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KattChaos

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I've been looking at recipes that have been posted on here and I was wondering what "Super Fat" is?

I'm afraid it's Avacodo Oil. I'm rather allergic to Avacodo's. If I'm wrong or right what are all the Super Fats available to use?

Question number 2... About 3 months ago I bought 3 round bars of Goat Milk Soap. I don't know if it was CP or HP. But each bar only lasted me maybe 3 wks and it was super soft the whole time. Was this caused by the Goat Milk or was it caused by something else, like not being cured long enough, etc, etc?

Is it possible to use Goat Milk in a CP Soap and if so could someone explain the process to me?

Thanks,
Katt <3
 
Super fat doesn't have anything to do with a particular oil. If you're allergic to avocados, definitely don't use the oil to avoid a potential problem.

Super fat, or lye discount, just allows a small percentage of the oils in the recipe to remain oils. By adding less lye, not all will chemically turn into soap. When you see someone mention 5% SF, that means 5% less lye is used in the recipe.

I don't use goat's milk so can't comment on that but I do use coconut milk. I haven't had it make my bars softer than batches without it. Most likely it's the recipe formulation or not a long enough cure. Hopefully one of the goat's milk soapers will come by and give more insight on it.
 
Besides the term superfat, you'll also hear of its close cousin, 'lye discount'. I mention it because they are often used interchangeably (because the resulting outcome is the same), but they are each approached differently:

From our "Acronym' thread:

Superfatting: The practice of adding extra oil/fat to ones soap batter either during trace in CP, or after the cook in HP than is needed to react 1:1 with the lye. This is done to provide a safety cushion of fat/oil in order to prevent lye-heaviness in the finished soap. Basically the same as 'lye-discounting', but different in approach (see 'Lye Discount' for details).


Lye discounting: The practice of using less lye than is needed in which to saponify all the oils/fats in one's formula 1:1. This is done to provide a safety cushion of fat/oil in order to prevent lye-heaviness in the finished soap. Lye Discounting is basically the same concept as 'superfatting', but technically different in how it is approached. With 'lye discounting' one decreases their lye amount by a certain percentage of their own choice in their 'up-front' calculations, and with super-fatting, one adds a certain percentage of oil/fat of their own choice directly to the pot either at trace in CP, or after the cook in HP.

You can use any oil of your choosing for a superfat. It's completely up to you. I personally don't superfat my bar soaps in the technical sense as defined above, but rather do an up-front lye-discount. It's easier that way and I've found the results to be the same in my finished soap. On soap calculators such as SopapCalc you'll see a box for Superfat %. They have a default of 5% in the box to insure against lye-heaviness, but you can change it to a different % depending on your preferences. Sometimes I use 5%, sometimes 8%, sometimes 13%, sometimes 20%, depending on my recipe. Even though the SoapCalc box says "Superfat %", it's technically a lye discount, because everything is calculated up front and you'll be combining all the oils together in your soap pot before adding the lye solution.


Regarding question #2- it sounds more like a problem with the actual oil/fat formulation, rather than with the goatmilk itself. I make goatmilk CP and also coconut milk CP as part of my regular repertoire, and both are as hard as my formulas without them included. What kind of ingredients are on the ingredient list of the soap in question?

In regards to making goat milk CP, I find it very easy to do via the 'split method':

I mix my NaoH with an equal amount of water in weight, then for the needed remainder of my total liquid amount, I use fresh goat milk (which I add to my oils before adding in my lye solution). That will give me about a 30% milk soap. If I want to do a 100% full-milk soap with the split method, I proceed the same way, but I fortify my fresh goat milk portion with enough powdered goat milk to bring it up to an equivalent concentration of a full-milk soap, and add it to the oils before adding in the lye solution.


IrishLass :)
 
I agree with all the posts above. I'll just add the thought, did you use a draining soap dish? If it sat on a shower shelf in a little puddle of water, that would do it.
 
I agree with all the posts above. I'll just add the thought, did you use a draining soap dish? If it sat on a shower shelf in a little puddle of water, that would do it.
I have a soap holler that has a lid but also has drainage holes in the bottom. I went out and bought it especially for my handmade soaps that I use.

Besides the term superfat, you'll also hear of its close cousin, 'lye discount'. I mention it because they are often used interchangeably (because the resulting outcome is the same), but they are each approached differently:

From our "Acronym' thread:

Superfatting: The practice of adding extra oil/fat to ones soap batter either during trace in CP, or after the cook in HP than is needed to react 1:1 with the lye. This is done to provide a safety cushion of fat/oil in order to prevent lye-heaviness in the finished soap. Basically the same as 'lye-discounting', but different in approach (see 'Lye Discount' for details).


Lye discounting: The practice of using less lye than is needed in which to saponify all the oils/fats in one's formula 1:1. This is done to provide a safety cushion of fat/oil in order to prevent lye-heaviness in the finished soap. Lye Discounting is basically the same concept as 'superfatting', but technically different in how it is approached. With 'lye discounting' one decreases their lye amount by a certain percentage of their own choice in their 'up-front' calculations, and with super-fatting, one adds a certain percentage of oil/fat of their own choice directly to the pot either at trace in CP, or after the cook in HP.

You can use any oil of your choosing for a superfat. It's completely up to you. I personally don't superfat my bar soaps in the technical sense as defined above, but rather do an up-front lye-discount. It's easier that way and I've found the results to be the same in my finished soap. On soap calculators such as SopapCalc you'll see a box for Superfat %. They have a default of 5% in the box to insure against lye-heaviness, but you can change it to a different % depending on your preferences. Sometimes I use 5%, sometimes 8%, sometimes 13%, sometimes 20%, depending on my recipe. Even though the SoapCalc box says "Superfat %", it's technically a lye discount, because everything is calculated up front and you'll be combining all the oils together in your soap pot before adding the lye solution.


Regarding question #2- it sounds more like a problem with the actual oil/fat formulation, rather than with the goatmilk itself. I make goatmilk CP and also coconut milk CP as part of my regular repertoire, and both are as hard as my formulas without them included. What kind of ingredients are on the ingredient list of the soap in question?

In regards to making goat milk CP, I find it very easy to do via the 'split method':

I mix my NaoH with an equal amount of water in weight, then for the needed remainder of my total liquid amount, I use fresh goat milk (which I add to my oils before adding in my lye solution). That will give me about a 30% milk soap. If I want to do a 100% full-milk soap with the split method, I proceed the same way, but I fortify my fresh goat milk portion with enough powdered goat milk to bring it up to an equivalent concentration of a full-milk soap, and add it to the oils before adding in the lye solution.


IrishLass :)
Phhh, I'm gonna have to study ALOT more. Almost all of that went completely over my head. But thank you for doing your best to explain it all.

I really wanna make good soap but farther into my experience now that I've realized I'm way out of my depth. Lol
 
Phhh, I'm gonna have to study ALOT more. Almost all of that went completely over my head. But thank you for doing your best to explain it all.

I really wanna make good soap but farther into my experience now that I've realized I'm way out of my depth. Lol
Simple explanation for "super fat" is it's just the extra oil that the lye didn't use up in your soap. When you formulate your recipe, you decide how much extra you want, usually from 0% to 5%.

Edit to Add: part of making good soap is making bad soap along the way. Sometimes, you just have to try and see what you end up with. "Good soap" for you might be very different from "good soap" for me.
 
Phhh, I'm gonna have to study ALOT more. Almost all of that went completely over my head. But thank you for doing your best to explain it all.

I really wanna make good soap but farther into my experience now that I've realized I'm way out of my depth. Lol

It can look pretty intimidating until you start getting a handle on the terminology. I don't know if you've ever been a gamer, but it's kind of like the learning curve with any sort of new game, learning all the new words and where your controls are and all and how everything works.

Don't give up. Even if you don't quite yet get all the technical explanations, make some soap! Pick a recipe from here (lots of great suggestions), or devise one yourself. Run it through a soap calculator just to be sure, then make the soap! Sometimes all the explanations suddenly start making a lot more sense when you can SEE the processes they're describing.

And don't sweat it being a great soap right out of the gate. It'll probably turn out okay, but you'll get better with practice.
 
Many soapmakers like to have some extra oils in their soap that are leftover and not bound to lye. Any extra oil left in the soap and not attacked by the lye is called a ‘superfat.’ The terms ‘superfat’ and ‘lye discount’ can be used interchangeably.
 
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