Wrap it or Jell it??

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kmarvel

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I make CP soap and have always used the method of wrapping with towels to insulate the soap.

I was wanting to try and do the gell method where, I guess, you just put your mold in the fridge for X amount of time?? What is the correct procedure to gell your soap??

Kathie
 
This is a wonderful post explaining "gel" which I bookmarked from another thread a while ago:
:)

No, your not a dummy. If you are reading this, you are in fact much smarter than the average bear.

What is "gel"?;

When soap forms, the chemical reaction, called saponification, produces heat. All soaps produce this heat. If the heat is allowed to build up, the soap turns into a goo, or gel, for a few hours. It may happen within a half an hour after pouring into the mold, it may happen 24 hours after you pour. This period of time when your soap looks and feels like hot jello is known as the infamous gel stage. If you get a gel, do not panic. As a matter of fact, it is almost always a sign of a successful batch of soap.

Should I gel or not? and Whats the difference between gelled and non gelled soap?

If you choose to promote a gel stage when your soap is forming, you do so by insulating the soap with blankets, thick wooden molds, etc. Again, what one does when encouraging a gel stage, is trapping the natural heat produced when the soap forms. Moving blankets work great to insulate molds and trap heat to encourage a gel stage.

A soap that gels will be more translucent, and will also get harder faster, and require less cure time. Most soaper's report colors get deeper or more vivid in a soap that has gelled.

A soap that does not gel will usually be more opaque, and look more like store bought "soap" bars. Also, many people report that a non-gelled soap feels silkier on the skin.

So, Gel or no gel effects color intensity, translucence, cure time, and finally;

Gel phase and scent.

Heat is an enemy of essential oil. The hotter your soap gets, the more scent is "burnt" off, or lost. Now, that said, soap that has gelled can smell wonderful. This is where some experimentation comes in. Maybe your scent is unscathed by a gel phase, maybe your scent is almost completely lost due to a gel phase.

How do I prevent gel?

Its simple, you have to keep the temperature low while the soap cures. Yes, your soap will fully use up all the lye even if you leave your loaf in the freezer. It just takes more time for the soap to form and cure. Many people say they can not prevent gel, and this may be true. However, from an organic chemistry standpoint, any exothermic chemical reaction can be slowed, and even stopped, if temperatures are kept low enough.

What the heck is exothermic? A chemical reaction that gives off heat, like our beloved soap does. The opposite is endothermic, meaning heat has to be added. This is important to understand if you really want to wrap your arms around this mysterious gel phase.

Hot process soap adds heat, an oven or crock pot keeps the soap so warm that it finishes much faster than cold process. The added heat speeds up the reaction. The same soap will in fact form and cure with out heat, and even inside the freezer.

The more heat you keep, the more gel you get, the faster things get done. I prefer to gel to cut down on cure time, that's the only reason. I prefer the denser thicker look of ungelled soap, and do in fact try my best to prevent gel when using sensitive essential oils, especially lavender and citrus scents.

You can try everything under the sun to prevent gel, and it still may happen despite your best efforts. You may want your soap to gel, but the darn stuff refuses to do so. This is because of the almost limitless combinations of oils we soaper's use.
Also, different humidity levels and altitudes effect chemical reactions, and therefore our soap. Most all soaps gel here in Florida, even without insulation. My friend in Colorado almost never gets his soaps to fully gel. Yes, we have experimented with identical recipes, and found that identical recipes do in fact behave differently at different locations.

So, your still wondering, should I gel or not? It really is, as many gifted soapers on this forum have posted, simply a personal preference. If your soap gels, partially gels, or does not gel, the end product will still be soap, and will work just fine regardless.
This is where experimentation comes in. A good way to prevent the gel stage is to use very small molds, and plop them into the fridge, or freezer. Make a batch of soap, split it in half, and try to promote gel in one half, and prevent it in the other. You'll then have your aha moment, and realize, much of the mystery surrounding the infamous gel stage is really much ado about nothing.

Fell free to message me with any questions, or with any info I may have missed.

Your, Paul Robb
 
Aye, I think you have it mixed up - you insulate the soap to trap heat in and (try to) ensure a complete gel. You freeze the soap to (try to) prevent any gelling at all.

What is it that you are looking to do?


I just read the "dummy" thread on gelling and non-gelling. I have been "gelling" my soap by insulating with towels. :) (I did have it mixed up!!)

I thought I read somewhere that not gelling soap takes less time to cure. So, if I wanted to soap with a lavender EO or a citrus EO, I would probably want not to gel to keep the scent trapped in my soap. Is this a fair statement?


And thank you so much for everyone's help. :)


Kathie
 
Gelled soaps and ungelled still need roughly the same cure time, but gelled soaps will go through saponification faster and pass 'zap' testing sooner. It may also get harder faster due to the water loss from heating up. But I gel all my soaps and still do minimum 4 weeks cure.
 
I gel most of my soaps, but my Goat's Milk soaps go straight into the freezer for at least a day to prevent gel. Then they sit out on the soap room table for a day or two until they are firm enough to unmold (this depends on humidity and time of year more than anything-- sometimes it's only a few hours, other times it's a few days) and then I'll cut them and cure them. The extra time is worth it to me to have creamy-white milk soap rather than tan milk soap!

Whether to gel your EO's will depend on the oil and the flashpoint. Lavender is usually OK to gel. Citrus has a hard time sticking, so you will probably want to prevent gel in that, and maybe add a touch of bentonite or other clay to help anchor the scent-- that works well for me. I've also crock-potted soap, cooled it some, then added the EO and molded it. But there's a fine line between cool enough not to burn off the scent, and hot enough to still be easily poured/molded and make a nice smooth bar. You'll need to experiment with your recipes and oils to find out what works best for you!
 
Gelled soaps and ungelled still need roughly the same cure time, but gelled soaps will go through saponification faster and pass 'zap' testing sooner. It may also get harder faster due to the water loss from heating up. But I gel all my soaps and still do minimum 4 weeks cure.


Thank you. :)

I do a cure of at least 3 weeks.

Kathie
 
There really is no way to "speed up" cure time. And there really is a difference between fresh soap and a fully cured bar. For me its a 4 week minimum and sometimes much longer
 

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