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You'll live, but it is not something you want to make a habit of! I'm sure that prolonged exposed to breathing in anything other than air would be harmful over the long haul, but I think we have all breathed in some powders and such along the way.

I work with clove EO mixed with tea tree in one of my soaps and yes it is horrible if you don't take precautions! My only "soap on a stick" was with clove, and it happened so fast I was left shaking my head! To work with clove soap very cold - refrigerated cold. Only bring your oil and lye...

Lol! I promise zap does not feel like electrocution! Zap is more of a sensation than a feeling, it does not hurt but feels very very tingly. Like touching your tongue to a nine volt battery. If you are not sure if you were zapped - you were not. It is unmistakable. Even if your soap is 2% lye...

This needs some clarification. Bath bombs need a binder, that is a liquid that will evaporate. You can use water, alcohol, or witch hazel. All of these contain some water, and yes all of them can activate a bath bomb. Alcohol (99%, 90%, or 70% ) contain the least water followed by witch hazel...

In this case use cocoa butter. It will be solid at room temperature but will melt once in the bath. If you are going to use cocoa butter or any oils in your bombs I suggest you use polysorbate 80 in the amount of one quarter to one half the amount of oil and or butter. This will prevent the oil...

It is easy to get bath bombs to float - and you don't need beeswax - and you can achieve it in one batch. Bath bombs float when their density is less than water. Now since all recipes are different it is impossible to say a certain weight will float - But because weight is a factor in...

If your soap is made properly and not lye heavy 99% of saponification is done within a couple days. Cure isn't about getting rid of the lye as much as it is about hardening the bar so it will last, improving the lather and overall improving the performance of the soap. Taking 1 bar to try it out...

If you have a dollar store in your area they sell little spoons (cocktail spoons) that work perfectly. They are plastic but silver colored and just the right size for sampling creams.

In my experience lotions will thicken upon cooling, but do not thicken over time unless they are not bottled immediately. If they are left out, or in wide mouth containers there can be some evaporation of water which will cause thickening. The thickness of a lotion is determined by the amount of...

Reviving this old thread now that the conference is close. So anyone going?

I second swifty's blog. Check it out! http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/search?q=Shampoo

Just an FYI , melting beeswax and mixing with castor oil makes a product that looks and acts a lot like petroleum jelly, not quite as trainslucent but with a definite "jelly" like feel and look. I make it for my family and add in tea tree oil as a alternative to antibiotic ointment. Not quite as...

It is scary that she is selling this. I formulate lotion both with cocoa butter and Shea and it does not separate even when heated and cooled. Here in Arizona it gets hot, and I have found my lotions will thin out in the heat but they never separate. Preservatives are essential in anything that...

Honestly the colors are beautiful. If you want more bold colors you need to purchase micas made for achieving deep colors. Try vibrance micas, I think they were from natures garden. They give pretty true colors, but for the red you need to add in a raspberry color or something similar otherwise...

The positive is the part you will use to create the mold. For example the negative is the mold itself, if she tried to use it as a positive she would end up with soap shaped silicone. She does not want soap shaped silicone she wants a mold that will make the soap shapes, so she needs a positive...

Hi Zerby! I'm in Buckeye. Try using 75percent Lard 20 percent coconut oil and 5 percent castor oil. Makes a beautiful hard white bar with great lather. I use a 5 percent lye discount and the bar is very nice for this dry climate.

That does not look like DOS to me. It looks like a reaction with either the fragrance oil or metal. DOS usually comes out as spots not long stripes. Was the soap in contact with metal at anytime during the cure? I would plane it off and then wait to see if there is anymore discoloration.

I've made plenty of salt bars and salt water bars as well. A friend was asking about magnesium flakes and I was not sure how lye would affect it. I will let her know it makes soap insoluble and to stick with putting them in her bath water instead of soap!

It would put the drops through the entire loaf. One pour would be an entire line down the loaf so when cut it would look like a drop.

Is it possible to dissolve magnesium flakes in water and use that water to make soap? How would lye react to that? I've seen many bath salts made with magnesium flakes but I was wondering about how it could be incorporated into soap.