Zany's no slime castile

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I made a wee test batch of this soap a few weeks ago and loved it. I made a larger batch yesterday but both times my brine water with added sugar turns into a gloopy mess once the lye is added. I strained it twice before adding to the oils and all the gloop strained through but then on both occasions I have had to fish out a couple of flat white solid lumps from the batter before it has reached emulsion stage. The soap passes the zap test but what are the lumps? Is it because I have used course sea salt and a few grains re-solidify or is it something to do with the sugar? I soap around 120c (used to soaping with wax).
 
I made a wee test batch of this soap a few weeks ago and loved it. I made a larger batch yesterday but both times my brine water with added sugar turns into a gloopy mess once the lye is added. I strained it twice before adding to the oils and all the gloop strained through but then on both occasions I have had to fish out a couple of flat white solid lumps from the batter before it has reached emulsion stage. The soap passes the zap test but what are the lumps? Is it because I have used course sea salt and a few grains re-solidify or is it something to do with the sugar? I soap around 120c (used to soaping with wax).

Darn soap gremlins!

FWIW, maybe this could be a partial explanation for some of what you observed - there’s a limit to how much salt, bicarbonate, lye, sugar, etc. can be dissolved into a given amount of water. When the max is reached, the solution is fully “saturated”. Between the salt, bicarbonate and lye, your lye water could have been close to “saturation” and then when you added the sugar, you may have exceeded the capacity of the water to dissolve any additional solids. In general, the higher the lye concentration of your lye water, the lower the capacity to dissolve additional solids. The salt and bicarbonate add to the challenge of dissolving addition solids, relative to making the lye water with non-salty water. Then (speculation!), if the sugar was forced out of solution first (or kept out of solution) and then it melted as the temp of the lye water increased, I can imagine that it would make gloop in the lye water.

I don’t have any ideas for the lumps in the batter :( Are they soft, like partially solidified fats? Or do they seem more like crystalline solids?

As for the initial size of the salt crystals, it should not matter at all once the salt is dissolved. On the other hand, it may have affected the weight of the salt you ended up adding to make the faux sea water. The coarse salt will not fill the measuring spoon as tightly as the fine salt. If measuring spoons with coarse and fine salt are both leveled, the one with the fine salt will weigh more because the salt is more tightly packed in the spoon. Unfortunately, I don’t think this helps to explain what happened in your situation because faux sea water with a lower concentration of salt would have more dissolving power relative to fully saturated sea water.
 
Darn soap gremlins!

FWIW, maybe this could be a partial explanation for some of what you observed - there’s a limit to how much salt, bicarbonate, lye, sugar, etc. can be dissolved into a given amount of water. When the max is reached, the solution is fully “saturated”. Between the salt, bicarbonate and lye, your lye water could have been close to “saturation” and then when you added the sugar, you may have exceeded the capacity of the water to dissolve any additional solids. In general, the higher the lye concentration of your lye water, the lower the capacity to dissolve additional solids. The salt and bicarbonate add to the challenge of dissolving addition solids, relative to making the lye water with non-salty water. Then (speculation!), if the sugar was forced out of solution first (or kept out of solution) and then it melted as the temp of the lye water increased, I can imagine that it would make gloop in the lye water.

I don’t have any ideas for the lumps in the batter :( Are they soft, like partially solidified fats? Or do they seem more like crystalline solids?

As for the initial size of the salt crystals, it should not matter at all once the salt is dissolved. On the other hand, it may have affected the weight of the salt you ended up adding to make the faux sea water. The coarse salt will not fill the measuring spoon as tightly as the fine salt. If measuring spoons with coarse and fine salt are both leveled, the one with the fine salt will weigh more because the salt is more tightly packed in the spoon. Unfortunately, I don’t think this helps to explain what happened in your situation because faux sea water with a lower concentration of salt would have more dissolving power relative to fully saturated sea water.


@Mobjack Bay thank you so much for your fabulous explanation, it all makes perfect sense now!! I did some further reading and found out about the split method. I think I will try again but split the water amount in two so I can see that everything is dissolving...fingers crossed!!
 
I did some further reading and found out about the split method. I think I will try again but split the water amount in two so I can see that everything is dissolving...fingers crossed!!
Hiya Fiona, It's weird that your "wee test batch" worked fine but the next two batches didn't. I'd highly recommend posting your next attempt in the Recipe Feedback Forum to get input before making it.
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/forums/recipe-feedback.34/

I'd also recommend reading through Post #1 again... the higher temp (120°F) might be causing the problem. :smallshrug:
2) MAKE LYE SOLUTION - Mix and allow to cool to 35°C - 40°C (100°F - 110°F).
1.7:1 Water to Lye Ratio (Note decimal and colon)
0% Super Fat/Lye Discount
 
Hiya Fiona, It's weird that your "wee test batch" worked fine but the next two batches didn't. I'd highly recommend posting your next attempt in the Recipe Feedback Forum to get input before making it.
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/forums/recipe-feedback.34/

I'd also recommend reading through Post #1 again... the higher temp (120°F) might be causing the problem. :smallshrug:

Well...my wee test batch followed your instructions exactly but as soon as I went off-piste things started to go wrong, so serves me right:( Thank you for such a lovely recipe though, my brother is convinced that it helps his eczema xx
 
Hi linne. FYI: No need to wait any longer. This is not like your normal castile. If you follow the exact recipe, with no variation, you can almost use it right away. I started washing my face with it at 2 weeks with my last batch because I'd been completely out for while! LOL See Post #1:
I finally tried it! It is wonderful soap. Creamy, large bubbles, that last and last. Very mild and I love the scent I used. Frankincense & Myrrh. I will have to check my notes, but I believe my soap is between 6 and 8 weeks old. It still doesn’t feel as hard to me as my other soaps feel, but it was really lovely. I had only made a small batch, 1 pound. Now I am going to make a large batch. Can’t wait!
 
I love this recipe too! I made a modified Zany's no-slime Castile soap last month – and I love the lather! So creamy and rich! No slime! In addition to adjusting the oils a bit (and superfat at 5%), I used coconut cream for a third of the liquid. Here's my recipe:

olive oil 81%
coconut oil 15%
castor oil 4%

I dissolved the salt and baking soda in the water before adding the lye. I added my coconut cream to my oils and combined before adding the lye mixture. The first time I made this the coconut cream accelerated trace a bit, but working fast is well worth the creamy soap I got.

Now I just need to get myself to lower the superfat! I can probably go a little lower on the castor, since the coconut cream adds some sugar (and castor is expensive where I live). And since this has only been curing for a month, I'm curious to see how the soap is further on out.
 
I love this recipe too! I made a modified Zany's no-slime Castile soap last month – and I love the lather! So creamy and rich! No slime! In addition to adjusting the oils a bit (and superfat at 5%), I used coconut cream for a third of the liquid. Here's my recipe:

olive oil 81%
coconut oil 15%
castor oil 4%

I dissolved the salt and baking soda in the water before adding the lye. I added my coconut cream to my oils and combined before adding the lye mixture. The first time I made this the coconut cream accelerated trace a bit, but working fast is well worth the creamy soap I got.

Now I just need to get myself to lower the superfat! I can probably go a little lower on the castor, since the coconut cream adds some sugar (and castor is expensive where I live). And since this has only been curing for a month, I'm curious to see how the soap is further on out.
Your soap sounds fantastic. Did you color it or scent it at all? And did you use your water at 1.7:1? I was told I could use this soap right away, but waited about 8 weeks and I’m glad I did. It was worth the wait.
 
Thanks! I colored it with green clay and scented it with a blend of lime and litsea EOs. It's lovely . . and I'm hoping it will be lovelier at 8 weeks!
 

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If I add the coconut oil and castor oil to this recipe should I add an SF%? Also, I live on the ocean, can I use sea-salt water right from the ocean, and if so, how do I prep. the saltwater?
 
If I add the coconut oil and castor oil to this recipe should I add an SF%? Also, I live on the ocean, can I use sea-salt water right from the ocean, and if so, how do I prep. the saltwater?
Hi Cindy! The SF stays the same, 0% SF, when adding 10% coconut and 5% castor. And, yes, you can use sea water from the ocean, but I haven't done that. Hopefully, someone will come along who's done it. Wish I could be more help but I just don't know. :smallshrug:
 
Cee you are amazing. Ahhh! The upcoming baby of the family will be very delighted. Errr, I mean my sister. Sooo lovin' this. Will buy more POO and make some more for the baby... :tub:
 

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Haha you made me giggle. I'm delighted to hear you're delighted! And, yes, I think you should make more for the baby... ;)
 
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