I guess I pour my soap before it reached light trace. Can I rebatch?

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Hello all,

I am very new to soap making and had a problem last night. I made soap and tried to make a swirl. I was too worried that the soap will reach too much trace and I wouldn't be able to make a pattern I planned, but I ended up pouring some of my soap before it traced. After I finished pouring I saw some kind of bubble on the top of my soap and I was just wondering why. Beside, I also felt like a layer of oil was on top. Anyway, I insulated my soap as normal. But after I woke up this morning, it just popped up in my head "Did I pour the soap before it reached light trace?". Then I googled and found some information mentioned about pouring soap before it traced and I thought it was like my soap last night.

My questions are
1. Can I rebatch my soap in a crockpot?
2. If yes, shall I add distill water or coconut milk?
3. Do I have to add more EO to keep the smell at the same level?

Please kindly suggest.
Thank you
 

lsg

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If your soap is still soft with a layer of oil on top, mix it thoroughly and put it in the crockpot. Heat on low and stir often. Only add extra liquid if the mixture looks too dry. Continue to heat on low setting until the mixture reaches the "Vaseline" stage. Add FO or EO according to suggested usage rate. Stir until well incorporated into the soap and pour into mold. Most EOs/FOs will not survive the cooking process, that is why they are added at the end of the cook. At the end of the cook, I often add about 1/8 cup of powdered milk, dissolved in a small amount of water. This helps smooth out the soap paste, providing a smoother pour.
 
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Hello
I'm so glad to see your reply. Thank you very much.

Here is the photo of the soap that I just cut. The smell is very fresh. I must be really sad if I have to rebatch them but if it doesn't really work I will have to.

From what I cut, I noticed that they aren't like my other batches. They look transparent in some areas.

What do you suggest?

Looking forward to your advice.
Tanya

If your soap is still soft with a layer of oil on top, mix it thoroughly and put it in the crockpot. Heat on low and stir often. Only add extra liquid if the mixture looks too dry. Continue to heat on low setting until the mixture reaches the "Vaseline" stage. Add FO or EO according to suggested usage rate. Stir until well incorporated into the soap and pour into mold. Most EOs/FOs will not survive the cooking process, that is why they are added at the end of the cook. At the end of the cook, I often add about 1/8 cup of powdered milk, dissolved in a small amount of water. This helps smooth out the soap paste, providing a smoother pour.
Thank you very much. It has been kept for 2 days before cutting. I just cut it. Can I use coconut milk instead of coconut powder. I guess I don't have the powder one.

If your soap is set this morning do not worry about it. I usually poured my soaps when my batter hit a stable emulsion because once my batter would hit even a light trace I was too late to do swirls.
I don't really get the idea of emulsion. From the picture I posted, will it be okay?
 

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That soap looks fine to me, and I like your colors!

The color and transparency variations you are seeing are commonly known as glycerin rivers. They are cosmetic only and tend to be most visible in the parts where you have used TD. They show up more in soaps with a low lye concentration (high water), and when the soap gets hot enough to gel.
 
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lsg

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Thank you very much. It has been kept for 2 days before cutting. I just cut it. Can I use coconut milk instead of coconut powder. I guess I don't have the powder one.
I have never used coconut milk in HP soap, so cannot advise if it will work as well as powdered milk,(cow's or goat's milk). You can also try adding about 1/16 to 1/8 cup cream or half & half instead of powdered milk.
 
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That soap looks fine to me, and I like your colors!

The color and transparency variations you are seeing are commonly know as glycerin rivers. They are cosmetic only and tend to be most visible in the parts where you have used TD. They show up more in soaps with a low lye concentration (high water), and when the soap gets hot enough to gel.
Really oh my god I'm sooooo happy and glad that you like the colors.
By the way, after reading about glycerin rivers, I understand that it won't go away even after fully cures. Am I right?

I have never used coconut milk in HP soap, so cannot advise if it will work as well as powdered milk,(cow's or goat's milk). You can also try adding about 1/16 to 1/8 cup cream or half & half instead of powdered milk.
Thank you. Anyway, if my soap is ok to use and won't be skin irritated, I think I won't rebatch them. Maybe I should use litmus paper to test if the soap is safe to use - what do you think? Can litmus paper tell?
 
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Thank you. Anyway, if my soap is ok to use and won't be skin irritated, I think I won't rebatch them. Maybe I should use litmus paper to test if the soap is safe to use - what do you think? Can litmus paper tell?
Zap test is a better way. Soap has a naturally high pH; that doesn't mean it isn't safe to use. Check DeeAnna's post about the Zap test.


 
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Zap test is a better way. Soap has a naturally high pH; that doesn't mean it isn't safe to use. Check DeeAnna's post about the Zap test.


Thank you very much. This is truly new knowledge for me.

Let them cure, I think they look really pretty.
ok I will. Thank you so mu h for your support.
 

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Hello
I'm so glad to see your reply. Thank you very much.

Here is the photo of the soap that I just cut. The smell is very fresh. I must be really sad if I have to rebatch them but if it doesn't really work I will have to.

From what I cut, I noticed that they aren't like my other batches. They look transparent in some areas.

What do you suggest?

Looking forward to your advice.
Tanya
I'm not seeing any real problems with your soap...some glycerin rivers and a partial gel, but that is just cosmetic. And the colors are pretty. I think you will be fine, just let them cure for six weeks.
 
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I'm not seeing any real problems with your soap...some glycerin rivers and a partial gel, but that is just cosmetic. And the colors are pretty. I think you will be fine, just let them cure for six weeks.
Oh I will. Thank you very much.

I think your soap is very pretty. If they don't zap, let them cure. Besides, rebatching is no fun IMO.
Okay I'll let them cure. I also like the colors but don't really like the pattern. I don't understand much about swirling techniques. Feel free to comment and suggest. Thank you very much.
 

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