. of your neutralizing solution per 8 oz. of soap paste. (For 1 lb. of soap paste, add 8 tbs. For 2 lbs. of soap paste, add 16 tbs. of neutralizer. Etc.)
To be extra safe, test your liquid soap with Phenolphthalein pH Indicator.
After you've neutralized the soap, dilute and sequester the soap as you normally would. Using either method, the neutralization gives you nice clear soap that is still mild to the skin.

Ok, So I made up my Borax Solution and for me I thought I would only add HALF of the amount of Borax Solution and then test with the Pheno Drops. Good thing I went with my gut feeling on it as it only took HALF of my Borax solution and now tested CLEAR as a bell with the Pheno Drops!! Praise God!! This has been several days on this soap paste and I feel bad I had to resort to adding some Borax. Plus, that was a hard call altogether too as I have BORIC Powder, CITRIC Acid and the BORAX Powder...I had to figure out what would be the BEST to use...and It was no easy answer. But, atlas, I used the Borax and I have crystal clear and NON Zappy Soap!! YEA!!
I love this liquid soap thread, I think it will really help allot of NEW soapers, even some old ones too :)
 
Yep, works every time. And you're right about starting in the light side, you can always add more
 
Yep, works every time. And you're right about starting in the light side, you can always add more

Yes True True Soapgirltami!! This was the FIRST time I have ever had to add borax to my soap and nobody tolled me that, it was just a gut feeling to add some, then check it before adding all of the borax mix. Glad I did that too, cause it came out just wonderful. Thing is, I noticed that my soap is thicker now....I mean it, This liquid soap is taking allot more water to dilute due to the fact that I added the borax. I dont know if that is something that normally happens, but on Irishlasses soap recipe, I always am fine with diluting at 75%...to one part paste. But, I am being forced to dilute at 1:1 and I could even go with more water. That Borax made it thick...it made it so thick that their is no way that I could do 75% water. hhhhhmmmm, so, for me I am thinking anytime I have super thin soap, maybe just a touch of Borax would help it thicken up. Interesting
 
"That Borax made it thick...it made it so thick that their is no way that I could do 75% water. hhhhhmmmm, so, for me I am thinking anytime I have super thin soap, maybe just a touch of Borax would help it thicken up."

In Catherine Failor's book "Making Natural Liquid Soaps" she discusses the use of borax at length. To quote her, "Borax is the 'silver bullet' of liquid soapmaking. It enhances and stabilizes foam, softens hard water, buffers pH, and acts as a preservative. Borax is also invaluable for creating more concentrated soap solutions because of it's ability to both emulsify and thicken."

I know she uses borax primarily as a neutralizer because she did all her wonderful work before online lye calculators were available, so her recipes are lye heavy. It also allows you to play a bit with dilution percentages. I also know many people don't like to use borax due to a skin sensitivity or just personal preference. It's also banned in the EU so that's a consideration. Personally, I use it when I want to because it doesn't bother my skin or my husband's. It also has the benefit of a pH that's 9.2 so it won't over-neutralize your soap. Borax is a topic that's a bit controversial and it's use is personal choice to each soap maker.

I'm really glad you sorted out your lye heavy soap in the end, CookbookChef! Every time I have a problem like that, I look at it as a huge learning experience. I certainly have a lot of learning experiences in my life, lol!
 
Another thing to keep in mind is that borax will not thicken all diluted liquid soaps equally. If your soap has a high proportion of coconut oil or PKO, borax may not thicken the soap at all.
 
Great thread! I've been reading it for the last couple of days and now I have an itch to try and make LS.
I will be ordering KOH and glycerine after the holidays, can't wait. :)
I hope to follow original recipe by IrishLass , except maybe to cook the paste like in the video. Just to get an idea how it works.
So, just to clarify again, no need to use neutraliser if correct amount and type of KOH is used in the lye calculator?
And also, will this kind of LS work in one of those foaming soap dispensers?
Will OO plus let's say sunflower and castor oil make a good LS, will it foam a bit at least, while still being gentle?
Sorry, I know it might have been mentioned but I just want to be sure.
I have a friend with terrible eczema on hands but she was told to use shop bought stuff that says it's for eczema but it still contains SLS and other nasties. I want to make something really gentle and see if that works for her.
Thanks all!
 
no need to use neutraliser if correct amount and type of KOH is used in the lye calculator?

Yes, you're correct if you do the following:

If you use the Summerbeemeadow calc, choose KOH, and use 1-3% superfat.

Or use Soapcalc, choose KOH, check 90% purity, and use 1-3% superfat. I would also increase the water content when using Soapcalc so your lye solution concentration is 25% -- that means three parts water and one part lye. The default settings for Soapcalc don't give enough water for liquid soap recipes.

And also, will this kind of LS work in one of those foaming soap dispensers?

Any LS will work in a foamer IF you add enough water to make the diluted soap fairly watery. Start a bit on the too-thick side, try it in a foamer, add a bit more water if it doesn't foam nicely, repeat. Keep track of your dilution so you don't have to reinvent the wheel when you do it again. The dilution amount that works best will depend on the recipe.

Will OO plus let's say sunflower and castor oil make a good LS, will it foam a bit at least, while still being gentle?

If I were to give you a suggestion, stick with Irish Lass' recipe for your first batch or two, then branch out if you want. Her recipe really is a winner -- it's mild to the skin and foams well, the paste dilutes easily to a nice syrupy consistency if that's what you want, the soap paste is easy to make, and the diluted soap is crystal clear. Her recipe will give you a good base line from which to judge any recipes you might create.

I'm not the best person to ask about designing good LS recipes from scratch. Maybe Susie or Irish Lass will give you their thoughts on your idea for an OO, sunflower, and castor LS recipe.
 
Unless you have some reason not to use coconut oil or PKO, you need to have one of those for bubbles. I am going to second the "use IrishLass' recipe and method" motion. Stick with something you know works for your first attempt. Then you can branch off after you know how the whole process works. Just getting your friend away from the SLS and other chemicals may be enough to "cure" the eczema. It worked for me. And it is the perfect place for her to start figuring out what is causing the problem. Does she use your handmade bar soap? The less commercial soap I used, the better my eczema got, that included laundry soap.
 
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Thanks ladies!
DeaAnna, thanks for pointing out few things I missed, there's lots of info in this thread and easy to get overwhelmed. Supplier of KOH I am planning to order from states it's 90% pure so I will definitely follow that lye calculator.
Susie, I was planning on using original IrishLass recipe and if it works well, start to formulate different recipes. I might just drop the % of CO as experiment later on and see how it works out in regards to reducing harshness while still having some bubble action.
My friend is scared of using bar soap, even though I've given her some. Dr said it's bad so it must be true, right. :) She told me she's using this particular brand of washes and lotions sold in Australia that's aimed for people with eczema, but on my closer inspection, it contains tones of chemicals, one of them SLS. I want to eventually formulate gentle LS that she will be willing to try. She doesn't really know what's causing it, other than that commercial liquid soaps, shower gels, dish-washing detergents etc are making it worse.
 
She sounds just like how my skin was acting. I was out of options. I had used every prescription and doctor recommended product out there. Hand made soap was a life changer for me. I do wish she would try your soap. But you can't force her.
 
Hey Irishlass! Sorry to bother you once again, but whenever i hear so nice comments about your recipe,i want to give it another try..i made four batches using your recipe,but none looked good as yours in the pic..neither my stages go as mentioned by you.. i followed each and everything as guided by you..but i dont know what goes wrong.. as i stir my mixture,it turns into a white paste after sometime.. twice i cooked it till gel stage,but this time i left it as it is to see if it turns into Vaseline like itself..but nothing happened after around 12 hours..so i cooked that also till Vaseline-honey like..but when i used water at 75% of paste,it again got thick white..i added little more water and it turned dark amber colored liquid.. not much thick.. so i wonder if my oils are not good or may be i added more water..or my lye is not good? I used coconut oil that gets hard at low temperatures, pomace olive oil,and castor oil..my lye was 85% pure.. so i used this calculation- please check it -
For 500 grams i used
Castor oil-50g, coconut oil-125g, olive oil-325g, water-159g, glycerin-150g(total liquid-300g), lye-117g..
I got paste weight as 842 g, so i multiplied by 0.75, that gave 632 g water.. but it got thick,so i added 180 g more water..thats it. I wanna give it one more try :p
 
Finally throwing my hat in to the ring on LS. My KOH will be here tomorrow so I will be itching and staring at the clock at work tomorrow waiting to get home and get the show on the road. This thread has been a wonderful tool so thank you to everyone who contributed to it! That being said below is my recipe. I decided on 1% superfat just to allow for a margin of error and I put in at a 25% lye solution (I tried SBM advanced calc but it is too busy for me and I am so used to soapcalc. I am glad IrishLass brought up awhile ago about the difference in water/glycerine ratio between the two calcs!) I am sure this recipe will be fine but I just wanted to see if anything stands out to the pros:

Untitled.jpg
 
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