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Thursday my dau came over and we made a new batch of soap! I noticed it came to trace very quickly, so the ones we poured into molds didn't turn out quite as well as I hoped. I'm looking for a recipe that doesn't solidify so quickly. I would really like to start being more artistic! Swirls. I love everybody's swirls! The recent zebra stripes were super cool.

This batch has some swirls, but they aren't on purpose. I think it could be glycerin rivers? Pls correct if I am wrong; input appreciated! These are fresh-cut, untrimmed. They set up nicely and cut well. Still ever-so-slightly soft in the middle.

Recipe:
Distilled water 22.03 oz
NaOH 11.01 oz

Coconut Oil 11.6 oz
Jojoba Oil 10 oz
Almond Oil 10 oz
Shea Butter 24 oz
Argan Oil 2.85 (using up the last of a bottle...)
Castor Oil 10 oz
Soybean (fully hydrogenated from TheSage.com) 12.4 oz
Apricot Kernel Oil (used up the last of a bottle) 7.15 oz

4 tsp sugar

Banana FO (Nature's Note Organics) 4 oz
Brambleberry Vanilla Sandalwood 1.4 oz

Ran through SMF calculator. It's really nice smelling! Fragrance held so far. Soap scraps from trimmings wash nicely; doesn't feel too drying or stripping. And here we are....! I think this is my sixth batch.
 

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If you want a more workable slow tracing batter cut the castor to a min of 5%. I used to go with 0-3% as I found during testing even a 2% difference in castor oil would make a difference in the trace. Also, you could consider cutting down your Jojoba which is really a wax, not an oil, and contributes very little to soap. But my main guess is your problem lies with the high Castor, so cut it down and up your liquid oil. You also might consider keeping your Shea/Soy Wax combination under 41% this is also contributing to your fast tracing.
 
If you want a more workable slow tracing batter cut the castor to a min of 5%. I used to go with 0-3% as I found during testing even a 2% difference in castor oil would make a difference in the trace. Also, you could consider cutting down your Jojoba which is really a wax, not an oil, and contributes very little to soap. But my main guess is your problem lies with the high Castor, so cut it down and up your liquid oil. You also might consider keeping your Shea/Soy Wax combination under 41% this is also contributing to your fast tracing.
Thank you, that's very helpful! Also, I am not understanding jojoba as wax. It's a liquid at room temp. Can you please help me understand? Thanks so much!
 
I am not understanding jojoba as wax. It's a liquid at room temp
Correct. It is a "liquid wax"- no melting required as with other waxes we use. It's also rather expensive to use in soap but has many beneficial qualities for skin and hair and is most often used in leave-on products for that reason. Lovely stuff! ;)

Have a look at this guide -- you may want to bookmark it for future reference.

Beginners Guide To Soapmaking - Common soapmaking Oils
 
Correct. It is a "liquid wax"- no melting required as with other waxes we use. It's also rather expensive to use in soap but has many beneficial qualities for skin and hair and is most often used in leave-on products for that reason. Lovely stuff! ;)

Have a look at this guide -- you may want to bookmark it for future reference.

Beginners Guide To Soapmaking - Common soapmaking Oils
Thank you! I’m going to delve into this! TBH, I’ve been wondering and waiting to ask the jojoba question for a while now.
 
BTW, this turned out to be my favorite batch so far. Really nice, hard bar. Lots of creamy lather/bubbles. Lasts forever as long as you don’t leave it sitting in water, but even if you do it still doesn’t melt super quickly. Smells nice. It does come to trace fairly quickly, so when I remake it I think I’ll eschew the SB and just stir with spoon/spatula.
 
BTW, this turned out to be my favorite batch so far. Really nice, hard bar. Lots of creamy lather/bubbles. Lasts forever as long as you don’t leave it sitting in water, but even if you do it still doesn’t melt super quickly. Smells nice
:thumbs: YAY! Keep up the good work!
It does come to trace fairly quickly, so when I remake it I think I’ll eschew the SB and just stir with spoon/spatula.
You can do that but It's probably just the fragrances you used. Next time, add them to the warmed oils BEFORE adding the lye solution, made overnight, straight from the fridge. Should help slow it down a bit without compromising a well-mixed batch. ;)
 
:thumbs: YAY! Keep up the good work!

You can do that but It's probably just the fragrances you used. Next time, add them to the warmed oils BEFORE adding the lye solution, made overnight, straight from the fridge. Should help slow it down a bit without compromising a well-mixed batch. ;)
Wait, wait - "adding the lye solution, made overnight, straight from the fridge" - why do all my cold process "recipes" advise "mix oils and lye H2O when 110 - 130 degrees F and ideally within 10 degrees of each other"? AND, why do some recipes tell you to add fragrances to batches after the lye and oil mix, and after you split them for different colors? AND, why do I see all these cool soap makers on Youtube doing stuff "against the 'rules'" (you can guess I was one of those scaredy cat kids afraid to break the rules in school. Until.... but that is another story...) like the things I just asked about?? Huh? Huh??
 
Well, @Betty Boop things change. My best advice is to do what you do and what works for you. It doesn't hurt to try something new and different, especially if you run into a problem that needs a better solution than the "way we always did it".

Soap making is always in a state of flux. The "rules" are only guidelines to help you to get where you want to go. What works for me, may not work for you, yes? and vice versa. That happens all the time. Carry on, dear heart... and take good notes, ask questions, be confident in your ability to choose which way is best for you. 🥰
 
Well, @Betty Boop things change. My best advice is to do what you do and what works for you. It doesn't hurt to try something new and different, especially if you run into a problem that needs a better solution than the "way we always did it".

Soap making is always in a state of flux. The "rules" are only guidelines to help you to get where you want to go. What works for me, may not work for you, yes? and vice versa. That happens all the time. Carry on, dear heart... and take good notes, ask questions, be confident in your ability to choose which way is best for you. 🥰
Good to know. Since I do not make a LOT of soap at once (3 - 5 lb molds for cold process, as well as 2 - 3 lbs of melt and pour in "fancy" molds, mainly for gifts), I am reluctant to risk expensive supplies on untested experiments like the ones mentioned. IF a number of seasoned soapers (makers, that is, not bathers) recommend, use or endorse a particular method, I am willing to give it a go. It is always helpful to learn new technique, especially when it improves results, increases efficiency, makes better use of resources or a combination of those things. If you know of any specific sources that explain or validate the acceptability of those issues mentioned originally (as opposed to my blindly and stubbornly sticking my fingers in my ears and NOT trying them out - I really like 'splaining, Lucy), it would be appreciated. It would save wear and tear on my thermometer, too, if I do not have to worry about oil and lye H2O temp compatibility!! Thank you.:nodding:
 
Oopsie. I was writing a reply and hit the wrong key and my response was deleted. I'll try again when I have more time... :oops:
 
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