Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

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Nanda

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Hi everyone!

I've done this formula before and it was a success, but this weekend I tried it out again and it was a complete failure even though I did everything as the last time, so I'm guessing it might be a temperature issue since I live in Sweden and it's winter here now. Anyway, if anyone here has tried formulating with SCI I would highly appreciate if you guys could help me troubleshoot this.

The formula is:

53% H2O
10& Cocamidopropyl betaine
10% Sodium cocoyl isethionate (with stearic acid)
5% Coco glucoside
10% Aloe vera juice
2% Glycerin
2% Hydrolyzed oat protein
2% Polyquaternium-7
2% Coco caprylate
2% Panthenol
0,5% Optiphen
1% Fragrance
1% Crothix

The issue here is that the SCI is mixed together with Cocamidopropyl betaine, I used a water bath and heated them and the rest of my water phase apart (exept for preservatives, fragrance, panthenol, polyquat and crothix). BUT the SCI simply won't melt.

I've read online that it has a melting point of 200 degrees celcius which is very high, I would say even for a regular stove so I'm guessing a water bath simply won't do. When I mix the 2 phases together the SCI simply forms a film floating on top and won't mix at all no matter how much I try to stir it in.

How do you guys use SCI, and how high do you usually heat it before it dissolves? I'm used to having water evaporate quickly even with a water bath so it scares me to just put it over a regular stove top.

Thank you so much!
 

lsg

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If you have the noodles or pearls, try grinding them up in a coffee grinder or blender. I melt my SCI with the coco betaine in the microwave. I have to take it out after 45 second bursts to stir it. It takes a while to melt the SCI pearls or noodles, but the SCI powder melts a lot faster. You can order the powdered form from Aquatech Skin Care. I don't know if it is available in your country.

http://www.aquatech-skincare.com/mi...C&Product_Code=8071&Category_Code=SURFACTANTS
 

Nanda

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Hi and thanks for your reply!

I purchase the ground up version of it, so it's already a very fine powder. Very clever idea of melting it in the microwave, but how does it react when you combine it with the (I would guess much cooler) water phase? No separation?
 

lsg

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I usually heat and hold my water so it is hot too, no separation issues.
 

Nanda

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Update: I've talked to a lot of people experienced in SCI and some of them have experienced the same problem, so it definetely seems to be a temperature issue.

I managed to solve it by tweaking the formula by adding 30% coco betaine to 10% SCI instead of 10% coco/10% SCI as previously and it dissolved enough to be able to be stick blended into the water phase. The formula is completely clear and with no separation so this might work for others as well if anyone experiences the same problem. :)
 
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