Mixing Lye

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SavedbyGrace

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Hi,

Never made any soap yet, just gathering info. right now.

Question #1:

I will be making a soap using fresh, raw goat milk. I've read that you need to add the lye to the milk very slow as to not burn it. Can I just mix the lye with a minimal amount of water, then in turn mix that with the goat milk? Or will that mess things up?

Question #2:

All the basic recipe's I've found call for palm oil, which I cannot find. What can I use instead? They sell lard at Walmart, can I use that in the place of the palm?

Thanks in advance!
 
If you want you can use 100% goatmilk. Freeze the goatsmilk to sushy, and then very slowly add the lye to that.

Or you could mix the lye with water....the least amount of water you can use is equal to the weight of the lye, and then you would let that cool to about 90-100 F, stick blend the amount of gm you want to use in the the oils/butters and then mix the lye in.

I prefer to use the frozen slushy gm and add the lye directly to that.

Yes you can use lard in place of palm...it makes a great sub for palm. Just be sure to run it through the lye calc to adjust the amont of lye as the sap values are different.
 
Also you could just use say Olive oil some coconut and a little castor for bubbles. Any oil you have pretty much will work. I just made some 100% tallow soap. My other soap was Olive castor little tallow cocoa butter. I don't use Goat milk so can't help there.
 
Palm oil and mixing Lye

I got some products...palm oil included from here. http://www.soapgoods.com/
I thought they were reasonable compared to other places, and their shipping was the best from other places I used. If anyone knows of cheaper, please let me know. I sometimes buy from glory bee foods, but their shipping got a little pricey for me. I buy my lard at Save-a-lot, and when I can't get there, I use cheap vegetable shortening. I used to render my own fat from tallow, but that's getting hard to find, as well as buying Lye..that's getting harder to find in stores. I find it at Lowe's, and now at Tractor Supply, they beat Lowe's prices for the same amount (ounces) of Lye. If you need them name of it, let me know (it's upstairs and my computer is downstairs so I don't have the name handy).

Anytime you add lye to your fats, you need to add it nice and slow. I find using a stick blender works terrific. I get my soap to trace a lot quicker and I know the lye and oils are well mixed. I make sure (with 2 candy thermometers, one for the fats and one for the lye) both at 100 degrees (give or take a tiny tiny bit in temp. differences) before I blend them together. I also mix up my fats, I experiment with the batches, writing down how much I used of what fat and see what I like better..If it dissolves too fast when used, or last's longer than the other recipes, or I get more bubbles, etc., I write that down as well. I feel as long as the total weight your fats weigh out the way they should, it will harden and make soap. Enjoy and have fun!
 
Thanks for all the input!

I thought lye was going to be the difficult thing to find, but they had it at TruValue Hardware Store - name brand "Rooto" 100% lye.

I think for my first ever try I'm going to use Coconut Oil, Olive Oil, Lard (or Palm if I happen to come across it), Castor, Goat Milk, Honey and Oatmeal. I have extremely sensitive skin that burns and itches all the time (rosacea) and I've read that this is a good recipe for that. Any opinions on that?

Still trying to figure out percentages, weights and amounts! Little confused about all that!

Since I would only be making soap for myself and my family to use, what would be a good amount to make? I don't want to make too much then have it spoil. Thoughts?

Thank you all!
 
how much

I am still a novice about making soap. Unless you melt your own fats (bacon, tallow, etc) your soap should not spoil. Spoilage can happen when there is little bits of meat left in your fat (from frying it or melting it down to use for soap) that get into your soap if you didn't filter it out first. I have had soap sitting around for 3-4 years, and it's still good. As far as using Oatmeal, just don't use "quick-oats" or instant oatmeal. It can clump up on you, use the slow cooking or "old fashioned" oatmeal, and grind it up in a food processor first and add it last to your soap before you are ready to pour it into your mold..

I sell some of my soap to my customers (I'm a waitress) but mainly use the soap for my family. I don't use goat milk or oatmeal, just lard and or vegetable shortening, olive oil, palm oil, coconut oil, sunflower seed oil. I switch sunflower seed oil with grape seed oil, etc. I use Olive oil cause it cause's the soap to suds up. You don't need suds to get clean, it's more psychological than anything. I also let my soap dry really well - a dry bar of soap lasts longer (even with store bought, unwrap it and let it dry more before using). I store mine unwrapped. I leave mine on an open-grate shelf. I make about 36 4 1/2 oz. bars at one time. That's what size box (it was an old dresser sock drawer) I use as my mold. I think it measures 14"x12". My soap is usually ready in about 2-3 weeks after making it, and I always test it by washing my hands first with it. If your hands rinse off squeaky clean, it's ready. If you hands rinse off and they are still slippery (like when you have bleach on your hands) it is not ready - give it another week or so and try washing your hands with it again.

My first book I bought on soap making is called "The Complete Soapmaker". http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Soapmake ... 0806948698 I really liked it. It is very helpful. It's on amazon for $4.46 new (a lot less than what I paid for it years ago). I have another book I also use but I can't find it nor can I remember it's name. I use it more than the above mentioned, only cause it make a smaller amount of soap (not by much though) in the recipe's she gives. These books will give you weights and amounts of fat and lye/water to use, so the hard work is done for you. Once you see how easy it is, you can do some experimenting on your own with different fats (as long as they add up to the same total amount in the recipe). Like if one recipe calls for 8 oz of palm oil, I may use 10 and then cut back those 2 extra oz. on another oil..AND, I never alter from the lye amounts (or the water for the lye) in these recipes - I haven't figured that part out yet, and am very happy with the results in the books I read.

I bought a digital scale at Wal-mart, too. Fat and Lye (even the water for the lye) should be "weighed" and not measured. 6 oz. of fat in a measuring glass can be different than 6 oz. on a scale. I didn't spend a lot on the scale, and it does the job. No use going in debt if you don't have to.

I hope I have given you some help. Enjoy making it, I look forward to when my supply gets low and I have to make it again. It's like a fun science experiment that always works out. I want to hear how your soap turned out, how well you enjoyed doing it, etc. Good Luck!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
22. 00 for palm seems high? soaperschoice has it for 11.90. oils by nature for 15.60 for 8lbs, wsp 15.50(7lbs)
 
SavedbyGrace, good luck on your first soap-making adventures!!

If you change one type of oil for another, or change the amounts of the oils from the original recipe, you need to run the changed recipe through a soap calculator to determine the correct amount of lye. Every fat has a different saponification value.

Experimenting is so much fun, but you don't want to waste expensive oils making a mistake on the amount of lye needed.

I also have rosacea, and I've found that goatsmilk unscented soap below 20% coconut and at least 53% olive, palm oil, plus castor and colloidal oatmeal at trace, has been pretty gentle on my face. I still have to remember not to scrub too hard; sometimes I get carried away with the washcloth!
 
You definitely don't have to use palm to make a nice bar of soap. I've been completely skipping it lately, some recipes have had lard instead and others don't have palm or lard, all have turned out to be excellent bars.

As cool as it is to try out new recipes, it really is safest to always run your recipe through a lye calculator just to verify the amounts, even recipes you've found on reputable sites or in books. Typos happen, and it's a good habit to get into just to be safe.
 
Good point on books, Tess. I ran a couple of recipes from a book through a calc and was stunned at the error. Caution :!:
 
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