Glycolic Acid cream!!!

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Well-Known Member
Feb 11, 2008
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I made up a batch of cream using Prolipid 141 and BTMS Condtioning Emulsifier. The batch was looking so good, thick, creamy, just what I wanted. Then at cool down I added Optiphen Plus and my FO and the emulsion fell apart. It went all watery. It did thicken up a little bit more after setting but not nearly where I want it.

I did have glycolic acid in there. Could that have done it? The whole batch would have been a 5% solution if it held together.

Has anyone worked with Glycolic Acid is creams? Any suggestions on emulisifiers?

Help!!! :)
Glycolic acid will some times separate your emulsion but not if you add it with the water.I think your problem is the Optiphen.Mine usually separates
or goes really thin.Leave adding it till its quite cool.Then stick blend the hell out of it & it will thicken back up.Next morning you will find its fine.
I always use Optiphen & have made 100s of litres.I dont use parabens.
cheers Linda
Thank you so much! I really want this to work! :) It was driving me CRAZY. I used BTMS, NatruMulse, ProLipd 141 and regular good old E-Wax and they all turned out the same. I love Optiphen due to no parabens as well.

Again, Thanks!!

I'll let you know how it turns out.
Just wanted to let you know that it worked. I let it cool to 90 degrees and then added the Optiphen. I mixed it with the stick blender like crazy and I got a nice think cream. I even made it strong. I made a 20% Glycolic acid cream peal (personal use) and it worked GREAT! I monitor it to see if it stays together. If it falls apart again I will let you know.

Thanks again!
glycolic cream

Would you mind sharing a few tips on making this. I have tried and like you it always thins. I heard it will do that.

Dmae will do the same thing turn things to a liquid. have you tried making any of that??

I actually abandoned the cream and went for a serum made with HEC. It works so much better! I did get the cream thick enough but it was only after trial and error and error and error:) And I can even remember what I did to get a thick cream either.

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