Safety testing of lotion

[AnnaMarie]

Hi all.
So I have been reading the Safe Cosmetics Act and trying to make sense of what I need to do if I sell lotion. Does anyone else have their lotion products safety tested? If so, what does it cost? Also, I have seen kits on Making Cosmetics website that let you do your own safety testing. Is this legit? In addition, I read that if materials used to make the product were safety tested that is all that is needed although the FDA can order you to test your product if they feel it is warranted. Did I understand this correctly? I'm trying to do my homework on this....thank you for any advice!
Cheers!
Anna Marie

 

[grayceworks]

I had a long reply typed out and my tablet rebooted when I hit submit. Give me a minute to grumble at it and I'll try again!

 

[grayceworks]

Ok, so the kits are fine for spot-checking new recipes periodically, but when you are satisfied with a recipe and think you've got it properly preserved then you want to have it professionally tested. I generally get it done -- and this is me -- I will make a fresh batch of the recipe, do a test with the kit at 2 weeks, and if it still holds up like previous batches, I'll send it off at the 1-month mark for testing. Then if that comes back good, I keep part of that batch for another 11 months, checking it periodically, with the kit, and also checking to see how it reacts with the packaging, temperature variations, etc. If all is well then, i'll send it in for a second professional test, and then if that is good, it gets added to my permanent recipe book for stuff i can feel safe selling.

It seems like it's a lot of waiting and work, but not really in the grand scheme, because 1-it's best to be safe and ensure you have a safe product, and 2- it gives my guinea pigs---errr--- willing volunteers time to help me thoroughly test it over time, and really most of the time it's just tucked away on a shelf while i work on other ideas. I keep track of every batch and make sure there's a batch number on the label, and keep a sample in storage for reference in case i ever have to troubleshoot an issue. Thankfully i haven't had problems so far, but i learned to be very meticulous about it from a friends mistakes early into my adventures in making home-made body products.

I only sell lotions and body and hair stuff very very small scale right now, locally by word of mouth. But when i do finally expand, all my habits and processes will be ingrained i hope, and make it easy to continue to grow. for now though, with my health, very very small is all I can manage, so I'm just doing baby steps, and one of these years, maybe I'll be able to go full-scale. Gotta have dreams!

 

[AnnaMarie]

Thank you Grayceworks for taking the time to respond so graciously! Would you mind if I asked you how much a professional lab safety testing costs you?
Cheers!
Anna Marie

 

[grayceworks]

Well, it depends a lot on what you're having done. Anywhere from basic microbial testing to full-on challenge testing of not just the preservative effectiveness but also stability testing over a period of time. Basic testing, depending on your lab, can range from $10 per sample to $50 per sample. I get the full bacteria, yeast, and mold testing done for about $35 per sample. This is not testing over a period of time, just a single point-in-time test, so it should be repeated.

Now, I just get the microbial assays done, and I monitor the stability of the product on my own for color and scent and consistency changes, emulsion breakdown, reaction with the container/package, etc. in a variety of conditions, such as varying temperatures, lighting, and humidity. But previously, I've had the full testing done over a year's period (ugh I hate waiting) for about $470, but that was a while back, so I don't know the current going rate on that. I do suggest if you're going to be selling though, that you have this done at least once for the formula you are going to be using with the preservative you are going to be using with the packaging you are going to be using. Because the packaging can be affected by the product and vice-versa, and the report they give you will alert you to areas you should be thinking of when you go on to making your future products and observing and testing them for changes.

I am pretty satisfied with the safety if I have the original unused product professionally tested within safe limits at 4wks, and 12months, and also professionally test a used sample at the same intervals for comparison with real-world usage, with my own tests via the test kits in-between those intervals. By the end of that time, I can also see if there's been any changes in the other properties of the product as well, so then I can feel safe in assigning it a shelf-life and adding it to my recipe book.
(So that's 4 tests per new formula plus at least half a test kit per new formula, adds up to approx $180, not counting if a recipe fails a test and I have to start again... and not counting the quality testing I do for each batch thereafter)

ETA: I say 12 months, because I really don't think a lotion or conditioner is worth making if it's not going to last that long... I used to make a hair gel that only had a shelf-life of 3 months, even properly preserved, and it was a PITA to keep up with so I dropped it and only make it for myself now.

 

[AnnaMarie]

Thank you Grayceworks for all the great info and letting me pick your brain- and you're so pleasant about it . I am definitely a ways off from selling cream lotion ( although I have a nice recipe I have developed), but I do sell lotion bars and I am thinking that I should start looking at safety testing.
Cheers!
Anna Marie

 

[grayceworks]

Now, I've made body-butters and lotions and creams and soaps and conditioners and lip-balms with no problem. But for some reason, I'm afraid to make lotion bars. That, and emulsified scrubs. Is that weird? It's funny the things we are afraid of sometimes. lol

I'm sure once I actually get the nerve up to try it I'll be fine.

 

[AnnaMarie]

Lol! I love lotion bars because they saved my poor hands! They are soooo simple to make- nothing to fear . I would be happy to help you with a recipe should you decide to make them.
Cheers!
Anna Marie