Soapcalc - low conditioning value

[orangetree71]

Sorry for posting so many questions tonight! I want to make the White Chocolate Mousse recipe in the Soapmaker's Companion, but I ran it through soapcalc, and the conditioning value is only 36, when it should be 44-69. I tweaked it many times, and couldn't get a decent conditioning value. Any suggestions, or should I scrap the recipe?
This is it:
Cocoa Butter 15.69%
Coconut Oil 31.37%
Jojoba 15.69%
Olive oil 21.57%
Palm oil 15.69%

 

[orangetree71]

Me again. The low conditioning value seems to be coming from the jojoba. When I remove it and adjust the other oils, conditioning goes up. I thought jojoba was supposed to be moisurizing and good for the skin. Should I ignore the conditioning value?

 

[Alexandra]

The low conditioning value comes from coconut oil and palm oil - together 48% is really too much.

I would put less coconut oil (not more than 15%) and increase olive oil instead.

 

[orangetree71]

I came up with what I think is a better recipe:
OO 35%
CO 25%
PO 15%
Caster oil 10%
Cocoa butter 10%
Jojoba 5%

Still, I don't understand why removing the jojoba makes the conditioning value go up significantly, when it is supposed to be moisturizing. The other thing I don't understand is why the Soapmaker's Companion would have a recipe that is so low on conditioning, and it is supposed to be one of her most requested bars.

 

[carebear]

The low conditioning value comes from coconut oil and palm oil - together 48% is really too much.

I would put less coconut oil (not more than 15%) and increase olive oil instead.

I disagree - well yes that may be where the number comes from but you can make a lovely soap with lots of coconut and/or PKO. one of my best loved recipes is 75% coconut oil. it's a matter of balancing components and superfat.

 

[Overthemoon]

I'm with carebear, other than my Castille, all my soaps have min 25-100% coconut oil. They also all have high superfats 10-20%. Coconut and palm do wonders for my cystic acne, not at all drying for me. Then again I do not have dry skin under any circumstances.

 

[carebear]

I do. I have old lady tissue skin with the occasional zit for emphasis... Sigh. But I can use the soaps.

 

[Overthemoon]

I like to say I could soap with my own oils but the idea is still gross.

 

[honor435]

jojoba doesnt seem to do alot in the soap ive made and its exp.

 

[mandolyn]

Jojoba in reality isn't an oil, but a wax & it's very close to the fatty acids in human skin which is why it's so moisturizing on it's own.

I don't find it does a lot for me in soap, so I use it in salves & body butters instead.

Soapcalc isn't the end-all & be-all of formulating. Use the numbers as a guideline, then do some testing. Testing your formula is a more accurate way of determining how conditioning your combination of oils is.

I like at least 40% olive oil in my formula & a SF of 6.5% or 7%. Any higher than that, & I feel like I'm not getting clean, but that's a personal preference. As you can see, we all have different preferences & a lot of that is based on the differences in our skin types. What I think is perfect for me may seem too drying to someone else. A soap with more than 25% coconut oil makes my face realllllly dry, whereas someone else may find that to be perfect for theirs.

 

[MorpheusPA]

I like at least 40% olive oil in my formula & a SF of 6.5% or 7%. Any higher than that, & I feel like I'm not getting clean, but that's a personal preference. As you can see, we all have different preferences & a lot of that is based on the differences in our skin types. What I think is perfect for me may seem too drying to someone else. A soap with more than 25% coconut oil makes my face realllllly dry, whereas someone else may find that to be perfect for theirs.

Totally agreed! I could probably get away with 100% coconut oil on my face, which is extremely greasy (don't ask about my hair, just don't). I tend to use MP soap there to get the grease off, and it's one of the few times I actually like industrial-strength surfactants.

If I tried that on my back, I'd shed skin like a growing snake. I need high olive oil on the rest of me, at least through the fall, winter, and spring. Plus moisturizer.

 

[Vinca Leaf]

I do. I have old lady tissue skin with the occasional zit for emphasis... Sigh. But I can use the soaps.

LOL!

 

[Bubbles Galore]

I would make the original recipe and give it a good lye discount. Then I'd make the second recipe and compare. It's fun. :wink:

 

[orangetree71]

Bubbles Galore: The conditioning value of 36 was with an 8% lye discount. I'd like to try it, since Susan Miller Cavitch says it is her most requested bar, but I'm afraid it will be too drying. You're saying make it anyway, just to compare? I guess I could make a 1 lb. batch. I still can't believe this recipe is featured in one of the most popular soap making books.

 

[mandolyn]

Bubbles Galore: The conditioning value of 36 was with an 8% lye discount. I'd like to try it, since Susan Miller Cavitch says it is her most requested bar, but I'm afraid it will be too drying. You're saying make it anyway, just to compare? I guess I could make a 1 lb. batch. I still can't believe this recipe is featured in one of the most popular soap making books.

That's why doing your own experimenting is suggested. We've learned a lot since some of the soapmaking books were published. Just because someone published a soapmaking book doesn't make them or their formulas the best out there. :wink: