Time to add some color and design

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MountNView

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I am just beginning to add some colorants and design into my soaps and wanted to get some input. Do you prefer micas or pigments or what and why? How do they compare in cold processed soaps? What suppliers do you use for these products?

Thanks for any input you provide.
 
I use Micas, oxides, and lab color. Mica and oxides are similar, both powder, both should be mixed in a bit of oil before adding. Micas have a shimmer to them, oxides are matte. Micas are nice to have - they are versatile and you can use them to add on stamping for a shimmering design, or mixed in a bit of oil they can make a nice design on the top of soap. Neither of these will bleed.

Lab color is very easy to use, it is a liquid. I buy mine in concentrate that I dilute first. Lab color is very bright and it is easy to blend different colors to get new shades. I usually use lab color when I want a single color soap or when I want the color to bleed into each other.
 
I use micas almost exclusively since they come in so many great colors and are very versatile as Dorymae said. You might want to pick up some titanium dioxide to lighten and activated charcoal to darken (a little goes a long way with it).

I also mix mine in a bit of my base oils. A mini frother makes quick work of that. If I find I need a bit more, I'll add it in straight to my mix. I normally keep my batter at just an emulsion until I get my colors fully blended so I have more time to adjust on the fly.

My favorite suppliers are Nurture Soap Supplies (you really cannot go wrong with any of their colors, plus they have a handy comparison chart showing the final color in CP soap). I also like Mad Oils and have some from Brambleberry.
 
I like oxides and never met a pigment I didn't like, but I confess to being a bit partial to the oxides. The colors are more natural, the oxides are very concentrated, and nobody ever objects to them. Plus they're non-bleeding.

Mica is great as well, but do test. They can morph or fade in CP/HP, depending on the mica. Any good site will tell you which ones are stable at high pH.

FD&C colors can be a lot of fun as well, although many bleed--which can be used to your advantage in a design. Bleeding certainly isn't an issue in single-color designs. Some do morph, which can also be to your advantage. Blue #1 is a bright blue in MP (and on your hands), but morphs to a very nice purple in CP.
 

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