Non-Fading Natural Colorants

Soapmaking Forum

Help Support Soapmaking Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I spoke with Dharma Trading's customer service and got some information that I felt was worth passing along. The indigo crystals are nature identical, but laboratory synthesized which eliminates them as an option for me in light of my parameters. More importantly, none of their colorants are food or cosmetic-grade as they are not processed in a clean facility. This is not an issue for my personal soap, but I feel a little uncomfortable using those ingredients in gift soap. The search continues...

This raises the question, can it be assumed that all food-grade items are cosmetic-grade...or are the legal intricacies trickier than that? (I am now spinning out into labeling regulation research.)

When I buy indigo from dharma, its the powdered indigo. This stuff is messy in powder form, I like that its natural and a little goes a long way, usually I use 1 tbl sp for 53 oz of oil. I didnt know they had the crystals; interesting, I will have to order them too.
 
Here are a couple samples of my color tests. The skulls were made late August, the square and butterfly are from June.

Left to right:
Annatto, infused in oil and ground seeds added; plain white control; alkanet powder infused and added at trace (this started out brown for me and didn't seem to fade much, if any); alfalfa, infused and some dried added; organic indigo, infused (this is not the blue powder - it's organic unrefined ground indigofera tinctoria plant leaves)

I haven't played with alkanet since, but I'm really happy with the results from the rest. I also like turmeric, paprika and wheatgrass infused in oils, but I can't find my tests. I think someone must have used them.

how do you know how much to use when you infuse the oils?
 
View attachment 19394
View attachment 19396View attachment 19395
I'm traveling, and happen to have with me in my hotel room a 15 month old bar made with beta carotene as the base color. I The photo of the uncut / unused bar from the same batch was uploaded to FB on 11/12/14 (and downloaded to my smartphone tonite). I'm very happy with the color retention of the bc. And it still smells great too (orange-patch)! The other colors are brick oxide, orange mica and AC.
Where do you get the beta carotene?
 
how do you know how much to use when you infuse the oils?

I use 1/2 - 1 tsp powder per oz of oils, depending on how much infused oil I'm using in the recipe and how dark I want the color. A little annatto goes a long way. 3 oz oil infused with 3 tsp annatto will give you a very vibrant orange in a one pound batch.

For the others, I like to mix all of my liquid oils for the batch the night before and infuse them, or use at least 50% infused oil in the recipe to get a really good color. To rapid infuse, I put the oil and powder in a bottle or jar and put that in a crockpot of water on low for 3-4 hours (basically double-boiling with a crockpot), stirring every 20-30 min. Then turn off, lightly cover and let sit overnight. For slow infusions, I use 2 tbsp powder in roughly 8 oz bottles of oil and shake them once a day.

You can also try adding the powder to your lye water. I've only done that with indigo and got a really nice green (I was going for blue...). Haven't tried the others yet. Maybe this weekend!
 
Where do you get the beta carotene?

It is readily available in any vitamin aisle (it's a Vit. A supplement). Poke the gel capsules with a toothpick and squeeze out the liquid. It only takes 2 or 3 capsules ppo for a nice rich yellow-orange. You can also get bc already mixed into coconut oil (marketed for popcorn) pretty cheaply if you watch for it.
 
The regulations for a food grade item are higher than for a cosmetic grade version as bacterial levels must be lower and other contaminants have to also be present at lower levels, if you are allowed to ingest something then there is no problem with applying it to the external surface of your skin.
 
The regulations for a food grade item are higher than for a cosmetic grade version as bacterial levels must be lower and other contaminants have to also be present at lower levels, if you are allowed to ingest something then there is no problem with applying it to the external surface of your skin.

That's what I figured. I said to one of my clients that I spread coconut oil on my toast, he asked where I get my coconut oil, when I said it was the same oil that I use for soap he was in shock. It was the prefect pitch for a sale.:)
 
I use 1/2 - 1 tsp powder per oz of oils, depending on how much infused oil I'm using in the recipe and how dark I want the color. A little annatto goes a long way. 3 oz oil infused with 3 tsp annatto will give you a very vibrant orange in a one pound batch.

For the others, I like to mix all of my liquid oils for the batch the night before and infuse them, or use at least 50% infused oil in the recipe to get a really good color. To rapid infuse, I put the oil and powder in a bottle or jar and put that in a crockpot of water on low for 3-4 hours (basically double-boiling with a crockpot), stirring every 20-30 min. Then turn off, lightly cover and let sit overnight. For slow infusions, I use 2 tbsp powder in roughly 8 oz bottles of oil and shake them once a day.

You can also try adding the powder to your lye water. I've only done that with indigo and got a really nice green (I was going for blue...). Haven't tried the others yet. Maybe this weekend!

Well if I want green I can do that with indigo, I have lots of powder indigo. I am called an indigo child. :)
 
I only use natural colorants and here's what I've found from trying different things over the years. I mostly infuse things because I don't like scratchiness.

Plants-
Annatto: A strong infusion in oil gives a nice orange/yellow color that lasts for me.
Madder Root: Strong oil infusion gives a good blush color but I mostly use it as a blender color.
Alkanet: Strong oil infusion gives a color that turns to a gray/purple by itself, but if used as a blender you can get good colors.
Black Walnut Hull: Make a strong tea out of it and use that as your lye water. Turns a light/medium tan.
Calendula: A strong tea for lye water gives a bright yellow color that fades to a pale yellow but sticks. Also adding the powdered flower petals gives some yellow color.
Nettle leaf powder: Strong tea for lye water. I combine this with french green clay and get a good green color.
Indigo root powder: At trace gives you a blue/green color. In lye water a sort of pale blue jeans color.

Clays/Other-
French Red Clay: nice brick red color, no scratch.
Brazilian Yellow Clay: bright yellow color, some scratchiness.
French Green Clay: a dull/olive green color, no scratch.
Brazilian Red Clay: used lightly gives a nice pink color. Slight grittiness.
Bentonite clay: gives a pale grayish color. No scratch.
Cambrian Blue clay: gives a light blue color. Slight scratch. I got DOS and haven't used since but idk if that was why.
Australian Red clay: a dark fuchsia red color but use sparingly because it stains. Some scratchiness.
Activated charcoal: nice black. Also use as a blender to darken other colors.
Freeze dried indigo crystals: added to lye water sparingly gives anywhere from light blue to dark navy blue.

citrus3_zpsfyjbbxqn.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
Australian red clay and Brazilian yellow clay

hs4_zpsm2cstylg.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
Indigo crystals with activated charcoal to darken each stripe

pear%20copy_zpsqrtn70gq.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
Nettle leaf infusion and french green clay
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top