Castille Soap

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Dragonkaz

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I've been researching how to make castille soap ... but I still have questions.

I thought making castille was about adding lye to olive oil ... stick blend until trace ... put in moulds ... unmould when ready ... leave to cure ... which will take longer due to this being a soft oil soap. But my research has come up with a mixture of responses to questions I need answers to before I make castille. Please help ...

I have olive oil and extra virgin olive oil ... which would you recommend?

I've read about differing % superfatting ... can you please tell what's worked best for you?

Plus any other hints would be appreciated!

Thanks heaps and have a wonderful weekend of soaping!
 
I've used only regular olive and olive pomace never evoo, too spensive. Didn't notice a huge difference between the two the reg. was only a slight bit lighter.

I usually use my regular SF # which is 7.

Use a water discount or you will be waiting til next month to unmold! 40%
 
I'm no expert, but I use EVOO since it's actually cheaper out here than the regular one. And I don't like pomace.
I superfat at 6% and it still is really mild. My lye concentration was 35%, next time I'll do 40%, though I was able to unmold and cut it the next day. It was almost too late!
 
PrairieCraft said:
I've used only regular olive and olive pomace never evoo, too spensive. Didn't notice a huge difference between the two the reg. was only a slight bit lighter.

I usually use my regular SF # which is 7.

Use a water discount or you will be waiting til next month to unmold! 40%
Same here.
 
I use evoo, I like to do my castille soap as hp just to help make it harder, faster. When I do cp, I use a 50/50 lye solution and 7% superfat. I love it for kids and people with really sensitive skin :)
 
Kaz, I made one the other night with one of your local olive oils (EVOO) that I bought at a market last year. I used 8% lye discount, 40% water discount and cut it after 24 hours. I let it gel. It was too hard to cut with the wire cutter so I used the dough scraper.




Please note that my bench top is not pink, rather it's a beigey, chook egg colour and the soap is yellower than that. I'll put another photo on.


 
I didn't start this thread, but thanks everyone for the advice! I want to make castille soap for my 1.5 children (#2 due at Christmas!). Does anyone scent it or do you leave it unscented? I'm thinking of using vanilla since my hubby's favorite scent is vanilla. Might get him to use the soap/help with washing the kids. :)
 
Thanks so much for your replies!

Water discount ... If I want to set this to 40% ... which line is this on SoapCalc? Is it 'Water as a % of oils?' I'm confused as I thought the % would be reduced not increased ... or maybe I just don't understand.
 
... I went back to my research and I think I've got some figures worked out.

How does a lye ratio of 1.5:1 sound ... which I read was equal to a lye concentration of 40%. This certainly lowers the water considerably, which should help with the soap hardening for unmoulding. I understand it will still take a while to cure ... at least six weeks, preferrably longer.

Another question ... temperature to soap at ... is it true that I should warm the olive oil and soap at a hotter temp, like 48.8C (120 F)?
 
I believe they are talking about lye concentration on the Soapcalc form. Using less water is a higher concentration. A lye concentration of 40% would be a ratio of 1.5:1. Soapcalc will give you a warning message when you print out the recipe but just ignore it. Your soap will be warmer than normal when you add the lye solution and it will probably trace sooner. Your soap will be harder because it has less water in it and it will shrink much less. I normally use a ratio of 1.3:1 and have very good results.

Br Nicholas
 
Yes, it's about 1 part lye to 1.5 parts of water. I soaped at about 45 C. I also don't stand there for ages and stick blend. I blend until it's all blended nicely and go away for a while and come back and blend some more. I do this for about an hour when using EVOO as it takes time to trace. :wink:
 
Thanks!

I was going to make some castille today, but then decided to make some more coffee soap in stead!

I think I'll do a 1.5:1 and superfat at 7% ... and I'll warm the oils to the high 40's ... and hopefully I'll have something of interest to report.

I've been soaping for over a year ... and I've always soaped at 38%, with a superfat of 5% ... same as the default settings on SoapCalc ... can't believe I've never changed these! This addiction sure is about learning and learning and learning ... and knowing you've always got more to learn!
 
Question: I am preparing to make castile soap with 40% water discount and 7% superfat. I added the lye to the water (seems to be a 1.5:1 ratio) and there are crystals still in the water. What should I do?
 
stir and wait until it dissolves. :wink: if you need to add a tiny bit more water.
 
I really want to try a true Castille, but I'm reluctant because I've read it produces low-lather and can get slimy.

If you don't mind me asking, just what is it about Castille that you all like?
 
I have honestly never tried a castille before. I'm making a small batch for my kids. 5 or 6 bars. I have some left over olive oil and am waiting for my coconut oil to arrive so figured I'd try a castille.

New question, when I was researching what to do about my lye crystals, I though I read something about the oil being warmer than the lye to make sure all the lye disolved. I was planning to mix at room temperature since I don't need to melt any oil. Do I have to warm the oil or can I do it at room temp?
 
The lather of a true 100% castille is different to that of other cp/hp soaps which utilise other veg oils. In my experience it's more lotion-like.
The slime factor is down to the high oleic acid content of the olive oil, and it isn't to everyone's taste, but it does produce a lovely, mild soap. :)
 
tryanything said:
New question, when I was researching what to do about my lye crystals, I though I read something about the oil being warmer than the lye to make sure all the lye disolved. I was planning to mix at room temperature since I don't need to melt any oil. Do I have to warm the oil or can I do it at room temp?
no, you don not need to warm the oils - I've never had lye crystals come out of solution. not to say it couldn't happen with extreme temps, but it won't.
 

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