PKO and CO Vs PO, Tallow and Lard

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mosesakpan

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Hello fellow Soapers,

I need some ideas about PKO and CO Vs PO, Tallow(Beef and Goat) and Lard.

I've read that
1.) PKO and CO can be use interchangeably and also PO, Tallow and Lard. I've confirm this is so.

2.) PKO and CO are harder, foamy and cleanses more than PO, Tallow and Lard. But my practical observation shows something different. The later make a harder bar and cleanses more than the former. But I can confirm the later foams more.

Before now my Laundry bar recipe was 100% PKO and 80PKO:20T. But now I want to make 60T:40PKO with zero superfat. I think I'm going to get a harder, foamy and better bar with a higher cleansing power for washing cloths.
http://www.soapworld.biz/oils_and_fats_in_soap_manufacturing.html

I live in a developing country and majority in my area uses Laundry bar washing cloth.

I'll welcom your ideas.
Thank you
 
Here's a nice webpage on different oil properties: http://www.lovinsoap.com/oils-chart/

Comparing the fatty acid profiles of different oils is really useful, as well as learning what different fatty acids bring to the table. That link above shows you some handy charts of both!

I was just on the site before I notice your post. Thank you all the same. I've seen this site severally. But recently I stumble on the site i posted above. When I studied it carefully I noticed it contradicted with what I knew about CO and PKO in terms of their cleansing power as compared to PO and Tallow. Infact I decided to test a 100% Tallow bard that I made two months ago. I'd refused to sale it because I thought it won't make a good laundry bar. But I'm surprise the leather it has and cleanses well better than my PKO bar. The Leather it forms is steady. The bar is harder and lasted.
 
The key point here is you are talking about a LAUNDRY bar soap and not a body bar soap. So the cleansing value for laundry and the 'skin-oil-stripping' cleaning value for skin don't really compare. You want oil-stripping for a laundry bar, of course. Not so much for skin.

So I think what matters most for your soap is cleansing and long lasting. It looks like you also like lather when cleaning your laundry, but it's not really the most important part of cleaning clothes and it takes more water to rinse out a lot of lather. At least that is my experience when I hand-launder.

As for your recipe, I agree 100% that it should be 0% SF because it is for laundry. And I would think you would have a longer lasting bar soap with less coconut oil than your preciously used, so if it were me, I'd go for it. From what I read, the goat tallow might be longer lasting than the beef tallow, so as mentioned both, I'd try each and compare.
 
Thank you Earlene for your insightful contributions. I actually rendered goat tallow today. I have an option of beef and goat tallow and I'll go for goat. It appears it has slight edge over many other tallows. Also it appears easier to render than beef.
 
I find although CO makes a hard bar it dissolves quickly and it is super cleansing. So much so that it dries my skin out.

Lather is different to bubbles.
Not everyone cares about bubbles in soap.

I find those fatty acid and soap calc numbers meaningless when it comes to testing/comparing soap.
Try out your soaps and see what the differences between the oils are for you and your skin.
 
Last edited:
I find those fatty acid and soap calc numbers meaningless when it comes to testing/comparing soap.
Try out your soaps and see what the differences between the oils are for you and your skin.

Thank you Penelopejane.
My abandoned 100% Tallow is my best now. I used it for all my manual laundry and bathing. My kids use them as well
 

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