Recipe help

[eleighc]

Hello, I wanting to make a very moisturizing mild facial soap bar. This is the recipe I came up with. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks for looking.

Hot Process with 7% supefat added at end of cook.

I want to use milk, and veggie/fruit puree for water content. I was thinking of adding small amount of kaolin clay also.

EO for scent.

OO - 50%
CO- 14%
Rice bran - 11%
Grape Seed - 2%
Shea - 6%
Safflower - 3%
Castor - 6%
Walnut oil - 5%
Stearic - 3%

 

[AlchemyandAshes]

That's a pretty ambitious recipe...what made you choose those oils in particular? Just curious.
Did you run your recipe through SoapCalc to get an idea of the quality values of your recipe? If you don't mind a soft bar, this will be a mildly cleansing high conditioning soap with minimal lather. Good qualities for a mild facial bar, but...
If I were you, I would nix the Grapeseed and Safflower, as they are notorious for going rancid quickly. I also wouldn't add Kaolin Clay, if you're going for moisture. Also, there really is no need for scent in a facial bar (usually is what irritates skin besides a high cleansing factor), unless you're hoping to receive some of the beneficial properties of the EOs. Which EOs did you have in mind? Milk is a good idea. What veggie/fruit puree were you planning on using?

 

[lsg]

Add a little Vit E to your recipe at the end of the cook and that should help prevent the soap going rancid. Since I have started adding Vit. E to my soaps, I have never had DOS or problems with rancidity. I also add Vit. E to all of my liquid oils as soon as I get them. Why add vegetable/fruit puree to your soap? May I suggest substituting aloe juice?

 

[eleighc]

That's a pretty ambitious recipe...what made you choose those oils in particular? Just curious.
Did you run your recipe through SoapCalc to get an idea of the quality values of your recipe? If you don't mind a soft bar, this will be a mildly cleansing high conditioning soap with minimal lather. Good qualities for a mild facial bar, but...
If I were you, I would nix the Grapeseed and Safflower, as they are notorious for going rancid quickly. I also wouldn't add Kaolin Clay, if you're going for moisture. Also, there really is no need for scent in a facial bar (usually is what irritates skin besides a high cleansing factor), unless you're hoping to receive some of the beneficial properties of the EOs. Which EOs did you have in mind? Milk is a good idea. What veggie/fruit puree were you planning on using?

Lol. I know it is a involved recipe but in short I wanted to see about packing in the ingredients to this one for fun and experimenting. I'll try to explain why I chose each one in short form.

OO - moisturizing, healing
CO - lather, acne, hardening bar
RBO- antioxidant, inflammation, soothing, conditioning
Grape seed - skin penetration, nourishing
Shea - moisturizing, conditioning, healing
Castor - lather, hardening bar
Walnut - moisturizing, conditioning, healing, eczema
Safflower - antioxidant, skin penetration, moisturizing, conditioning

I did run it through soapcalc and play around with it. I would like a slightly harder bar but figure I would try this and go from there. I'm not real concerned about the soap going rancid because I will be making a very small batch and there are 3 of us that will be using it 2 times a day. I am not a seller and I plan on adding vitamin E after cook with super fats. After posting the recipe I thought about changing the kaolin to oatmeal instead.

On the EO I thought about adding a small amount of Tea Tree oil. I would be adding EO for benefits not for scent.

And I haven't decided fully yet on which veggie/fruit puree yet. Heres the ones I am considering.

Mango - Blemishes/Scars, Pimples/Acne, Clogged Pores
Avocado - Soothing, Moisturizing, Eczma
Cucumber - Soothing, Moisturizing, Combination Skin.

The main purpose for this soap is that me and my boys get very dry, tight, inflammed skin during winter. And we have issues with acne.

I'm not so sure that I succeeded in a short answer. lol But, hopefully help with why I chose these. Feel free to let me know what you think and thank you for taking the time to read my post.

 

[eleighc]

Add a little Vit E to your recipe at the end of the cook and that should help prevent the soap going rancid. Since I have started adding Vit. E to my soaps, I have never had DOS or problems with rancidity. I also add Vit. E to all of my liquid oils as soon as I get them. Why add vegetable/fruit puree to your soap? May I suggest substituting aloe juice?

Thank you for your reply. I am going to add it with my superfats at the end of cook. I wanted to add the veggie/fruit puree for their benifits to the skin. Avocodo is so yummy and I thought it would be fun to play around with using puree. I have been thinking about getting aloe juice and would love to hear more about your thoughts on it. Would I just get the jugged aloe juice from the store or would I use a specific type? Again thanks.

 

[lsg]

Aloe juice from the store is fine. I would freeze it to the slushy stage if I were dissolving lye in it. I make an aloe/cream soap that is very popular with my friends. Aloe is both soothing and healing. Although soap is a wash off product, I think aloe has at least a chance to help soothe irritated and chapped skin. I have a friend who assists a veterinarian in a large animal practice. She swears by my aloe/cream soap.

 

[judymoody]

I use grapeseed oil in my soap (at about 20%) that is designed for acne prone skin as well as tea tree oil, lavender, and finely ground oats. So far it hasn't gotten DOS and I have some bars that are over 2 years old but I live in a dry climate. It's a tweaked version of the acne soap recipe on the teach soap site if you want to check it out. The oils mix is less complex than what you have here.

Some people also find shea irritating to the skin or have a sensitivity to it.

Personally, I'd simplify and try a recipe based in OO, CO, grapeseed, and castor. There is so much going on here, you won't be able to distinguish which oils are helpful. Also some of them are in relatively small %, perhaps not enough to be meaningful. For the face, I'd superfat at 8-10%. Keep the fragrance load lower than you would for a shower soap. Maybe 1-2% of oil weight.

 

[eleighc]

Aloe juice from the store is fine. I would freeze it to the slushy stage if I were dissolving lye in it. I make an aloe/cream soap that is very popular with my friends. Aloe is both soothing and healing. Although soap is a wash off product, I think aloe has at least a chance to help soothe irritated and chapped skin. I have a friend who assists a veterinarian in a large animal practice. She swears by my aloe/cream soap.

I think I will work on getting some. I used to use plants that we had for burns and such before I started soaping but we lost them a couple freezes back. I really enjoyed using aloe then and think I will get some and try it out. Thanks

 

[eleighc]

I use grapeseed oil in my soap (at about 20%) that is designed for acne prone skin as well as tea tree oil, lavender, and finely ground oats. So far it hasn't gotten DOS and I have some bars that are over 2 years old but I live in a dry climate. It's a tweaked version of the acne soap recipe on the teach soap site if you want to check it out. The oils mix is less complex than what you have here.

Some people also find shea irritating to the skin or have a sensitivity to it.

Personally, I'd simplify and try a recipe based in OO, CO, grapeseed, and castor. There is so much going on here, you won't be able to distinguish which oils are helpful. Also some of them are in relatively small %, perhaps not enough to be meaningful. For the face, I'd superfat at 8-10%. Keep the fragrance load lower than you would for a shower soap. Maybe 1-2% of oil weight.

I will check out that recipe for sure. I have checked to see if any of the oils bother me but I didn't think about checking on the boys so I will keep that in mind for sure and probably lower the list. I definitely want to keep the EO amounts low. I will keep researching and playing with the recipe and see what I come up with. I headed off,to play. Thanks for all your input.