Hi! Another newbie from Texas :)

[Phisch]

Two days ago, I came across a soap making video on YouTube and decided that this is something worth getting into. I already DIY a lot of things (sourdough, laundry soap, dishwasher soap, deodorant, lotion) so experimenting isn't new territory though working with lye definitely is. Yesterday, I got a used stick blender and thrifted an old stainless steel pot (could use another, I'm sure). Ordering lye today and already have lots of coconut oil for the first batch I'm going to make. If it works, it's going to replace the bar of castile soap that goes in my laundry soap recipe. Here goes nothing!

 

[Relle]

Welcome Phisch .

 

[AliOop]

Two days ago, I came across a soap making video on YouTube and decided that this is something worth getting into. I already DIY a lot of things (sourdough, laundry soap, dishwasher soap, deodorant, lotion) so experimenting isn't new territory though working with lye definitely is. Yesterday, I got a used stick blender and thrifted an old stainless steel pot (could use another, I'm sure). Ordering lye today and already have lots of coconut oil for the first batch I'm going to make. If it works, it's going to replace the bar of castile soap that goes in my laundry soap recipe. Here goes nothing!

Making a 100% CO soap is a great place to start - that's where I started almost seven years ago! You probably already learned this, but just in case you didn't... laundry soap is normally made with 0%-1% super fat. Body soap typically has 5-8% super fat. Super fat = extra oils, which are great for moisturizing skin, not so great for cleaning laundry! If you are working with a recipe from the Internet. please run it through SoapCalc and set the super fat to no more than 1% for so you don't have extra oils going into your loads of laundry. Have fun!

 

[Phisch]

Making a 100% CO soap is a great place to start - that's where I started almost seven years ago! You probably already learned this, but just in case you didn't... laundry soap is normally made with 0%-1% super fat. Body soap typically has 5-8% super fat. Super fat = extra oils, which are great for moisturizing skin, not so great for cleaning laundry! If you are working with a recipe from the Internet. please run it through SoapCalc and set the super fat to no more than 1% for so you don't have extra oils going into your loads of laundry. Have fun!

Thank you! Yes, I did figure out that for my purposes right now, I want no superfat. What I'm having trouble with is figuring out the formula. I am looking at buying a loaf mold that holds 42 ounces. I don't think it means I want 42 ounces of oils, right? How do I work backwards to figure out the right amount of coconut oil, water and lye? And if the soaps cure for 4 weeks (seems like that's the average), how much would the final weight be? I'm hoping to get soaps that weigh as close to 5 oz as possible.

 

[AliOop]

Thank you! Yes, I did figure out that for my purposes right now, I want no superfat. What I'm having trouble with is figuring out the formula. I am looking at buying a loaf mold that holds 42 ounces. I don't think it means I want 42 ounces of oils, right? How do I work backwards to figure out the right amount of coconut oil, water and lye? And if the soaps cure for 4 weeks (seems like that's the average), how much would the final weight be? I'm hoping to get soaps that weigh as close to 5 oz as possible.

Using SoapCalc, if you put in 26 oz of CO, with 0%SF and 0% fragrance, and default to the 38% water, that will get you to 41.46 total batch weight. If you do hot process, you can unmold and cut within 2-3 hours max.

Normally you do want bar soap to cure to make it milder, but I don't bother with that for laundry soap. I just shred it while it is still somewhat soft, and then mix it with the other ingredients: borax, washing powder, sometimes a bit of citric acid.

ETA: why do you want 5 oz bars? Most people grate their laundry soap since the powder form dissolves more easily in the wash. For mixing/measuring purposes in your recipe, you can just weigh out 5 oz of shreds, rather than 5 oz bars.

 

[Phisch]

Good point! No need for bars since it gets grated anyhow. I just need to cut it to fit the food processor and it’ll be good to go.

I haven’t got a slow cooker so I will be doing cold process. Unless I can do it on the stove? I imagine it’s possible.

 

[AliOop]

Good point! No need for bars since it gets grated anyhow. I just need to cut it to fit the food processor and it’ll be good to go.

I haven’t got a slow cooker so I will be doing cold process. Unless I can do it on the stove? I imagine it’s possible.

You can totally cook your soap in a pot on the stove, on low; try to stay at 180-200F. In fact, I prefer the stovetop method to the crockpot bc the crock is big and heavy and hurts my wrists.

 

[Phisch]

You can totally cook your soap in a pot on the stove, on low; try to stay at 180-200F. In fact, I prefer the stovetop method to the crockpot bc the crock is big and heavy and hurts my wrists.

Awesome! I’ll look up hot process more thoroughly and do it that way. Thank you!

You can totally cook your soap in a pot on the stove, on low; try to stay at 180-200F. In fact, I prefer the stovetop method to the crockpot bc the crock is big and heavy and hurts my wrists.

I looked up hot process and most recipes say a cure is still needed. Would the amount of water need to change for hot process in the stove? I don’t have a lid for my pot so would that be a factor or can I just use my cooking pot with lid and still be able to use it for cooking food?

 

[lsg]

Welcome to the forum.

 

[AliOop]

Awesome! I’ll look up hot process more thoroughly and do it that way. Thank you!


I looked up hot process and most recipes say a cure is still needed. Would the amount of water need to change for hot process in the stove? I don’t have a lid for my pot so would that be a factor or can I just use my cooking pot with lid and still be able to use it for cooking food?

Yes, HP soap still has to cure. Some people use more water for HP since some will evaporate off during the cook. You can try setting the water to 35% and see what you think.

I don't cover my HP on the stove for most of the process, because I do it at higher temp with constant stick-blending until it expands, at which time I whisk it down and put some plastic wrap or a clear glass lid over the top. You have to watch carefully to ensure that you can whisk down any further expansions (aka volcanoes). You can read more about HTHP, but for a first time soap-maker, low temp HP or CP is probably safest.

Your pot will still be safe for cooking food as long as it is stainless steel and you wash it well. NO aluminum or non-stick coatings can be used for making soap.

If HP feels too intimidating for you, then use your stove or microwave to melt the oils. Let the oils and lye water cool down to at least 120F (lower if you want), then stick blend to trace and pour into the molds. If it is a 100% CO recipe, CP, and in a loaf mold, you will want to unmold and cut as soon as it is somewhat firm, usually no more than 8 hours. If it is HP 100% CO in a loaf mold, you probably want to cut it at about 2-4 hours max. CO hardens up fast when it is the only oil used!!

 

[IrishLass]

Welcome, Phisch!


IrishLass

 

[Phisch]

Yes, HP soap still has to cure. Some people use more water for HP since some will evaporate off during the cook. You can try setting the water to 35% and see what you think.

I don't cover my HP on the stove for most of the process, because I do it at higher temp with constant stick-blending until it expands, at which time I whisk it down and put some plastic wrap or a clear glass lid over the top. You have to watch carefully to ensure that you can whisk down any further expansions (aka volcanoes). You can read more about HTHP, but for a first time soap-maker, low temp HP or CP is probably safest.

Your pot will still be safe for cooking food as long as it is stainless steel and you wash it well. NO aluminum or non-stick coatings can be used for making soap.

If HP feels too intimidating for you, then use your stove or microwave to melt the oils. Let the oils and lye water cool down to at least 120F (lower if you want), then stick blend to trace and pour into the molds. If it is a 100% CO recipe, CP, and in a loaf mold, you will want to unmold and cut as soon as it is somewhat firm, usually no more than 8 hours. If it is HP 100% CO in a loaf mold, you probably want to cut it at about 2-4 hours max. CO hardens up fast when it is the only oil used!!

Thank you! This is hugely helpful!!!

 

[Phisch]

Welcome Phisch .

Thanks

 

[Phisch]

Welcome to the forum.

Thanks for the welcome

 

[Phisch]

Welcome, Phisch!


IrishLass

Thank you!