To insulate or not??

[shivani]

I made my first and second batch last month..i insulated very well..wrapped in towel,then blankets..all the oil came up,and soap did not set till date..m using it as a liquid handwash..the next I made,i kept on checking it..i wrapped in a towel and blanket..n in 15 min I checked..it was again all oil on top and too hot to touch..i just mixed it all together with a spoon..all swirls,colors I used were mixed into a single color.. i then left it open..nd it hardened quickly..n set up till morning..
So m very confused on this insulation and gel..which ones to insulate and gel and which ones to keep in freezer and avoid gel..

 

[JessieD]

What temperature are you soaping at? Are you just doing straight cold process or are you cold process oven process?

As far as which is which, it seems to be personal preference mostly. I tried to stop my Goat's milk soap from gelling because the heat from the sugars in the milk as well as the honey I added can be quite high and will turn milk soap a dark brown. Beyond that…all I have read is that if it gels, it's cured quicker because saponification happens quickly. Some people say that gelled bars have a different feel than non gelled bars. Some prefer gelled, some prefer non gelled. I wish I could help you more than that. Maybe someone else has more insight for you.

 

[pamielynn]

First of all.... stop peeking!! Let the soap do it's thing - the process takes hours.

If you want to gel - wrap it up (if I'm making a recipe I know will heat up, I leave a space in the lid so it won't overheat and make cracks) and leave it alone until it cools down. But this also depends on your mold. I have wood molds and plastic molds - the wood ones require less insulation as they hold the heat much better.

If you don't want to gel, stick the mold in the fridge or freezer for a few hours to stunt it's growth, so to speak. But don't peek! You'll introduce warmer air.

The difference in "to gel or not to gel" is personal preference. After a good cure, I can't tell the diff. BUT, non-gelled do take longer to harden up. I don't gel when I'm using titanium dioxide. Some people don't gel if they've got a real heater of a recipe, such as milks or honey.

 

[shivani]

thanx!! i kind of got it..i added beeswax in all batches.. insulated ones went bad,and non-isulated were good..means beeswax produced heat bcoz of sugar contents..but if I keep in fridge,will it harden? Bcoz of two back to back failed batches m quite afraid of insulating.

 

[Mrs.Larios]

I've have read that your lye water and oils should be 10 degrees apart from each other to make sure they mix correctly you can try checking the temp while you are making the soap

 

[boyago]

Can you post your recipe and mixing method? Sounds to me like the batter isn't getting totally mixed or is presenting a false trace and is separating in the mold when left to sit. Anybody else think?

 

[kikajess]

I've been curious about the option to gel or not, too. If I decide beforehand I don't want a soap to gel, would it be a good idea to mix the lye and oils at a lower temperature, say 80-degrees?

 

[pamielynn]

I've been curious about the option to gel or not, too. If I decide beforehand I don't want a soap to gel, would it be a good idea to mix the lye and oils at a lower temperature, say 80-degrees?

It would help. You can always mix up your lye solution the night before you soap as long as it's kept in a safe place. This way it will be at room temp when you're ready to soap.

 

[judymoody]

thanx!! i kind of got it..i added beeswax in all batches.. insulated ones went bad,and non-isulated were good..means beeswax produced heat bcoz of sugar contents..but if I keep in fridge,will it harden? Bcoz of two back to back failed batches m quite afraid of insulating.

If you are using beeswax you are probably soaping at very hot temperatures to keep the wax in suspension. That plus insulation is probably what is making your soap separate (this is a sign of overheating or possibly false trace but I suspect the former).

If you are in a hot climate, you probably don't need to insulate.

Beeswax doesn't have sugars like honey so I can't imagine that it is heating up your soap other than the fact that it has a high melt point.

Personally, I'd omit the beeswax. In theory it helps to harden the soap but it also depresses lather and I find it difficult to use.

Try keeping your soaping temperatures at about 100-110 F (40-45 C) and see if that helps.

By the way, there is nothing wrong with peeking just to make sure your soap isn't overheating. If it is, then throw off the covers and put it in a cool place or in front of a fan.

ETA: that just reminded me to check my soap. One has a fragrance that tends to heat the soap quickly. I just put it in the refrigerator.

 

[shivani]

Thanx all for your suggestions,i'l keep that in mind from now on.. I mix lye n oils at around 90-100 degrees F..i read it somewhere not to mix at high temperatures..n I make small batches..just for experiment and personal use..i live in india..but its not too hot here,winters have started.. I use 3% beeswax in all the batches I make,as I have a lot of beeswax with me. but still I wonder what difference would it actualy make in soaps if we gel them, apart from curing time.

 

[shivani]

And is it good to keep in fridge? Will it not hinder the chemical process that requires heat?will it harden?

 

[Ruthie]

Keeping it in the fridge does not hinder the process. (Heat only speeds the process. It is not necessary.) I prefer non-gel on most of my soaps, and regularly put them in the fridge. Gel seems to yield brighter colors. I prefer softer colors so that is one reason I prefer non-gel. I also use a lot of goat's milk which stays a lighter color if it is not gelled. Yes, your soap will harden, though it may need a bit longer. The disadvantage to non-gel is that sometimes soda ash forms on your soap. You can help prevent it by spraying with rubbing alcohol after pouring in the mold. If it forms, you can just accept it, or you can steam, wash or trim it off.

 

[Lion Of Judah]

Can you post your recipe and mixing method? Sounds to me like the batter isn't getting totally mixed or is presenting a false trace and is separating in the mold when left to sit. Anybody else think?

i am of the same opinion as [boyago],if you are getting that much oil in your batch it sounds as if you batches has not reach proper emulsion / proper trace . false trace can happen. and as he said it is best to post your recipe and the temperature you soap at . also soaping with a 10 degree difference between oil and lye water is a good rule for newbies to follow , and as you get more experience you will learn that you can soap at greater temperature differences depending on your recipe.
by the way , what are you using to mix up your batch with , are using a wisk or a stick blender?

 

[shivani]

I use stick blender..i dont remember the recipie.. I noted it somewhere and cant find it now..i think it was improper calculations..i dint follow the recipies properly,as I dint have all the oils mentioned and dint knew about soap calculators that time..i tried a lot to look like a soap..cooked it many times,added many things..but it looked like dead..flat n liquid..no change..m using it as a handwash..but the last two I made were fine.no insulation..proper calculation and weight..