On the drawing board

[John Harris]

My next project:

My first (real) swirl - a 20 bar, two color ITP. Dark blue and light blue with a blueberry FO. (Has anybody used blueberry FO before? I can't imagine it would have much appeal, but I have the blues and I have 16 oz of the FO.)

I am wondering: should I pour the light blue into the dark, or the other way around?

 

[Pamela Carver]

My next project:

My first (real) swirl - a 20 bar, two color ITP. Dark blue and light blue with a blueberry FO. (Has anybody used blueberry FO before? I can't imagine it would have much appeal, but I have the blues and I have 16 oz of the FO.)

I am wondering: should I pour the light blue into the dark, or the other way around?

Are you using equal amounts of each color? If so it may not make much difference, you could alternate some. If I were using more of one I would pour the accent (lesser amount) into the base color. Good luck and have fun!

 

[lsg]

I usually do an in-the-pot swirl and add darker colors to my lighter base.

 

[John Harris]

I've written a check list so I won't forget anything in the heat of the two color ITP swirling.
Does this sound right? Any suggestions welcome.

Blueberry ITP Swirl

Mix the oils
Add the scent
Add the lye
Bring to emulsion
Pour some into a pitcher
Color the pot
Color the pitcher
Pour the pitcher into the pot in three places and at three levels: high, medium, and low.
Leave some in the pitcher.
Once around with the spatula
Pour into the mold
Dribble the remainder over the top
Swirl with a skewer.

I could call this "John's No Think Method".

 

[AliOop]

Usually one would add the scent after splitting and coloring. That way, you will have completed as many other steps as you can before the scent accelerates the batter, like so many of them do.

 

[MellonFriend]

Make sure you disperse your micas in a lightweight oil. They will mix in better that way.

 

[John Harris]

Make sure you disperse your micas in a lightweight oil. They will mix in better that way.

There was an oversight - I didn't allow for color prep!
How do you account for that lightweight oil in your recipe computations?

 

[Ford]

Hi, I have been taking batch oils. Everything combined, before lye solution. To mix mine in. Thinking this way does not add. Any additional oils. I use 3-4oz paper cups. Just dip and mix. About an oz of oil. Work's for me. Your mileage may vary. Insert just after "mix the oils".

 

[MellonFriend]

There was an oversight - I didn't allow for color prep!
How do you account for that lightweight oil in your recipe computations?

I actually don't worry about it. I use only about a tablespoon of oil per teaspoon of mica. I figure it will not make that big a difference in the soap, maybe just a slightly higher percent super fat. I'm a newbie though so maybe there are different opinions.

 

[cerelife]

Which Blueberry FO are you using? I love BB Blueberry Jam because it doesn't discolor, doesn't accelerate, and has a great blueberry scent that doesn't fade! I named it "On Blueberry Hill" and many people (of a certain age) picked it up while singing "I found my thrill..." It's a good seller for me.
I don't disperse my micas in oil, I add them directly to the batter. IME it makes no difference at all when using quality micas from reputable sources, so why make more work for yourself? Oxides, AC, TD are a different story.
As for which shade of blue should be poured into the other - like someone else said - if you're using equal amounts it really shouldn't matter.
If you're doing more like 2/3 and 1/3, then the larger amount is your base and the smaller your accent color. If you've got the heavy blues then I would make the dark your base and the light your accent. For a mild case of the blues I would do the opposite.
Looking forward to seeing your creation!

 

[ResolvableOwl]

Are your dark vs. light blue colours two pigments, one more cyan-ish, one more in an ultramarine-indigo hue? Or do you just use one colourant and add it at different rates?

If you're using one colour at two concentrations, I'd for some reason recommend you to split the batter not into equal parts, but budget a greater quantity for the lighter, and less for the darker batter.
With two different colourants probably too.

And don't underestimate how much less pigment you'll need for a light colour. Dye the dark batter first (with pre-dispersed pigment), and only then judge colourant addition to the light batter for a decent contrast.

Finally, consider pouring a tiny bit of either batter into a small mould, and take notes about colourant usage rates. So you can with time build up a “library” of how your pigments perform in your soap. Or debug staining issues.



Oh poor @John Harris, you just wanted to do a “simple” design – you've hardly opened your mouth, but you're already besieged with good advice again!

 

[Mobjack Bay]

If your recipe base is not very white and/or is translucent when it gels, you should also consider how those factors will influence the outcome of a lighter color. Pale blues can be tricky. My strategy would be to use a pale shade of mica at the recommended rate or to add a small bit of TD or white mica to the base along with the darker colorant.

 

[KiwiMoose]

1. I often add the FO to the oils before mixing the lye, but if it's known accelerant I don't.
2. Are you sure the FO won't discolour? You might end up with a grey/green soap if so.
3. I like Mobjack's idea of adding TD and a small amount of the main colour for your light blue.
4. Go for a medium trace before pouring if you want better definition than the one I posted in your other thread.
5. I quite like a 3/4 :1/4 ratio for main colour to accent colour. But that's just me - there are many ways to skin a cat.
6. Soap do what soap do

 

[Whillow]

I was rewatching a Royalty Soap video last night and she was using a blueberry FO (sorry don't remember which one) and she said it discolours to a very dark brown. Might have been a blueberry pie scent I don't really remember. Check that FO's write up perhaps before you use it.

 

[LynetteO]

If your recipe base is not very white and/or is translucent when it gels, you should also consider how those factors will influence the outcome of a lighter color. Pale blues can be tricky. My strategy would be to use a pale shade of mica at the recommended rate or to add a small bit of TD or white mica to the base along with the darker colorant.

NOW, after two failed attempts, I read “pale blues can be tricky”.

 

[John Harris]

Are your dark vs. light blue colours two pigments, one more cyan-ish, one more in an ultramarine-indigo hue? Or do you just use one colourant and add it at different rates?

If you're using one colour at two concentrations, I'd for some reason recommend you to split the batter not into equal parts, but budget a greater quantity for the lighter, and less for the darker batter.
With two different colourants probably too.

And don't underestimate how much less pigment you'll need for a light colour. Dye the dark batter first (with pre-dispersed pigment), and only then judge colourant addition to the light batter for a decent contrast.

Finally, consider pouring a tiny bit of either batter into a small mould, and take notes about colourant usage rates. So you can with time build up a “library” of how your pigments perform in your soap. Or debug staining issues.



Oh poor @John Harris, you just wanted to do a “simple” design – you've hardly opened your mouth, but you're already besieged with good advice again!

Thank you all for so much good advice! I will study it all and plot my course.

I have to chuckle a little as I tell you that I am going into this blind. All the ingredients I have are ancient and I have no idea how they will perform! I bought them from different suppliers over 20 years ago! I know the scents still work well as I used a dozen of them 2 years ago with no problems. The soaps I made then still smell great. The colorants, I figure, will be fine also. (BTW, my spell checker shows "colour", "colourant", and "mould" as all misspelled! )

I will give you a full update once I finally take the plunge.

 

[John Harris]

Oxides, AC, TD are a different story.

What is AC?

 

[MrsZ]

What is AC?

Activated charcoal.

 

[amd]

Has anybody used blueberry FO before? I can't imagine it would have much appeal,

Yes! I use NG's Blueberry - it's fantastic to work with and slows trace in my recipe. I made 54 bars of this soap and have sold 40-ish since the beginning of the year.

 

[John Harris]

I finally rounded up my scent and colorants. I have 2/3 of a 16 oz. bottle of Blueberry FO. I don't smell blueberry at all, but my soaping partner says it reeks of blueberry.

In the colorant department I have Ultramarine Blue and Light Blue Pigment. However, in the jars, they both look identical, that is, like Ultramarine Blue. Maybe if I added some TD to the Light Blue pigment I could produce a actual Light Blue.

Everything is from Brambleberry.