HP Shampoo Bar Help, PLease! (Long, you've been warned)

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Nikkor

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I'm going to try my hand at a shampoo bar this weekend. I'm going to have the house to myself as my wife is going to be out of town and I plan on pulling out all of the stops and going all in on this shampoo bar. I have gathered all the necessary supplies (I hope!) and purchased a crockpot on sale at my local big box store. I will be hot processing this and it's my 1st time doing a HP soap. As usual I have some questions.

Would using powdered goat milk be a good or bad idea? If a good idea when would I add it? My thought is to dissolve the goat milk powder with a little water held out of the lye solution and add it after the cook. Yes/No? Does GMP offer any benefit in a shampoo bar? I have made one CP GMP soap before and really liked how it turned out. I used 2.5 TBLS of GMP for 2.5 pounds of oils in that. Would this be a good amount in a shampoo bar or should I use less?

I am thinking of using Sodium Lactate in the hope of having a "looser" batter to put in my silicon log mold and achieve a smoother less rustic looking soap. Again, is this an okay additive to use in a shampoo bar or will it negatively affect the final outcome? If it's a "yes" on the SL what is the recommended amount per pound of oil and when to add it? As an FYI I have the liquid SL from Crafters Choice if that makes any difference.

I would also like to add a little honey to this recipe. I tried honey once before in a CP soap, soaped too hot and with the honey it overheated and separated. My thinking is that if I'm doing this HP I should be able to avoid the overheating issue. Again however, is honey a good addition to a shampoo bar and if so, how much per pound of oils and add it when?

Should I use a superfat value in soapcalc? I'm thinking a small one to err on the side of caution since I will be using so many different oils and as always I'm very careful when weighing out my ingredients but I think it would make me feel better. My reason for a small superfat value "built in" to the recipe aside from the cautious aspect is that I'm thinking to add a small percentage of superfat oil at the end of the cook. If my reasoning is correct, what would a good percentage be, both for the built in and also for the after the cook superfat? Or conversely, if I'm adding a superfat oil at the end do I forgo the built in SF? I don't want a lot of excess oils left in the bar as both my wife and I have normal hair that is not to dry and not to oily but I would like some conditioning in the bar. I also would like to know which of the oils in my recipe below would be the suggested oil to use as the SF.

I put the SF at 0% for this recipe thinking I would add 3% percent of a suggested oil at the end of the cook. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this!

I'm also using full water since I want as fluid a batter I can get in the end.

I will be adding a EO blend of .5 ounces per pound of oil (1.25 ounces total) at the end of the cook and before the pour/glop.

RECIPE -
Total - 40 ounces of oil (2.5lbs)
Water as % of Oils - 38%
Superfat - 0%

Water - 15.2 ounces
Lye - 5.44 ounces (154.351gms)

Olive Oil - 30%
Avocado Oil -30%
Palm Oil - 10%
Shea Butter - 10%
Castor Oil - 10%
Coconut Oil 76* - 5%
Sunflower Oil - 5%

The values soapcalc spit out at me;

Quality Range Your Recipe
Hardness 29 - 54 26
Cleansing 12 - 22 3
Conditioning 44 - 69 71
Bubbly 14 - 46 12
Creamy 16 - 48 31
Iodine 41 - 70 78
INS 136 - 165 113
Lauric 2
Myristic 1
Palmitic 16
Stearic 6
Ricinoleic 9
Oleic 48
Linoleic 13
Linolenic 0

Does this recipe even make sense to you more experienced soapers? I know I'm using a lot of different oils and additives and I have up unto this point kept my CP batches simple and straightforward with 3 or 4 oils max. But like I said at the beginning, I'm alone this weekend and feeling adventurous. :lol:
 
Can I ask the reasoning for the recipe itself?

Just things like the 10% castor - if you're after bubbles, adding the honey will add that in, as well as the fact that bars will lather in the hair better than they will lather in the hands as the hair helps it along.

Also with the hardness, the SL should help that as well - not only does it help with the pouring, but it does also make a harder bar so it is a winner generally for HP. As for the amount of the liquid SL that you would need, I really do not know I'm afraid.

What oil were you thinking of putting in after the cook? There was a whole thread about how you actually work out the lye discount of the finished product. There was some *ahem* discussion about the best method but there are at least two working options depending on your view. I can't find the thread at the moment, but hopefully someone else can point you in the direction of it.

Also, if you have the chance but haven't already, I'd suggest watching a few videos of HP in action - skip to the parts where the soap is cooking so that you can see what you should be looking out for.

I love HP - I am thinking it will be the main way that I make loaf batches when possible to be honest.
 
I wouldn't add any extra SF after the cook, set it at 5% on soapcal. Too much SF in shampoo will leave a nasty film on your hair. I think your recipe looks just fine, similar numbers to my recipe.
SL and honey will be fine for shampoo. If you like GM in your soap, then go ahead and include it too. I would dissolve it in a bit of water then blend it into the oils before adding the lye solution. I'd probably add the honey at the same time to make sure it all mixed in really well.
 
Can I ask the reasoning for the recipe itself?

I'm curious by nature and am eager to discover how using a good number and therefore smaller percentages of oils behave in a given recipe and what the final outcome will produce. I'm hoping to achieve a hard, luxurious, mild, somewhat conditioning shampoo bar with explosive lather. If it doesn't peel my hair off at the roots that will be an added bonus!

Just things like the 10% castor - if you're after bubbles, adding the honey will add that in, as well as the fact that bars will lather in the hair better than they will lather in the hands as the hair helps it along.

I'm aware of your view concerning the use of additives such as butters and other oils and that you don't find them particularly useful in a "wash-off" product. I myself have a slightly different approach in that I find the high number of un-saponifiable parts of shea butter for example, to be worth something. Exactly what, I don't know yet as my experience is rather limited. I'm sure there is probably a little bit of truth to be found in each of our beliefs and neither line of thought is right or wrong.

As to the 10% castor, following my line of thinking, extra creamy lather is a good thing to have. Honey may aid in this as well but my use of honey in this case is due to it's anti-bacterial, humectant and nutrient properties. If it also boosts the lather due to it's high sugar content than that would be an added bonus.

Also with the hardness, the SL should help that as well - not only does it help with the pouring, but it does also make a harder bar so it is a winner generally for HP. As for the amount of the liquid SL that you would need, I really do not know I'm afraid.

This is what I have been led to believe and due to some people, not all but enough, noting that the Genny/Lindy shampoo bar is somewhat soft I'm hedging my bet there as well hopefully.

I still need to determine the correct amount for my intended use.

What oil were you thinking of putting in after the cook? There was a whole thread about how you actually work out the lye discount of the finished product. There was some *ahem* discussion about the best method but there are at least two working options depending on your view. I can't find the thread at the moment, but hopefully someone else can point you in the direction of it.

I'm not sure which oil/butter is best for super fatting a shampoo bar. I'm hoping someone can help me with that. Thank you for mentioning that thread and I am aware of it. At this time I'm hoping that my faith in the notion that whatever oil/butter you add after the cook is what remains as the actual SF will suffice.

As I mentioned above, I'm looking for direction as to which oil/butter and what percentage would be optimum for my stated purpose.

Also, if you have the chance but haven't already, I'd suggest watching a few videos of HP in action - skip to the parts where the soap is cooking so that you can see what you should be looking out for.

Ahh yes, the informative yet highly entertaining YouTube vids! Life would be dull without them I'm afraid. But seriously, yes it is good to know the different stages to expect so one doesn't freak out halfway through the "applesauce" phase and declare the batch a goner.

I love HP - I am thinking it will be the main way that I make loaf batches when possible to be honest.

It does seem an interesting alternative to CP which has been my only experience so far. I'm happy with that method but have wanted to try an ambitious recipe and with all the planned additives, HP seemed a natural fit.

I'm still looking to get my questions answered and do hope someone comes a long with some advice!

It's been nice chatting with you Gent! Have a good day sir.
 
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I wouldn't add any extra SF after the cook, set it at 5% on soapcal. Too much SF in shampoo will leave a nasty film on your hair. I think your recipe looks just fine, similar numbers to my recipe.
SL and honey will be fine for shampoo. If you like GM in your soap, then go ahead and include it too. I would dissolve it in a bit of water then blend it into the oils before adding the lye solution. I'd probably add the honey at the same time to make sure it all mixed in really well.

Thank you Obsidian. I was hoping you would chime in as I find your posts to be of value and have come to respect your experience!

I will take your advice on SF and build it in at your suggested 5% on soapcalc.

Now I just need to determine how much and when to add the Sodium Lactate. I have seen mention elsewhere on this forum for suggested uses in HP so I suppose I will try to dig up that info and use it in my recipe.
 
I use 1-2 teaspoons SL PPO and you add it to your cooled lye water. SL is great to make HP more fluid but I still like a little added salt to help with hardness. I tried SL and salt in a shampoo bar are they are hard as rocks.
 
I use 1-2 teaspoons SL PPO and you add it to your cooled lye water. SL is great to make HP more fluid but I still like a little added salt to help with hardness. I tried SL and salt in a shampoo bar are they are hard as rocks.

Again, much thanks for riding in to my rescue!
 
Honestly, I don't know. I only use the liquid and its possible I've not used enough. I read some place that you can use up to 2% but I don't know what to base the % off of. Is it the oils, the water or the whole recipe?
 
My Great HP Shampoo Experiment went off without a hitch I'm pleased to say!

I didn't end up using honey after all. It was thick and grainy in it's little plastic honey bear and wasn't looking especially appealing. I thought about using sugar but then that would have required more searching to find the right amount and I was ready to make soap.

The Hot Process behaved as I expected and went through all the stages I have seen watching YouTube videos. I used the SL at two tablespoons per pound of oils and added at the end right before my essential oil blend.

I will say it was a lot more fluid of a batter than I was anticipating and I could have almost poured it into the mold. The whole thing behaved remarkably well and it was a good experience. I think I prefer the Cold Process method a lot less time and fuss.

I'll post some photos once I cut it.

Thanks to the Gent and Obsidian for their guidance!
 

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