First Pine Tar - interesting

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tryanything

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First Pine Tar - Updated - Pics page 2!

So I made my first batch of pine tar soap for my husband's skin issues (he finally started using my soap!!!! YAY!!!!). I did a lot of research first and the biggest thing seemed to be how fast it moved so I was prepared. I mostly used the Soaping 101 recipe with some slight modifications:

26 oz total
Olive oil - pomace 40%
Coconut oil - 20%
Pine Tar - 20%
Castor oil - 10%
Shea butter - 10% (original recipe called for coco butter)
.7 oz eo: .1 oz lavender (all I had left, boo) and .6 oz pine needle (just to give the piney sent some umph!)

3 oz lye (5 % superfat)
9 oz water

The interesting part is that I followed the method in the soaping 101 video of adding the EOs to the oil, then the lye, bring to just emulsified, then added the pine tar. I expected it to move quickly so I had unplugged my stick blender and was prepared to hand stir. However it never really moved. After 5 minutes I ended up plugging my stick blender back in and giving it a few quick bursts. It did move quickly then but it was still very pourable. I didn't have to glop it in like she did in the video. It's heating up quickly now in my wood mold (must stop checking it!). Anyone else ever experienced slow moving pine tar soap?

Random side note, I absolutely love my new Cuisinart stick blender. Whoever came up with the detachable blade is a genius!!
 
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I need to get me some pine tar I think. I'm doing a trade with a few people on here and one is giving me a bar for hubs to try.. I'm intrigued to see if it will help his eczema.

Can't help with the trace thing.. sorry.
But I agree about the blender! I've never had one that wasn't detachable but can imagine it wouldn't be very fun. I always take mine apart whenever I'm not blending.. always afraid it will make my item fall over. kwim?
 
But I agree about the blender! I've never had one that wasn't detachable but can imagine it wouldn't be very fun. I always take mine apart whenever I'm not blending.. always afraid it will make my item fall over. kwim?

Exactly! And the little plastic bucket thing that came with it is perfect for storing the blade until I clean it. I practice the let it sit over night until it's soap, then just rinse it method. With my other blender I was always afraid it would fall over and spill the little bit of soap batter remaining on the blender. And when I rinsed it I had to be careful to not get the motor wet. This new one is sooooooooooo awesome! And it's blue! I spent the five extra bucks for the pretty blue one!
 
Hey.. you're making soap and working hard right? You deserve to have pretty colors to work around. Good for you for spending the extra on it. :)
 
When I made my pine tar, it traced fast but not as fast as I expected. I was able to somewhat pour it in the mold. It definitely wasn't gloppy. I think how much tar you use also really affects how thick it gets, I used 10%
I probably won't ever make it again but if I did, I would probably do 20%. I prefer the smell of neem and its supposed to do the same stuff pine does.
 
Can you use neem powder instead?

Sent from my HTC Desire S using Soap Making mobile app
 
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I've had that happen as well! I wonder if it's the lavender EO? When I make pine tar soap, I use mostly soft oils - the only hard oil I use is coconut. I made mine at 25% pine tar. Never done that before. It is still super soft and waiting to be cut! I add my pinetar to the oils, then I add the eo, then the lye water. I don't use my stick blender b/c I want to throw away almost everthing I use when making pine tar soap. So I stir with a large paint stirrer, which I can throw away.
 
The first time I made pine tar, it never fully traced. It looked exactly like thick, melted chocolate. Poured it in the mold and it set up beautifully. The second time I made it, I forgot and used my SB for about 7.2 seconds and ended up almost seizing the batter. Now I put the blender FAR AWAY from my workspace and just pour when I feel it's emulsified enough. I used lavender EO in mine, too.
 
I think the lesson to take away from this is that pine tar soap is unpredictable. I think part of the unpredictability is the PT itself is so variable. One soaper made her PT soap with the same brand name product that I used, but her soap is caramel colored while mine is a dark blackish brown.

Just because my first experience with pine tar went well, I'm not assuming my second batch will act the same. Prepare for the worst, but hope for the best is my motto with pine tar. :)
 
I made it once and I was able to get it into the mold but it ended up overheating and separating so I had to rebatch it.

For any of those who plan to use this for eczema or psoriasis sufferers, I have read that fragrance-free is best. I think it smells a bit like turpentine, but in a good way.
 
I've never done a pine tar batch, because I have no real idea what it is or where one would get such a thing. Does it have to be ordered from a soapmakers' supplier or is it normally available around town, so to speak, if one knew what to ask for?
 
You can buy pine tar online and from farm and ranch stores and equine stores. It's normally put on horses' hooves or is used as a coating for outdoor wood structures.

If you are in the US, you can find pine tar in TSC (Tractor Supply Co) stores in the equine section. Be sure to get the 100% Pine Tar product. There are pine tar hoof dressings that have other stuff mixed in, and you don't want those.

Bickmore is probably the most common brand. Feibings may make it too, not sure about that. Cost is roughly $12 US for a quart.

You can also buy a pine tar made by Auson in Sweden, about $60 for 3 liters. There are a few US distributors that carry it -- do a google search. The best price I found was on a website for a guy who sells renewable-resource paints (linseed paint, milk paint, etc.)
 
Yeah I used the Bickmore brand from the local TSC and I think I'm going to be one of those weird people who like the smell. I haven't cut it yet, it's still a bit soft. It's really dark, almost black color, though it was more a milk chocolate color when I first poured. I didn't see an in-between gel stage but I could feel the heat when I checked it 15 min later (I know, I'm bad) and an hour later it was solid black so I wouldn't be surprised it if gelled quickly. I'm hoping it didn't separate but I guess I'll have to wait until I cut it to see.

Based on reading other threads I suspected the lavendar might have contributed to the slower trace, but it was such a small amount I wasn't sure.
 
"...I think I'm going to be one of those weird people who like the smell..."

SNORT! You 'n my DH.

I bought a can of the spendy Auson pine tar just to see if the smell is more tolerable. I don't have a huge amount of discretionary income to spend on weird things like this, but I can tell DH likes pine tar soap enough that I am going to have to make more for him and learn to live with the odor. (Yes, I indulge him -- and he's awful good to me too!)

Takin' a deep drag off the opened can ... shows promise. More of a smoky pine bonfire smell than Bickmore's burnt rubber stench. Still not a walk 'n the rose garden, but better. I dearly want to make a new batch with the Auson and see what it does in soap. On my "to do" list for the next weekend with some free time.
 
Okay, I cut the soap last night and took some pics. They were still incredibly soft but after a day of sitting they are noticeable harder. Yay! I'll be honest, I haven't zap tested yet. They were too mushy and frankly I was afraid to try. I'll wait another day or so for them to firm up then give it a try. From what I've read I should have a glass of water on standby to rinse my mouth out with!

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Yep, looks like pine tar. Mine was fairly soft too, but give it time and it'll firm up.

And, yep, that glass of water is a good idea. :think:
 
Thanks for the tips on where to get the pine tar. I'm in Europe so I will check out the equine places
 
Ahh -- you might be more successful at finding the Swedish pine tar made by Auson. It is not common in the US, but is more widely available in Europe. There are two kinds, light for treating above-ground wood and animals and dark for below-ground wood treatment. I chose the light version -- that seemed to be more appropriate for human use.
 
:Kitten Love::Kitten Love:I used the Binkmore with good results,think each batch has its on little gremlins though.1st batch,1 minute to trace,2nd batch 30 sec. I have to stay focused and on guard.

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