My First Batch of Soap

[SoapNewbie01]

Hi everyone I'm really excited about learning and making my own soap. I made my first batch today wtih 10% superfat, and everything seemed to go really well. My batch saponified nicely and traced pretty quickly, I added some essential oil for scent and had to mix more to achieve trace again, which I think I burned up my hand mixer . But I know my mold now was way to big and so this is what I got. See pictures attached. I attached my recipe as well.

Any and all advice much appreciated!

Thanks

 

[SoapNewbie01]

Here are the results after cutting. I got nine bars 3x2.5inches . it looks like it's still in gel phase? Or does it just need to dry for the 4weeks or so? Also I tried a tiny piece and it lathers and bubbles nicely, should I have done that?

 

[KiwiMoose]

Success! Looks great.
If it was in gel phase then it would be hot and very soft to the touch. Gel phase happens in the mold. Usually in the first few hours after pour.

We don't recommend using the soap straight away because it is still potentially lye-heavy until after the full cure time has elapsed. However, a lot of us do test at this stage coz we're excited to see what it's like. Did you do a zap test on it before using? This will tell you if there is still any lye present.

 

[TheGecko]

Here are the results after cutting. I got nine bars 3x2.5inches . it looks like it's still in gel phase? Or does it just need to dry for the 4weeks or so? Also I tried a tiny piece and it lathers and bubbles nicely, should I have done that?

Congratulations! Your soap looks very nice for a first attempt with no fancy equipment.

I don’t think that there has been any soaper who has not tested their soap fresh out of the mold...I know I have done it on several occasions. I generally try to contain myself and at least give it a week. You really want to let your soap cure for at least six weeks.

I would cut the SuperFat back to 5% and trade 10% of Coconut Oil for Olive Oil. Once your batter as emulsified you can only go forward, not backward. Some EOs and FOs will loosen up your batter, but you don’t actually ‘lose’ trace.

Again, great job!

 

[SoapNewbie01]

Success! Looks great.
If it was in gel phase then it would be hot and very soft to the touch. Gel phase happens in the mold. Usually in the first few hours after pour.

We don't recommend using the soap straight away because it is still potentially lye-heavy until after the full cure time has elapsed. However, a lot of us do test at this stage coz we're excited to see what it's like. Did you do a zap test on it before using? This will tell you if there is still any lye present.

Thank you . What is the zap test? I haven't come across that in my research yet.

Congratulations! Your soap looks very nice for a first attempt with no fancy equipment.

I don’t think that there has been any soaper who has not tested their soap fresh out of the mold...I know I have done it on several occasions. I generally try to contain myself and at least give it a week. You really want to let your soap cure for at least six weeks.

I would cut the SuperFat back to 5% and trade 10% of Coconut Oil for Olive Oil. Once your batter as emulsified you can only go forward, not backward. Some EOs and FOs will loosen up your batter, but you don’t actually ‘lose’ trace.

Again, great job!

Thank you very much, i'll try 5% on the next batch. Will that help make the bar harder quicker? Superstars help with moisturizing correct?

Thank you very much, i'll try 5% on the next batch. Will that help make the bar harder quicker?( Superfats) help with moisturizing correct?

It auto corrected :/

 

[shunt2011]

Congratulations!!! If there's no zap you can test it out. I certainly did when I first started. I looked at your recipe and your coconut is way too high form most people. Coconut is extremely cleaning in soap so you may find it a bit harsh. I don't recommend much higher than 20% except in a couple situations (100% CO and Salt Soap) they require high superfat of 15-20%. Also, since your recipe is high liquid oils soaping at a 33% lye concentration and that will help as you are using less water. I'd just give it a good long cure and see what you think. I would tweak your recipe by adding some hard fats (palm, lard, tallow) and dropping your liquid oils. Especially avocado. I don't use it at more than 15-20%, generally 15%.

 

[dibbles]

Congratulations on your first batch - it looks very nice. And yes, I've taken a small piece to test right away too. Here is a thread about zap testing:
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/how-to-properly-safely-conduct-the-zap-tongue-test.63199/

 

[TheGecko]

Thank you very much, i'll try 5% on the next batch. Will that help make the bar harder quicker? Superstars help with moisturizing correct?

No. Here is a good explanation of SuperFat from The Spruce Crafts:

The Reason for Superfatting

There are a few reasons why soapmakers may choose to superfat their soap. The first is, a small amount of extra "free" oil in the soap adds extra moisturizing qualities to the soap. This can often be referred to as "emollient" qualities. Basically, it makes the soap more moisturizing to the skin. Another common reason is that by superfatting your soap recipe, you will have a bit of a "fudge factor." Having extra lye in your soap is a big problem, much bigger than having extra oil.

Additionally, many oils will vary slightly in their true SAP (saponification value). Superfatting builds in some safety if your scale is not completely precise. Having a little extra oil in the recipe assures that every one of the lye molecules will have more than enough opportunity to pair up with an oil molecule.

 

[SoapNewbie01]

No. Here is a good explanation of SuperFat from The Spruce Crafts:

The Reason for Superfatting

There are a few reasons why soapmakers may choose to superfat their soap. The first is, a small amount of extra "free" oil in the soap adds extra moisturizing qualities to the soap. This can often be referred to as "emollient" qualities. Basically, it makes the soap more moisturizing to the skin. Another common reason is that by superfatting your soap recipe, you will have a bit of a "fudge factor." Having extra lye in your soap is a big problem, much bigger than having extra oil.

Additionally, many oils will vary slightly in their true SAP (saponification value). Superfatting builds in some safety if your scale is not completely precise. Having a little extra oil in the recipe assures that every one of the lye molecules will have more than enough opportunity to pair up with an oil molecule.

Ok awesome, so it does add moisture but gives a little wiggle room in the recipe. So with my current recipe, you think it was to much at 10% super fat. It leaves your skin really soft. Also here is my soap calculator results and everything seems to be in check. Not sure if it's necessary to us this, I read both sides.

 

[KiwiMoose]

I think what most of us are saying, is that while your recipe is fine and it makes soap, you might be better to experiment a little more with your ingredients and you will potentially be able to make and even better soap! AND I would suggesting changing your lye concentration to around 30 - 33 % as a newbie.

 

[SoapNewbie01]

Absolutely, You all have been really encouraging and helpful. I am definitely tweak my recipe and try new things. I want to use palm oil instead of avocado and maybe try Shea butter. Eventually I would like to do colorants as well.