Working on Stain Removal soap bar

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@AliOop "For colored clothes and for grease stains, I use a bit of PS-80 to pretreat."
Can the PS-80 be added to the stain stick batter itself, either with the CO before adding the lye water or after trace?
Am not a chemist nor a very experienced soap maker. However Polysorbate 80 is not dissolvable in oils as it is nonionic. It is recommended for use in water based items such as lotions and bath bombs. It may separate out of a soap recipe. You may want to consider making a pre-treatment solution with Polysorbate 80 however. @AliOop uses it to treat grease stains.
 
Am not a chemist nor a very experienced soap maker. However Polysorbate 80 is not dissolvable in oils as it is nonionic. It is recommended for use in water based items such as lotions and bath bombs. It may separate out of a soap recipe. You may want to consider making a pre-treatment solution with Polysorbate 80 however. @AliOop uses it to treat grease stains.
Thank you. Oops, I'd forgotten about it being water soluble when I posted.
So would it then be possible to dissolve it in part of the lye water and then add it into the oils?
 
What an interesting question! Here is what I know about PS80, from the Humblebee & Me website:

Polysorbate 80 is an O/W [oil-in-water] emulsifier and dispersant often used in conjunction with the appropriate SPAN. Good solubilizing properties, recommended in systems with unsaturated lipid components such as oleyl alcohol and vegetable triglycerides.

How that translates into suitability for lye-based soapmaking is above my pay grade, unfortunately. Hopefully a more knowledgeable member will chime in to answer that.
 
PS-80 usage is confusing to me. It is water soluble, yet Humblebee & Me says, "Include polysorbate 80 in your oil phase; it can be hot or cold processed."

Seems like it could be a useful ingredient in a stain stick but I'm not sure of the best way to incorporate it. In water (as part of the lye water), in the CO before adding the lye solution, or in the batter after trace?

Methinks I may have at least three experiments to try... :search:
 
I can't recommend this "stix" more! It becomes a soft lather that can be worked into any stained areas I have, once I wet the stained area. DD used some on a few "rusty" spots on her fav T, bye bye stain!
Which recipe did you settle on using? Would you mind sharing it?
I made one with just the CO and 0%SF, but I'd like to add some oomph to it. I've got limonene on order. Not sure yet about using borax and/or washing soda, or maybe citric acid.
 
Which recipe did you settle on using? Would you mind sharing it?
I made one with just the CO and 0%SF, but I'd like to add some oomph to it. I've got limonene on order. Not sure yet about using borax and/or washing soda, or maybe citric acid.
The 100% CO 0% SF is the one I used. We love it at our house!
 
As I understand it, stain sticks don't really need to cure, they just need time to lose water content. They do most of their shrinking in the first 2 weeks, but continue for some time after that.
Yes, I use mine right away. But since they are 100% CO, 0% SF, and not cured, they are very harsh on the skin. I recommend wearing gloves, or at least using a rag or something to hold them so they aren't in contact with your fingers.
 
Yes, I use mine right away. But since they are 100% CO, 0% SF, and not cured, they are very harsh on the skin. I recommend wearing gloves, or at least using a rag or something to hold them so they aren't in contact with your fingers.
I haven’t done it yet, but I was planning on filling in deodorant tubes with the stain remover soap, so that I wouldn’t have direct contact, and so it could travel well.
 
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