Phenolphthalein help

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Onegrecook

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Hello,

I'm new here and have a question. I didn't see a hot process section so I'll ask it here. I recently made some shaving soap via the hot process method. I don't have PH strips so I used Phenolphthalein. My question is, when I cooked the soap and did a zap test, it passed. However, when I mix a little dab of soap in water and then place a drop of Phenolphthalein in, it still turns pink. I cooked the soap for 2 hours and it still turned pink. I'm using songwind's reverse engineered MDC recipe. Am I doing something wrong, or am I good if it passes the zap test?

Thanks.
 
You are good if it passes that zap test. Soap naturally has a high PH, give it a good cure and it will get milder.
 
Hello,

I'm new here and have a question. I didn't see a hot process section so I'll ask it here. I recently made some shaving soap via the hot process method. I don't have PH strips so I used Phenolphthalein. My question is, when I cooked the soap and did a zap test, it passed. However, when I mix a little dab of soap in water and then place a drop of Phenolphthalein in, it still turns pink. I cooked the soap for 2 hours and it still turned pink. I'm using songwind's reverse engineered MDC recipe. Am I doing something wrong, or am I good if it passes the zap test?

Thanks.


For the record, the liquid soap section would inherently be hot process, since that's the only way liquid soap is made. We just add other steps in after cooking.

As for the zap test, I never trust it. Some people's tongues are more sensitive than others. I've zap tested my pastes before and they fail that, but pass the Phenol-p test. That being said, with the Phenol-p drops, a little, faded pink is ok, since, as Obsidian said, soap has an alkaline pH of around 9. But any brighter of a pink, like fucshia, and it needs neautralization. But I assume that since you only mention doing hot process, and not liquid soap, this batch is hitting the molds so you can't neutralize...unless..you make a small concentrated borax solution and mix it in your hot process paste, then continue to cook so more water cooks out. Then put it in the mold and allow it to dry that way, as usual. Otherwise, as Obsidian said, let it cure. Rule of thumb, let it cook for 3 hours, rather than 2. That extra hour can make a difference, and the whole point of hot process is so you don't have to cure. And if anything, you can always add the borax into your mixture, after trace, morel iekly when it starts to thicken more, so you don't have to worry so much about neutrality.
 
Two hours? I would never cook my soap that long, it would be a crumbly overcooked mess. I have not, however, made that particular recipe, so YMMV.

You do not need to test HP soap with pH strips or with phenol, and it does not need to be neutralized. The zap test is sufficient if you really must test. Another way to test HP is to take out a little bit and let it cool, then while wearing gloves rub it between your thumb and finger. If it feels grainy or waxy, keep cooking, if it feels smooth you are good to go. If you are careful with your measurements you can really just tell by looking if your soap is done cooking.

HTH
 
Two hours? I would never cook my soap that long, it would be a crumbly overcooked mess. I have not, however, made that particular recipe, so YMMV.

You do not need to test HP soap with pH strips or with phenol, and it does not need to be neutralized. The zap test is sufficient if you really must test. Another way to test HP is to take out a little bit and let it cool, then while wearing gloves rub it between your thumb and finger. If it feels grainy or waxy, keep cooking, if it feels smooth you are good to go. If you are careful with your measurements you can really just tell by looking if your soap is done cooking.

HTH

The soap did turn out crumbly. I'm new to soap making so I read to educate myself. I've been reading of people making this exact recipe by cooking for as little as 20 minutes and as long as 2 hours. My soap passed the zap test after 1/2 hour. I'll try it again with a shorter cooking time. The soap is supposed to be a softer soap...not creamy...just softer. Thanks.
 
Two hours? I would never cook my soap that long, it would be a crumbly overcooked mess. I have not, however, made that particular recipe, so YMMV.

You do not need to test HP soap with pH strips or with phenol, and it does not need to be neutralized. The zap test is sufficient if you really must test. Another way to test HP is to take out a little bit and let it cool, then while wearing gloves rub it between your thumb and finger. If it feels grainy or waxy, keep cooking, if it feels smooth you are good to go. If you are careful with your measurements you can really just tell by looking if your soap is done cooking.

HTH


While i understand that this is how you do your soap, please never discourage proper testing measures, especially when they're so cheap to attain and easy to do. I've been making liquid soap, which is hot process soap with a dilution step rather than molding step at the end, exclusively for 2 years, and have never had 'crumbly soap'. And i let mine cook overnight in it's crock pot setting on warm, or the 6 or 8 hour setting..I've had 2 crocks since i started I know my soap well enough to say I never need to test those batches, but the ones that I do cook for 3 hours, I test. Every time. But I'd never discourage proper testing to another. Unless you're doing calculations by hand, we are all depending on someone else's calculations and programming skills to help us in our craft. Human error can still occur, and the least we can do on our end, is be safe and test our soap properly, even after a proper cook. That all being said: it is common practice to cook for 3 hours, at temps of aorund 160-180*F after trace. Anything less than that and you're bound to still have free fatty acids or lye left over that haven't all been saponified. If you don't feel like cooking fully, at the correct temps, or testing, mold your soap and cure for however long it needs to take.
 
Songwind's shaving soap is not a liquid soap; it's a KOH soft soap made with 48% coconut oil and 52% stearic acid. The intrinsic pH of a skin-safe stearic acid soap is 10.2-11.4. The intrinsic pH of a skin-safe lauric acid soap is 7.5-10.1. As a result, the skin-safe pH of this shaving soap is going to be around 10, give or take a bit.

Phenolphthalein turns pink at a pH of 8.2 and turns fuschia about pH 10. This recipe is going to be skin safe even though the phenolphthalein indicator turns fuschia. The key here is whether the soap has excess alkalinity, and pH is not strictly a measure of excess alkalinity.

I've made Songwind's recipe several times. It is zap free after about 30 minutes of cooking, properly made.
 
Songwind's shaving soap is not a liquid soap; it's a KOH soft soap made with 48% coconut oil and 52% stearic acid. The intrinsic pH of a skin-safe stearic acid soap is 10.2-11.4. The intrinsic pH of a skin-safe lauric acid soap is 7.5-10.1. As a result, the skin-safe pH of this shaving soap is going to be around 10, give or take a bit.

Phenolphthalein turns pink at a pH of 8.2 and turns fuschia about pH 10. This recipe is going to be skin safe even though the phenolphthalein indicator turns fuschia. The key here is whether the soap has excess alkalinity, and pH is not strictly a measure of excess alkalinity.

I've made Songwind's recipe several times. It is zap free after about 30 minutes of cooking, properly made.

DeeAnna,

I saw several of your posts in the MDC thread. It gives me a fair amount of comfort knowing you have made this soap several times. I will try 30 minutes. Your explanations are always very clear, thorough, and concise. Thanks for chiming in. I also appreciate everyone else's response. Forums like this are a great place for new people to learn.
 
I have to say that I have never cooked my HP soaps overnight as they certainly don't need it. As for the temp, I cook it at what works which could be anything as I don't test the temp of the batter at any stage, other than by hand to see if it's cooled down enough post-cook for adding in the

It's not often that I feel like doing something that that is not required.

Zap testing is a perfectly fine testing method - and the Phen test was clearly not good in this instance, hence the original question being asked - which then makes me ask if Phen is a 'proper testing method' when it is not producing results that can be relied on?
 
In dilute water-based solutions, phenolphthalein (PhPh) is colorless below about 8.2, pink about 8.2, bright fuschia about 10, and colorless above 12.

If a zap test "passes" and the PhPh test fails, it doesn't necessarily mean the soap is bad. Those results are just telling you two things: there is little or no excess alkalinity to react with your tongue and also the pH happens to be something above 8.2 and below 12.

The pH of a dilute soap solution is determined by two main things -- the excess alkalinity and the intrinsic acid-base balance of the fatty acids and their sodium salts (aka the soap). A properly made soap can have a pH well above 8 and be skin safe. Since PhPh only indicates pH, it can be useful, but it isn't the be-all end-all of whether a soap is skin safe.

What I tell folks is this -- pick a method, any method -- test strips, PhPh, pH meter, zap test, whatever -- and use it in a consistent way. If your tongue doesn't work right or you don't want to deal with tasting soap, then probably the zap test is not for you, but otherwise it's the best option of the bunch.

Get experience and learn how your chosen method performs when testing both skin safe soaps and lye heavy soaps. Don't get hung up on the numbers from a meter or test strip, and don't expect to compare your results with anyone else, because the testing methods are not standardized. Expect when you change the blend of fats in a recipe to get different results. Expect when you make different types of soap to get different results. Just look for trends.
 
In dilute water-based solutions, phenolphthalein (PhPh) is colorless below about 8.2, pink about 8.2, bright fuschia about 10, and colorless above 12.

If a zap test "passes" and the PhPh test fails, it doesn't necessarily mean the soap is bad. Those results are just telling you two things: there is little or no excess alkalinity to react with your tongue and also the pH happens to be something above 8.2 and below 12.

The pH of a dilute soap solution is determined by two main things -- the excess alkalinity and the intrinsic acid-base balance of the fatty acids and their sodium salts (aka the soap). A properly made soap can have a pH well above 8 and be skin safe. Since PhPh only indicates pH, it can be useful, but it isn't the be-all end-all of whether a soap is skin safe.

What I tell folks is this -- pick a method, any method -- test strips, PhPh, pH meter, zap test, whatever -- and use it in a consistent way. If your tongue doesn't work right or you don't want to deal with tasting soap, then probably the zap test is not for you, but otherwise it's the best option of the bunch.

Get experience and learn how your chosen method performs when testing both skin safe soaps and lye heavy soaps. Don't get hung up on the numbers from a meter or test strip, and don't expect to compare your results with anyone else, because the testing methods are not standardized. Expect when you change the blend of fats in a recipe to get different results. Expect when you make different types of soap to get different results. Just look for trends.


I can totally agree with this. using 2 test methods really can confuse a person. I'll be honest and say any soap, commercial or not, that has come near my mouth, has always had a sharp zing to it. And honestly, the zap testing seems very outdated, considering we do have a more lab based approach to testing for lye excess/pH, that are considered more reliable, considering no 2 tongues are alike. What might zap for you, might not for me. Or even, tongue sensitivities over the years..it changes. 1 minute you can handle hot and spicy, the next, not so much But that's just me. Now when you say "well above 8 to be skin safe" what exactly is well above, would be the question to ask here? Is it 12? Or are we breaking it down to decimal places and saying 9.9 or 10? If that's the case, what's the point of lowering the pH to 9 or 9.5, which is from what i understand to be the lowest soap can get before clouding (liquid soap) and break down occur (soap in general)? Also, going on what you said, that using the phenol-p drops would be a better method, if the zap test is only good for a pH above 12, whereas the desired pH for our soaps is lower than that. Please correct me if I misinterpreted.

And to The Efficacious Gentleman, I most certainly wouldn't say it HAS to be cooked overnight. That was just my personal experience i was citing, as back then, I looked at it as "dang it if it isn't done after cooking all night, then to heck with it". As for temps, yeah, there really is no standard as far as, 'it has to be done', but it is good to have that variable so that if something were to go wrong, a person, especailly a newbie, can troubleshoot and make corrections. With the crock i have now, since it's not a digital like my nicer one(that i broke :-? ), it's hard for me to tell exactly what temps each setting peak at, and i only get 3 to work with, unlike my digital crock wehre i had the use of 5 settings, starting at 2 hours (really high) and ending with 10 hours or warm.
 
i totally agree with cooking for longer times with liquid soap, it won't hurt your paste. but i think it's a different story with hp soap. you don't want all the water to evaporate, otherwise you'll end up with a dry, crumbly mess. my hp soaps are usually cooked for 1-1 1/2 hr tops. some recipes even quicker. i rely on my tongue to tell me if it's done. so far, so good.
 
"...Now when you say "well above 8 to be skin safe" what exactly is well above, would be the question to ask here?..."

To be clear, what I said was "A properly made soap can have a pH well above 8 and be skin safe." The pH of a skin-safe soap depends on the specific fatty acid profile of the soap. Speaking in general, the pH of a properly made skin-safe soap will range anywhere from about 8 to about 11. A soap with one blend of fatty acids could have a pH of 11 and be skin safe, while another soap with a different blend of fatty acids could be lye heavy at a pH of 9.

"...And honestly, the zap testing seems very outdated, considering we do have a more lab based approach to testing for lye excess/pH, that are considered more reliable, considering no 2 tongues are alike...."

If soapmakers tested their soaps using standardized lab procedures, I would agree with your point of view. But they don't. In over a year of reading SMF, I don't know of one person who has said she actually measures excess alkalinity. On the other hand, I frequently read posts from people trying to test soap pH, and it's clear they don't have a clue about what they're doing. So let's be realistic and look at testing that most soapmakers can do with some reliability. Even allowing for variation in the human tongue, the zap test is a decent measure of excess alkalinity and it honestly seems to be fairly accurate for most people most of the time. And it's a more reliable evaluator of a skin-safe soap than doing a pH test the way most soapmakers are doing pH testing.

"...Also, going on what you said, that using the phenol-p drops would be a better method, if the zap test is only good for a pH above 12, whereas the desired pH for our soaps is lower than that. Please correct me if I misinterpreted...."

I get the impression that you are trying to equate the zap test to a specific pH range, and that is not an accurate conclusion to make.

There are two contributors to the pH of a particular soap. One is the intrinsic pH of the fatty acid-soap system. If the pH of the soap is equal to that intrinsic pH, the soap will be skin safe and zap free. The other contributor to the pH of a soap could also be excess alkalinity -- too much lye. Excess alkalinity will raise the pH above the soap's intrinsic pH, the soap will not be skin safe, and the soap will zap.

If a soap maker measures the pH, how does she know from just that pH number what the intrinsic, skin-safe pH should be for that particular soap? The answer is ... she doesn't. Not without directly measuring excess alkali can she actually know whether the soap is skin safe or not.

That said, there are indirect measures based on accumulated collective knowledge and the individual soapmaker's experience. The zap test is one of them. The use of phenolphthalein in liquid soap making is another. And as I said in my earlier post, any pH testing method can end up being a reliable indirect measure of a skin safe soap for a soap maker, as long as she is willing to: "...Get experience and learn how your chosen method performs when testing both skin safe soaps and lye heavy soaps. Don't get hung up on the numbers from a meter or test strip, and don't expect to compare your results with anyone else, because the testing methods are not standardized. Expect when you change the blend of fats in a recipe to get different results. Expect when you make different types of soap to get different results. Just look for trends...."
 
Two hours? I would never cook my soap that long, it would be a crumbly overcooked mess. I have not, however, made that particular recipe, so YMMV.

You do not need to test HP soap with pH strips or with phenol, and it does not need to be neutralized. The zap test is sufficient if you really must test. Another way to test HP is to take out a little bit and let it cool, then while wearing gloves rub it between your thumb and finger. If it feels grainy or waxy, keep cooking, if it feels smooth you are good to go. If you are careful with your measurements you can really just tell by looking if your soap is done cooking.

HTH
You are right on...you would never never cook hp that long! As mentioned above you will learn to recognize when it is done. Overcooking will certainly make a dried out mess.
 
I do have a pH meter en route to me. Just to let you know that I do plan to use it soon. However, I still plan to zap test every batch. Why, you ask? Because I am giving this soap to people I love. And if I am scared to put it on my tongue to test it, I am not going to give it to them. If it goes in my mouth, I know it is safe beyond any reasonable doubt for their skin.
 
So I sat on what you said DeeAnna, and quite frankly, after doing a little more reading, it didn't compute with me. One moment I had the "A-Ha! I get what she means now!" And next, I was stumped all over again. So, today I had a conversation with a good friend of mine about it. As she herself said, she's no "soap doctor". But she loves her science, and does have 7 years of under graduate and graduate study in science and biology. She was majoring in biomedical engineering. She explained to me what you were getting at and after a half hour chat, between her 7 years, with my bit of experience in biology and medicine, plus soap making, we came to some very definitive conclusions, and I'd like to see what everyone's thoughts are.

To start, the intrinsic argument seems to be a bit misrepresented here. While yes, soap does have it's own, based on what kind of soap it is. This pH is brought down to a more neutral level through soap making. In the end, the intrinsic pH doesn't have a huge effect, and it just means we are starting with a product with a higher pH, that needs to be brought down. However it may not be brought down as low a preferable. That being said, the pH is still a solid, measurable number that means the same thing, no matter what is going on inside. a pH of 11 is still dangerous and can kill your skin cells. No matter what. A higher pH number just means that there are more basic atoms (atoms that have extra electrons) than acidic atoms (atoms that need extra electrons). A neutral pH means they effectively cancel each other out. Put simply, 11 is not skin safe, no matter what, and it should be tested adequately. It's a common concensous that soap cannot attain a pH below 9 without falling out of solution. So that it what we attempt to attain through proper soap making methods and testing.

Now lets look at the testing methods. We al know that the 'zap' test is the universal method in soap making for determining if the finished batch is 'lye heavy' or excessively alkaline (high pH). If it zaps, it MUST mean it's lye heavy, correct? Not true. There are several factors that can effect this test quite easily and can give plenty of false positives/negatives at any given point. Let's start with the basics behind the test.
The reason soap would zap your tongue is because it is making a battery. You're mouth's pH is more acidic than your skin because of enzymes in your saliva that break down food. So, it may be true that the soap may zap your tongue but may not immediately irritate your skin, because there is LESS OF a pH difference between your skin (5 or 6) than the difference between your tongue(3 or 4) and the lye (10-12). However, using any product on your skin that is significantly different from your skin's natural pH level (while it may not be immediately apparent) could still cause damage to your cells. If the drops are turning very pink, that means the pH is still much higher than 7. While you should expect it to be a bit higher than 7, you definitely don't want it to be too high, tongue zap or not. Which is why, again, we attempt to attain a 9. So now, i've covered the science behind the zap test, let's look at why i can be inaccurate more often than not. If the soap doesn't zap, that just means the difference in pH isn't large enough to feel the electrical charge. It will only zap when the pH is a certain amount higher than the pH of the tongue. There has to be a big enough difference. So, while a zap says theres a big difference, it doesn't say how much. It isn't a quantifiable answer as to whether the soap is truly lye heavy or has a high pH. To put it in another perspective, back to one of my previous arguments, everyone's tongue is different. And it can be different on any given day. The mouth is already naturally acidic. It shouldn't ever be basic, unless you just drank something like milk of magnesia. Now when i mention the variables between each person, person A's mouth may be naturally more acidic than person B. And if they both do the zap test on the same bar of soap, person A is more likely to feel the zap than B, if B feels it at all. Also, we don't exactly know what the threshhold is for a zap to occur between the acidic mouth, and basic soap, so the soap could very well have a pH of 9. But it still zapped person A, because their mouth is more acidic. Now add in day to day factors like, eating or drinking, and that definitely changes things. A mouth with a present pH of 2 or 3 testing a soap with a pH of 9 or 9.5, is a huge threshhold/ gap and will most definitely zap. Me persoanlly, I do drink soda, which is acidic. Therefore, my mouth is going to be more acidic than the person who doesn't. My soap will more likely always zap me. Unless something else of variying pH was in my mouth prior to testing my soap, ie, water, food, coffee, alcohol, whatever. Now if a person's mouth were naturally a little higher on the pH scale, closer to neutral, or even neutral for that moment, testing the same soap, it won't zap. And again, because we don't know the exact threashold between an acid and base before the zap occurs, the pH of a soap could be a 10 or 11 and not zap either. But because the general procedure is, "no zap no lye excess/high ph", the soap maker won't accurately know the true pH of their soap, nor be able to take corrective measures.

To summarize: The closer in pH a person's tongue is to the pH of their soap, the less likely it will zap. The further away in range, the more likely. And without knowing the threshhold in Ph differences, at when the soap begins to zap, we can't definitively prove the accuracy of the zap test. It's results are not quantifiable to indicate 'skin safety" because there are too many factors that can effect when the soap will zap. But testing for pH using modern laboratory means, ie phenol drops, strips or a meter, are all quantifiable, in that you will get a number to work with. While it is understood that the zap test was the best way to determine doneness for some time, we do have more accurate means for testing safety.
As a scientist, my friend does not recommend the zap test considering there are more appropriate methods. As a soap maker, who soaps for her family first, and who would like to someday sell her goods, safety is of upmost improtance to me and based on my conversation with my friend, I am now more than reaffirmed that the zap test is outdated; that it is not safe. This -->> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phenolphthalein, is more accurate in regards to testing pH of my soap, than a test that has many variables that can affect it's results. Even then, there are better methods, and I may just as well upgrade. A pH meter really isn't expensive at all. With that, there should be no reason to discourage any soap maker from using proper testing methods, no more than is should be to discourage one from using a preservative in their soap. But the latter is a whole different subject I'm not getting into at this time.
 
I think your confusion is on excess alkalinity - it does not mean a high pH, as you put it "excessively alkaline (high pH)". It means more alkalinity than it should have if it was not lye heavy. The zap comes from unsaponified lye - lye which is still looking to offload it's ions on to an eagerly awaiting tongue. A soap with no excess lye (no excess alkalinity) will not zap.

Something could be pH 8 or pH 11 but have no excess alkalinity. Something could be pH 8 or pH 11 and have excess alkalinity (lye heavy).

This is why pH testing is far from the best method for an average soaper to use - it doesn't actually tell you if the soap is safe to use or not! You could get a high pH and throw it away when in reality it's perfectly fine. You could also get a lower pH and think it's great, only to find it's lye heavy.
 
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I think your confusion is on excess alkalinity - it does not mean a high pH, as you put it "excessively alkaline (high pH)". It means more alkalinity than it should have if it was not lye heavy. The zap comes from unsaponified lye - lye which is still looking to offload it's ions on to an eagerly awaiting tongue. A soap with no excess lye (no excess alkalinity) will not zap.

Something could be pH 8 or pH 11 but have no excess alkalinity. Something could be pH 8 or pH 11 and have excess alkalinity (lye heavy).

This is why pH testing is far from the best method for an average soaper to use - it doesn't actually tell you if the soap is safe to use or not! You could get a high pH and throw it away when in reality it's perfectly fine. You could also get a lower pH and think it's great, only to find it's lye heavy.

Do you not understand that excess alkalinity equates to high pH? They are one and the same. Remove all other possible factors that could cause it: lye exess, intrinsic elements, what have you. Excess alkalinity is going to register as a high pH on the scale. Period. Alkalis are on the higher end of the Ph scale, after 7, and have fewer hydroxide ions. Whereas acids are on the lower end, before 7, and have more hydroxide ions. The more alkali in a material, ie lye excess in soap, since lye is an alkali, the higher the pH. It is basic chemistry, even more so, junior high science, that doesn't require a biomedical engineer to explain. In any rate, a high pH is bad for your skin, no matter how you want to look at it. Bottom line. We neutralize our soap to combat the effects of lye heaviness and/or high Ph. Once neutralized, meaning brought down to 9, not 7, then it is skin safe, or as skin safe as we can get it without it going out of solution. It's very simple and there's no point in trying to further complicate it with different terminology for the exact same thing. Lye heavy (or excess), high( or excess) alkalinity, and high pH are synonymous: the material is on the far basic (there's another term) end of the scale, and the issue must be corrected for the soap to be skin safe.

As for the zap test, I'd already throoughly and simply explained that. And it wasn't the first time I've seen it explained as the battery effect that happens. Using that method is not accurate in the least, and I will reiterate, because there are too many factors that can effect that test, most notably, how acidic the tongue is at the time of testing. The soap is really the only constant in that whole test method. It's not going to change pH until the soaper changes it. The mouth however, constantly changes because of what has been put in it, or the overall condition of the body. Quite simply, the closer in ph the mouth/tongue and soap are, the less likely you will get a zap. The further in pH, the more likely. Now where each variable lies on the pH scale at that moment, who one knows, again, without proper testing. Then of course there is the unknown variable of the threshold at when the zap occurs: is it a pH difference of 2? 5? Nobody knows. And even if we did know, I don't imagine anyone testing the pH of their mouth before testing their soap. You amy as well test the soap directly, properly, at that point.
 
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i'm getting more confused, lol..

i found this bit on wiki though (not the best source, i know, i know :D):

Excess unreacted lye in the soap will result in a very high pH and can burn or irritate skin; not enough lye leaves the soap greasy..

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soap
 
i'm getting more confused, lol..

i found this bit on wiki though (not the best source, i know, i know :D):

Excess unreacted lye in the soap will result in a very high pH and can burn or irritate skin; not enough lye leaves the soap greasy..

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soap

Wiki can be a good source to start with honestly. It can give you a foothold for cross referencing facts. It's not like it was back in the day when the site first launched. That being said, that excerpt you pulled up definitely simplifies what I'd been trying to say. Lye excess is synonymous with high pH when it comes to soap. Hands down. And that high pH WILL damage skin cells. Ph needs to be properly tested to avoid this issue. And a zap test is not adequate, nor is it quantifiable, meaning there is nothing to compare it to in order to assess accuracy. You cannot scientifically put on a piece of paper WHY you got a zap. You can say " it zapped because it has excess Lye, or high ph". My question would be, " how do you know for sure that that is the actual case? What evidence do you have to present?" . Let's put it this way, if the US FDA or any other government agencies were to require testing for Lye excess or high ph, the zap test would not fly. They're going to want to see lab results. Quantifiable evidence. And lab results will be first off, based on a pH test. Because, again, Lye is an alkali. And alkalinity is measured on a pH scale.
 
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