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Mild separations, like the loaf feeling oily usually resolve themselves after they sit for a week or so. If its pools, rebatch might be more appropriate. Rebatch can save anything but with milk soaps they might darken.

I don't prep my beer at all. I use a larger pitcher and make sure the surface area of the beer is much greater than it is deep so it cant climb out of the pitcher then add the lye in small portions. The deeper the liquid is in the container, the higher its going to be able to climb from its...

The channel on youtube soaping101 has lots of videos about how to make swirls and other effects. Coloring GM is a little bit to do with the color wheel. There will be a bit of neurtal tan color added to whatever its colored with... probably why most people choose earth tones.

I've tried it but prefer to brush with virgin coconut oil, sometimes neem.. if I'm out of that I'll use soap. You might also be interested in the ayurvedic practice of oil pulling. http://www.oilpulling.com/

When soap seizes the best thing to do is hot process it. I always go for the double boiler or rest my soaping bowl over boiling water, it works with plastic too.

Soap doesn't take it off. It comes off with a clarifying shampoo that has no buildup ingredients of its own. Sometiems SLS/SLeS is needed. the process can take several washes. Before I got it all out soap made my hair feel slimy stiff or sticky afterwards like it was sprayed with hairspray...

For hard oils like lard and tallows, soaping too cold can cause a "false trace." Whats happening is the fats have cooled to a temp at which they want to be solid again. Lard can be solid at up to 105F. 110 degrees is a standard CP temperature. Anything lower is better suited for recipes...

One thing that might be of interest is silicone in shampoos and hair products. I could't get shampoo bars to work untill I got all the silicone build up off my hair. It coats the hair and doesn't wash off without detergent and causes breakage as it builds up. It also blocks moisture from...

Rebatch is always an option. It is a very forgiving process. The only problem I couldn't resolve with rebatch was an gross overuse of honey. If you made this on monday, and today its still scoop-able then something is up. Did you make it full water? Rebatch can fix that too, just cook it...

Putting it in the fridge for a couple minutes won't cool it very much... or at all because the soap is making its own heat. It takes the refrigerator 45 minutes to cool a room temperature beer down... so its not going to cool the soap in just a few minutes. Pointing a fan at the loaf, and...

ITs like gelly? It may have gelled. Gelled soap has a darker translucent look to it. Carrots can make soap heat up and do that... pumpkin too. It doesn't need a rebatch unless it separated.

Use vinegar in your rinse cycle. It removes soap scum and residue and also acts as a fabric softener.

I have let a 100% evaporated GM sit untill it reached heavy trace from sponifying the fat in the milk. No problems soaping with it. The lye solution will become weaker as it is exposed to air. If the solution is prepared ahead of time it needs to be in a sealed container just like the dry...

Well with water, I stir it untill it turns clear. In GM its a little harder to tell but its done dissolving when the mixture stops steaming and giving off fumes. I use a rubber spatula so I can drag it long the bottom and sides of the container to feel for graininess or drag when preparing a...

Gel phase is when the soap heats up enough to melt. If soap was hot enough to do that, that quickly, then it should separate before gel. Are there additives in this soap that contain sugar? Are you using a severe water discount? Water discounting will accelerate trace, as well as some EOs and...

Yes, this. So rebatching would be to blend it better because heat can cause separations. Sometimes it resolves itself in the mold if you just let the soap sit for awhile.

The no-doubling-up rule that applies to baking, doesn't apply to soap.

rebatch is a lot of work. If its still in a loaf or the mold, you could oven process it. That would cook some fragrance off. find the flashpoint of the fragrance and and set the oven to that temp, if its a reasonable temp for oven process. I'd try the easiest option before I did a rebatch...

Wasn't blended well enough. If the soap is lye heavy, add oil during rebatch. If its got too much oil you add lye. If the oil just separated because it wasn't stirred enough, you don't add anything other than water. If soap is really fresh you may not need to add water. All you are going to...

You could increase superfat to make soap less drying. Your recipe looks really good.