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Thanks all. Here is a picture of the (successful) Espresso soap that is now curing thanks to the help I get from this forum:

Thanks all for the tips! I'll take these to heart. One more question: I've seen reference to keeping the coffee cold. Does this have to be the case? Or can it just be room temperature?

...and pour the lye into the coffee when it's time? I'm going for something like this recipe here: http://soapdelinews.com/2015/06/homemade-coffee-soap-recipe.html It says, however, to add lye to water separately, and add coffee to the oils separately. It all sounds complicated. Is all of...

How does the color turn out that way? I'm aiming for this: http://soapdelinews.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/natural-food-soap-recipe-500x319.jpg (The one on the left)

That makes sense. So the total amount of water isn't necessarily for the purpose of dissolving the lye then! Today I learned.

So I want to try this recipe: http://soapdelinews.com/2015/06/homemade-coffee-soap-recipe.html As you can see, it calls for But I want to use a different fat profile (I've have success with equal parts coconut, olive, and palm), which throws all of the calculations askew. My question is...

Oh. I wanted it to actually be in the soap, that's what the question is about. So does anyone here have experience with that? Putting comfrey leaves in their actual lye soap?

Forgive my newbness--what do you mean by "infuse"? Put the comfrey in the oil before mixing it with the lye water?

Oh, darn. Didn't know that would be an issue. Is there any other issue than the leaves changing color? I can handle brown leaves, it kind of fits with the theme. But if they become useless, that might be an issue. Anyone else here have experience with comrey leaves as well?

So I'm thinking about making a "Hobbit-themed" soap (with hemp oil, tobacco scent, and comfrey leaf - you know, the Halflings' pipe-weed). I'm looking at using comfrey leaf for texture: https://www.brambleberry.com/Comfrey-Leaf-P6443.aspx My only thing is, don't these leaves get...

So is the freezer paper there to lift the soap out of the mold or is it there to prevent the soap from touching the steel? Is rusting the main problem? Or does steel react poorly with soap period? It would be regular steel.

...or will it react poorly with the newly-poured lye soap? I ask because I might have the perfect soap mold solution staring me in the face, I'm just not sure how well steel would work.

I recently did a multi-colored soap which is looking great. But there was one problem. During the soapmaking process, I kept the fragrance oil in a red plastic cup so it was pre-measured. The fragrance oil turned red. Not sure if it had been red the whole time (someone else poured it), I...

Interesting, so maybe I could just plug this into the next batch for the soap calc. Sorry, what are FO's? I'm new (ish) here.

In my latest batch, I used a soap mold (minimal soda ash) and an improvised soap mold (a square cardboard box lined with freezer paper) which resulted in thin bars. The real soap mold bars are mostly good with minimal soda ash, but there's a lot on the thin bars. I looked it up and saw that...

Thanks for the help everyone! This answered my question.

Here's the recipe I'm using: http://i.imgur.com/2unHaOT.png I have some green pigment from Brambleberry I'll be adding. My impression was that I add this to the soap once everything is combined and it's achieved that "pudding" stage before pouring it into the mold, and mix it around. Now I'm...

I have the Brambleberry Coconut Oil. On Soap Calc, there are different options: Coconut Oil, 76 deg Coconut Oil, 92 deg Coconut oil, fractionated Which do I choose to correspond with my coconut oil?

Here's the link: http://i.imgur.com/2unHaOT.png Thanks in advance!

Now a veteran of my first batch, I'm posting in the regular forum. What what. Anyways, I've got a lot of coconut oil to use, so I'm wondering if this will create an acceptable soap: