Multiple layers

[VanessaP]

My best friend has asked me if I could do a layered soap to recreate a flag. It would be two sets of 2 different colored stripes, a white stripe then another 2 sets of the 2 different colored stripes. Plus an embedded shape in one corner of the top set of colored stripes. I'm confident that I could easily do the embed, I just need the silicone embed mold for the shape she wants. I would be using my 3lb wood log mold from SMR.

She and her friends are excited because they think it will sell like hotcakes in their community when I do start selling next year. But first I need to nail the scent. Even if I'm not making any money off these sample batches, its good experience/practice with layering, right? Plus, they love homemade soap and I think that's great so I'm happy to spread around the suds. It also gets it out of my house (other than my sample bar to watch for DOS, etc) My friend is willing to help me buy supplies for making this specific soap so I'm not footing the entire bill for testing these batches.

The FO will be Leather from BC but I don't know if it accelerates trace - on the soap scent review board, one person has it but didn't soap it because she didn't like the OOB smell. I made some HP last night but I don't think I had enough of the FO or I just couldn't get the temp of the soap low enough to add it without the soap hardening on me and the scent evaping. Other suppliers that have Leather listed, some accelerated and some didn't. Would it be best to mix the FO into the oils before adding the lye solution so I can pour ASAP if trace starts to speed up on me?

I have plenty of coconut oil and lard available, I also have a few pounds of PKO flakes. I have some avocado oil (from WSP), castor oil, olive oil, soybean oil (from WSP). I do have PO on my reorder list so I will probably have it back in the house by the time I get around to attempting the layering. I can also pick up the various shortenings at Walmart if any of those would be appropriate. Sodium lactate is ordered. What would be a good starting recipe that I could play with that would be a pretty stable light trace that I could pour fluidly without it being high in OO?

Would my best bet be to make a batch for each layer (I have the TKB scale that measures .01g up to 300g), pour it at lightish trace so it will settle out as an smooth, even layer, then let it set up a bit while I mix up the next layer? Would the layers eventually separate during use if they don't gel? I don't see such thin layers poured at intervals reaching gel though could I FORCE gel in the oven when done with the final top layer? Or will the ungelled layers stick together well enough?

Push comes to shove, I CAN break down and buy opaque M&P and just color, scent, pour and let set up enough so a new layer won't break through, and rinse & repeat, but I'd like to see if I can create this via CP too so I can tailor the soap more. Would the M&P layers separate from each other? I could use a heat gun to soften/melt just the barest top of the layer to achieve cohesion for the next layer, right?

I know, I'm probably making this way more complicated than it should be I'm tired and with this disc in my back hurting more than my c-section did, I'm having a hard time concentrating and I'm probably confusing everyone else too

 

[lsg]

Here is a tutorial from Soap Queen on using melt & pour to create a flag soap. Maybe this will give you a little help on the method.
http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body- ... p-intro-2/

http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body- ... t-steps-2/

 

[Guest]

When I do my layer soaps basically I make a full batch with no color and then after it's all mixed and at VERY light trace I separate the batch into containers with the separate colors. I mix the colors up gently and then begin pouring each layer. I let the bottom layer sit for a little bit til it's somewhat thick and then pour the next layer over my spatula to prevent it from breaking through. The only thing is that if you go too fast you will break through the bottom layer and if you go to slow the soap thickens too much. You really need to know how your fragrance oil will act in the soap so you know how much time you have to work with.

This is a video on gradient soap
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUTcf8bW9Iw"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUTcf8bW9Iw[/ame]

you would just do separate colors and separate containers but it works the same for pouring different colored layers.

Hope that helps.

 

[green soap]

Sound like fun!

I recently did a layered soap, but only three layers. Well, the inner layer had inserts. I made separate batches for the different layers, and waited until the soap was firm-ish before pouring the next layer. I did this in three separate molds (each holds up to 3 lbs), so the different soap batter batches were near a lb each (or more).

I just wanted to reassure you that the adhesion between layers is very good, no problem there. I have done other inserts, with cured soap inside new soap, never had a problems with the inserts not adhering.

This was CP, but the inner layer was HP with CP inserts. It was a 'rebatch' or 'save' but it turned out rather pretty.

 

[VanessaP]

Thanks At least now I don't think I need to really worry about the layers separating on me I'll check out the M&P videos just in case I end up using it too. I will most likely be using M&P for the embed shape itself so I can make those up the night before and won't have to worry about whether or not it zaps when I want to embed them the next day.

I do have a batch of the leather FO planned for this weekend and its just going to be a normal batch. I might get some brown colorant in there just to try to make it look like a brown leather color, but no layering for a long time. I'm making it this weekend (supposed to arrive Friday) so I can have it cut up and take it with me when I go on vacation to my friend's house next week. She knows she's not allowed to use it or give it away for a minimum of 4 to 6 weeks so we're good there. I just don't want to have to pay shipping in a month when I can just already leave it with her to cure.

I think I will probably stock up on some plastic mixing cups/bowls with pour spout so I can just make each layer as I go. I always have a ton of vinegar in the house so I can easily wash up each as I go along, or at least set them to soak.

Anyways, I've got plenty of time to plan and attempt this. Thanks for the tips

 

[green soap]

you do not say what colors will be in the flag soap (I have to admit I am intrigued by a flag smelling like leather...) I just wanted to have you consider something. In case your FO discolors, you will not know this if you color it brown. If this is just a test batch, leave some of the soap batter uncolored, so you know if it discolors or not. You can do a cute spoon swirl or something. Just my $0.02

 

[VanessaP]

The stripe colors are black and royal blue, and the center stripe is white, so I know I will be using TD for the white, and I have black oxide and ultramarine blue that I think will work well assuming it doesn't discolor much. I am planning on making enough this weekend to take out just a little bit for a few individual bars in my silicone mold as well, thanks for touching base on that. I get ahead of myself when I'm typing so I forget to put some stuff down

 

[judymoody]

There is a great tutorial on you tube by Emily of Shieh design studio. Search for ombre soap or ombre technique and you will find it. I made this based on her technique:

My layers aren't perfectly straight but you get the idea.

 

[Lilahblossom]

Wow Judy your soap is Divine! What fragrance did you use in your Red, White and Blue soap?

 

[VanessaP]

There is a great tutorial on you tube by Emily of Shieh design studio. Search for ombre soap or ombre technique and you will find it. I made this based on her technique:

My layers aren't perfectly straight but you get the idea.

Thanks Judy, I'll look her up and watch. I'd end up with a total of 9 layers due to the number of stripes but I'll take what I can get

 

[judymoody]

shouldn't be too different going from 7 to 9. Do you have one of those molds that is taller than wide?

 

[VanessaP]

Not yet. I have a 3lb 3.5" w x 2.75" h mold from SMR that I was thinking of using (or I have the CC silicone logs) because I need the embed in the top left of the horizontally oriented flag.

I HAVE been looking at the taller narrower molds just for making some nice vertical bars with sculpted tops anyway. Just have to wait a bit to save up some funds for one.