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thanks. thats good advice. Its the base oils i want to adjust to get the color so it reflects even in the basic soaps.

yeah, its hard to explain but i cant small a difference. Thanks, honey sounds interesting.

do you mix the lye up before hand and let it cool or do you mix it before putting it in?

by only adjusting the base oils. For example, i love the smell that coconut brings and i wish my soaps where a little more tan in color. White is fine but a tan appearance would feel more natural. How can i bring a tan color with base oils and which base oils do you feel add the best aroma?

well, of course not. even if i where to make lye its still really just a harsh chemical.

well i think i need to check out that board. My soap making "goal" is to make completely natural soap with Essential oils as many people i know believe in the effectiveness of these oils for topical application. This draws a bright light for me in regard to things like titanium dioxide and...

what im curious about is how much damage the lye does to the EO. for anyone who has done both, does it seem like half of the EO's are diminished once the soap is cured or less?

for those of you who do CP or perhaps have done HP and CP with EO's, how much do you feel the reaction breaks the EO's down?

you rock. Thanks a ton.

does anyone have a link to a tutorial for rebatching? Im trying to save some overcooked batches.

seems like it would only measure surface temperature.

once again, thanks for the help you give.

thanks for your help and as usual, there is no reason to be rude.

this is very interesting. I tried cooling my lye water some this time and my results, while not complete, where much better.

werd

so explain this false trace if you dont mind.

i think that sounds like the rebatching process might itself destroy the EO due to temperature. what do you think about adding sugar or increasing water?

Well, im aware that i can still lose EO as the reaction will still be occurring even past zap. as for the definition, the high point is that since these EOs are volatile, the flash point is the point at which the state change occurs in ernest. This would be equivalent to the vaporization...

yeah, that was a misstype. i think my crumble comes from the fact that i wait for it to cool below 117 degrees before i mix in the EO and mold. I think this gives it a chance to partially harden which is causing the appearance. I need to find a way to keep it pliable longer.

thanks for the tip. Do you have any thoughts on increasing the water by 10% from 38% and adding sugar? My whole shtick is EO soap so its important to me that i preserve as much as possible. Adding EO with active lye will surely destroy some of the EO at a faster rate by percentage than it...