DirtyKnuckles
Active Member
I found my last batch of deer tallow/lye soap to be far too grainy and brittle for my preferences. The soap works and it works GREAT. But it lacks ease of use when bars shatter when dropped.
I took the last 262 grams of shards and ran them through the finest cheese grater I had, creating material about the consistency of laundry soap granules. I then ran up a quick recipe of olive oil/lye soap through the Brambleberry soap calculator and when the olive oil soap got to trace with the stick blender (and rather quickly, I might add), I folded in the granulated deer tallow soap.
This was all dumped into the Hobby Lobby white nylon?Plastic? soap mold and popped into the oven to rest.
For the record, here is the olive oil recipe and measurements:
400 grams olive oil
51.5 grams Rooto Lye
115 grams distilled water
So now the deer tallow lye soap will set in a matrix of a sort of "castille" soap, for what it is worth. As I understand it, olive oil soaps are a slow curing soap, so I better sit back and relax now.
Your thoughts and comments welcome.
I took the last 262 grams of shards and ran them through the finest cheese grater I had, creating material about the consistency of laundry soap granules. I then ran up a quick recipe of olive oil/lye soap through the Brambleberry soap calculator and when the olive oil soap got to trace with the stick blender (and rather quickly, I might add), I folded in the granulated deer tallow soap.
This was all dumped into the Hobby Lobby white nylon?Plastic? soap mold and popped into the oven to rest.
For the record, here is the olive oil recipe and measurements:
400 grams olive oil
51.5 grams Rooto Lye
115 grams distilled water
So now the deer tallow lye soap will set in a matrix of a sort of "castille" soap, for what it is worth. As I understand it, olive oil soaps are a slow curing soap, so I better sit back and relax now.
Your thoughts and comments welcome.
