Would it be to late to try to stamp (just the surface) with sort sort of colorant with a platypus stamp? Maybe spray the surface of the soap with alcohol first to try to get the colorant to stick. It wouldn't last long but neither would a carving.
I don't know much about formulating liquid soap recipes or using the same recipe (oil wise) as bar soap, but you will need to use potassium hydroxide instead of sodium hydroxide. Since you are using a different lye you would need to check potassium hydroxide when you put the recipe through the...
I think most micas that are unstable in CP soap are unstable because of the high pH. They would probably morph with stamping as well since the pH of the finished soap product is still quite high. But like the previous poster said you won't know for sure unless you try them out.
Oh, definitely. The vanilla content of this fragrance is through the roof. I was just surprised because the batter was darker than the inside of the soap was. In fact this is what they look like less than 12 hours later.
I had to restrain myself last time I ordered fragrance oils, I love the smell of coffee/coffee products (hate the taste) and they had so many that sounded good!
This is a picture of a coffee soap I made with 3x brewed coffee and NG Cappuccino fragrance oil. I expected there would be a color difference between the outside and inside, but I didn't expect it to be so drastic. The fragrance is amazing!
Emilys' To Make List
Everything:crazy:
I have goats milk in the freezer, coffee (for kitchen soap) and already enough soap to last me for the next two years. I still havn't played with colors and have only used FO's in two batches. So I feel like I still have everything to make!!!
Forgive me if I am missing something obvious. I am very new to soaping and have only ever used a wooden loaf type mold. Also, most definitely NOT a math guru. The only thing that stands out to me is that you are listing the volume of your mold in oz and trying to match that number to the weight...