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CP as a base - newbie queastion

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volya

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Hello,
I would like to make my soap with EO only, but as I know they evaporate very quickly during 6 weeks of curing. I thought maybe I can make a plain base with no color and scents and then, after it cures I can rebatch with EO and colors added making different types of soap that will have a nice strong fresh smell. Please, advise - if this is something that a lot of people do in order to make the soap smelling nice? If there is drawbacks/minuses?
I highly appreciate advice of experienced soapmakers.
Thank you!
 

soapbuddy

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Welcome!
Not all EO's fade during the cure. I prefer CP soap with the EO added right up front. Rebatch takes more time and since you are adding the EO's to hot soap, there is a chance that the EO's will evaporate.
 

Fragola

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If you wait 6 weeks, you need to add water to rebatch, after which you need to wait some time for the soap to cure.

If smell intensity is your main concern, simply add more EOs. But there's another matter: certain EOs are attacked by lye.

Using CP as a base would be probably possible, except that the rebatched soap doesn't look as smooth as plain CP.

You could tweak your recipe so that it needs less time to cure.

There is a method of rebatching inside a plastic bag (which I haven't tried). That probably results in less evaporation.
 

judymoody

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Both FOs and EOs vary in intensity and longevity. Some stick, some don't, some require a higher %, some less. You can't really generalize.

Fragrance is altered or weakened by two main factors - heat and lye.

So, you could try rebatching on the premise that the lye and fats have already interacted and there would be less lye left to alter the fragrance. However, as soap buddy indicated, your mixture would still be very hot when adding the EO and some might burn off.

I also find rebatching a pain in the butt and not as aesthetically attractive as CP.

Another option, if you are concerned about scent fading, would be to try to suppress gel by refrigerating or freezing your soap after pouring it. Less heat = less morphing or fading. I don't gel my soaps that have more delicate EOs like citrus and the scent lasts longer and is stronger.
 

Fragola

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I am wondering if preventing gel is enough, or low temperatures also help. Somebody said they cure their soap in the fridge.
 

Bubbles Galore

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If you pick your EOs carefully, you will find some blends that will stick in CP soap whether it's gelled or not. :wink:
 

honor435

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lemongrass is a a good eo that stays, use 1oz per lb of oils though. Its really the only eo I use, i use fos and really like them.
 

volya

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Thank you for all your replies and advises!
So, does this mean that during rebatching EOs evaporate/fade more quickly than during curing time?
Another question to those who use EO - are there any tips on how to cure soap so the oils will not fade fast? Maybe wrap them in paper wrapping, so they can breath but less EO evaporate and eventually the soap will smell stronger?
How can I know what EO stay better than others? Are there any lists to look?
Thank you so much!
 

Bubbles Galore

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I don't do anything special during the cure. The soap eventually ends up in cardboard boxes. At one stage, I nearly gave up on using EOs but I persisted. Experiment with blends. :wink:
 

judymoody

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Scents that stick pretty well (in my limited experience):

lemongrass
litsea cubeba
anise
clove
cinnamon
patchouli
vetiver
cedar
spearmint
tea tree
lavender
rosemary
eucalyptus
folded citruses - 5x - 10x lemon or sweet orange (but use at 1 oz PPO) - using them in combination with litsea cubeba can make them stick better
petitgrain
rose geranium

I also use FOs but not many and generally in blends.

After four weeks, I put my soaps in cardboard boxes. Most of my EO soaps stay strong for at least six months or longer.
 

soapbuddy

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volya said:
Thank you for all your replies and advises!
So, does this mean that during rebatching EOs evaporate/fade more quickly than during curing time?
Another question to those who use EO - are there any tips on how to cure soap so the oils will not fade fast? Maybe wrap them in paper wrapping, so they can breath but less EO evaporate and eventually the soap will smell stronger?
How can I know what EO stay better than others? Are there any lists to look?
Thank you so much!
Depending on the EO's flash point, they can evaporate if you add them to soap that's too hot. After the soap cools off, EO's won't evaporate, only water will. Some EO's will fade out no matter what you do. Citrus oils are notorious for that.
 

Fragola

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Code:
So, does this mean that during rebatching EOs evaporate/fade more quickly than during curing time?
Although I don't have enough experience to say for sure, I believe this can't be said as a general rule.

A method I use sometimes (especially for lye reactive EOs): bring the soap to trace, and leave it a covered in a stainless pot. After few days, I gently heat the pot, and once it has melted, blend in the EOs and pour into molds.

Maybe wrap them in paper wrapping, so they can breath but less EO evaporate and eventually the soap will smell stronger?
I definitely feel that packaging helps. After 3-4 weeks, I put them into closed boxes (not completely airtight).

Somebody mentioned packaging in shrink wrap (only after the soap is completely cured).
 

volya

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judymoody, thank you for the list!
I appreciate your advices, guys!

When I said wrap in paper I meant not to keep the soap in boxes, but finishing paper wrapping (aesthetic). Can it be done before curing, like maybe 3 weeks after pouring?

I have a question about curing. I know it is recommended to cure soap in well ventilated area. But it will be all dusted after 1 months, aren't? I know there are some tricks to prevent it - what do you do to keep it clean and at the same time breathable?

I just want to find all optimal ways to preserve the scent. I made only one soap in my life - rosemary-mint (K. Miller recipe for Castile soap) and the scent was, well actually NO scent at all. So, I figure out it's just evaporated :) and I need something to hold it in the soap :)

Thank you!
 

Stinkydancer

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Why not try Hot Process?

If I'm soaping EO's- I add a little Kaolin Clay and anchor EO's that need to be anchored.

Just cool your soap down before you add them. I have had not really any trouble with EO's disappearing since I have been Hot Processing them.
 

volya

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Stinkydancer said:
Why not try Hot Process?

If I'm soaping EO's- I add a little Kaolin Clay and anchor EO's that need to be anchored.

Just cool your soap down before you add them. I have had not really any trouble with EO's disappearing since I have been Hot Processing them.
thank you! But the hop process need a curing time as well, doesn't? At least I've read it is recommended. How long do you cure it?
 

Stinkydancer

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I cure mine anywhere from 2 weeks and on. It's hard enough in a week and is pretty mild. But after a month- it really blooms and gets better from there, just like CP.

I use it right out of the pot when it's done. To sell it- it sits for 2 weeks at least. If it's Castile- even HP- that sits for about 2 months at least. Though it hardens up pretty quick for me.
 

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