weird swirly indents and cold temp soapmaking

[sevenebulas]

No oxide colours .

It would have to fully gel first (I peek a lot if I have to cool it quickly).

To cool the soap after gel, having the soap on a cooling rack and running a fan over it strips the heat pretty well.

Do you want the air flow around it, or do you blow it directly onto the soap top? I worry about cracking from dry tops, but I don't know a lot about it.

 

[SaltedFig]

Do you want the air flow around it, or do you blow it directly onto the soap top? I worry about cracking from dry tops, but I don't know a lot about it.

Gentle air flowing all around the soap is the aim (to carry away the heat).

I have not had a problem with the top drying or cracking, when the air is flowing over the top of the soap (as well as around it) while it's cooling.

Stop the fan when the soap is not hot anymore.

PS. sevenebulas, I like your pretty soap swirls!

 

[Susie]

I use the "set the mold into an ice water bath in the sink" to cool my soap quickly. It can stop a batch from volcanoeing in a hurry.

I do not re-heat my lye water when masterbatching. I just mix it into the warm, clear oils and it re-heats itself.

 

[sevenebulas]

I have not had a problem with the top drying or cracking, when the air is flowing over the top of the soap (as well as around it) while it's cooling.

Stop the fan when the soap is not hot anymore.

PS. sevenebulas, I like your pretty soap swirls!

Thank you very much! I will have to try a fan. Maybe it will help with my heating fragrances cracking issue.

I do not re-heat my lye water when masterbatching. I just mix it into the warm, clear oils and it re-heats itself.

Good to know! Thank you!

And thank you everyone for your thoughtful replies to my original question! They have been so helpful!