Emusified Sugar Scrub. Please look over

[donna75126]

I made this scrub and tried it out and under the warm water it feels very slimy not like it was too much oil. Once I had it all rinsed off my hands felt very good. It just took forever to get the feeling off.

34 grams Shea Butter
23 grams Emulsified Wax
11 grams Beeswax
18 grams Steric Acid
141 grams oils (I used mostly Almond with a tiny bit of jojoba and apricot kernal)

I added 5 grams preservative
16 oz of sugar.

Maybe it needs to sit overnight??

Donna

 

[Genny]

I've always let mine sit for about 24 hours before using.

 

[semplice]

What did the beeswax add? Is it hard? Just curious!

 

[Hazel]

The beeswax adds hardness to the scrub. Personally, I don't like the beeswax because it leaves a waxy feel on my skin (my sisters didn't like the feeling, either) plus makes the scrub really hard to scoop out in colder months. I've eliminated it from my scrub recipe. However, eliminating it completely makes the scrub extremely soft in hot months so it comes down to personal preference. I just leave the beeswax out since I use scrubs mostly in the winter months.

I'm wondering if what you're feeling is the beeswax. You could try a small batch without it for comparison. This is just a suggestion but you might try the amounts I listed below if you want to make a batch without beeswax.

36 grams Shea Butter
27 grams Emulsified Wax
23 grams Stearic Acid
143 grams oils

Also, I use .5% Vitamin E as an antioxidant. I would add 2 grams of Vitamin E. That's more than .5% but my scales aren't the best and it's hard for me to weigh just 1 g. I'd actually end up using more than 2 grams because I'd have to weigh out slightly more for it to register. I don't worry about it because I figure it's good for the skin, too. I use Vitamin E but some people prefer rosemary oleoresin extract (ROE) as an antioxidant.

I don't know what preservative you're using but 5 grams seems more than is required; at least compared to the preservatives I use. I calculated 2 grams for the size of your batch but that's also on the high side for a preservative which maximum recommended amount is .8%. The lowest recommended amount would be 1 gram. But please double check the recommended amount for your preservative since it varies depending on which one you have. For all I know, the preservative you have may recommend 5 grams for the batch size.

eta: You may already know this but you can check your scales for accuracy with 5 US quarters - they will weigh 1 ounce or 28 g. When I want to make sure about using only 1 gram or two, I place quarters on the scale to create more weight. Then I pour out 1 g or 2 so I have more accuracy.

 

[donna75126]

My scrub was a little harder than I wanted. I did do a small amount without beeswax and added some liquid glycerin soap and I liked it so much better. Hazel, I am going to try the receipe you gave. It lookls like something I will like.. why is steric acid in alot of the scrubs? The preservative I used was optiphen.

I did not know about the qtrs. being used for checking the scales.. thanks for that info

 

[Hazel]

That's a good idea to add a little liquid soap to your scrub. agriffin posted a recipe awhile back where she added some liquid soap into a scrub. You might want to look at it to see how it compares to your recipe. It might give you an idea on tweaking the amounts of the ingredients. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19295

Stearic acid helps to stabilize emulsifiers and helps to thicken. You may not need as much stearic acid as I mentioned above but I was trying to end up with the same amount of grams you had for your original recipe plus add a little more thickness. Stearic acid can also produce a waxy feel and a bit of a drag if too much is used. You might like cetyl alcohol as a alternative. I've never used cetyl alcohol but other people have said they prefer it to stearic acid in scrubs and lotions. It doesn't produce a drag like stearic and supposedly makes the finished product feel a little silkier on the skin. But I'm just repeating what I've read. You can type "cetyl" into the search box and bring up discussions about it. (A little off topic - I like glyceryl monostearate better than stearic acid but I don't know where to buy it anymore. I used to buy it at Snowdrift but they've closed now. When I need more, I saw ingredientstodiefor has glyceryl stearate SE but I'll have to research it more to see if it's what I want.)

I can't emphasize enough that everything we make comes down to personal preference. Just because my sisters and I don't like the feel of beeswax in scrubs doesn't mean someone else wouldn't love it and hate the feel of a scrub without it. You might try the recipe I posted above and hate it. This why it's so important to tweak recipes until you're happy with the results.

Which Optiphen are you using? Optiphen, Optiphen ND or Optiphen Plus? There has been a lot of contradictory info about whether the Optiphen varieties can be used in anhydrous products. Susan posted about it on her blog. http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.ca/20 ... sited.html

I play it safe and only use Optiphen for lotions and creams. :wink: I recommend Swift's blog which is awesome if you need more info on preservatives.

eta: I forgot there are also some scrub recipes on Swift's blog if you wanted to see different versions.

 

[lsg]

I make a emulsified salt scrub using Epsom Salts and melt & pour soap. It might work as a sugar scrub also. If you would like the recipe, just pm me.

 

[FOhoarder]

I just made this exact recipe with a few changes in the oils. You got it off YouTube right? I though I had optiphen the entire time and right when I went for it discovered I didn't have it so I subbed pheneonip with the same amount the recipe called for. Now I read that the preservative amount is too much to begin with. Should I toss this batch? I'm a little mad that this person is giving wrong info in her videos especially when she is giving them as a teaching tool for natures garden! I really thought she knew what she is talking about and has a successful soap business. I don't know what to believe anymore! Im obviously very new to using a preservative and just starting to fool around with other bath recipes. I have been on swift monkeys site and it's a fabulous site with tons of info so it's hard to take it all in at once. I was thrilled to find this easy recipe for a first plunge and have it come from someone I thought was very knowledgable and my bubble was bursted when I saw this. Again, anybody out there with real knowledge, should I not use this scrub? Thanks so much everyone!

 

[donna75126]

I am with you on the disappointment of the youtube video. I have been using the scrub on my feet. Anytime I make a scrub that I am not happy with I always use it on my feet..I have very soft feet. I made a small amount without the beeswax and it was better. I thought the scrub was a little harder than I wanted. I am going to play around with some this weekend and if I find one I like I will post it. I guess we should not take everything as good that is on youtube

 

[Genny]

Can I ask what video you guys got the recipe from?

 

[Hazel]

youtube is a great resource if the videos are made by knowledgeable people. Unfortunately, anyone can make a video and there is a lot of misinformation. Some of the videos on youtube are downright scary.

 

[FOhoarder]

Oh yes I know you must take whats on you tube with a grain of salt but this person I thought was extremely knowledgable in soap making and such. I'm on my iPad so I'm unable to get the URL but she is well known and does videos for natures garden under the name ngproducttester. She has done several how tos and seems to know tons. Do you think my scrub is still ok to use with the high preservative amount?

 

[Hazel]

I know the lady who made the video from another forum (although she doesn't know me :wink: ) and she is using another lady's recipe who is very knowledgeable. I made this same recipe over 3 years ago. Well, not quite the same - the recipe's percentages are slightly different but only .5% to 1%. So I can say it does make a really nice scrub. It wasn't quite what I preferred but it gave me a starting point to formulate my own recipe. You could use Tocopherol (Vitamin E) as a small percentage of the soft oils. It helps to extend the shelf life of the oils and it's really good for the skin.

What amount of preservative did you use in what sized batch? Where did you read the amount was too much? (eta: ***) I noticed she said to add 5 grams of Optiphen. I don't think she added too much preservative since I would add about that much, too. I add equal weight of sugar to my scrubs so if I did a 230 gram batch, it would actually be 460 grams when it's done. Optiphen usage rate is .75%- 1.5% of the total weight of a batch. If she used 1.5%, it would be 7 grams. Phenonip usage rate is .5%-1% so it wouldn't be too far off in weight. Phenonip at 1% would be 4.6 grams so 5 grams isn't much more. To be fair, you probably didn't need that much and could have just used 3 grams but it's not going to be harmful. You just used more than you really needed. BTW, I've read if you use salt instead of sugar then you only need to use enough preservative for the weight of the oils, etc. The large amount of salt also acts as a preservative. I play it safe and still use the same amount of preservative whether I use sugar or salt.

I wouldn't worry about the extra preservative. But if it does bother you, you could always make a little more and blend the two batches together.

*** Apology to Donna - I just realized when I checked your recipe that I only calculated preservative for just the oils and other ingredients. I didn't include the weight of the sugar. I'm sorry and I hope I didn't mess you up. (I'm so embarrassed.)

 

[donna75126]

Hazel,
No need to feel bad about the preservative. I am just very happy that their are ladies on this site that are so willing to help us new people as we are learning.

Donna

 

[FOhoarder]

I was confused about scrubs as far as figuring out preservative amount....do you add total weight of sugar or just the base oils? I found an answer on swift monkeys site and she says....

"when I make a sugar scrub, I make the base, then add the scrubby bits. I base my preservative amount on the amount in the base and I don't tend to take into account the salt or sugar. So I'd make up my base of oils, butters, and so on and use 1% Phenonip in the heated stage. I would add my salt or sugar at the rate I like - generally 140% for sugar, although I will go higher - and not add extra preservative to compensate for the scrubbies."

So what is the norm for everyone out there that sells their scrubs? I'm not selling anything just curious. I guess if you're selling then you should be knowledgable in preservatives.

Hazel, that sounds like a good idea about making more and adding to it. That will make me feel a bit better. It is a nice scrub and it's not oily at all.

 

[Hazel]

Hazel,
No need to feel bad about the preservative. I am just very happy that their are ladies on this site that are so willing to help us new people as we are learning.

Donna

Thanks! I'm glad I didn't mess you up. I feel badly about making the mistake.

Swift is very knowledgeable and she certainly knows more than I do or will ever know. I just add preservative for total weight of the batch - oils plus exfoliant. In one of my classes, we covered bacterial types, contamination and skin diseases from pathogenic bacteria. It made me very, very nervous so perhaps I err on the side of caution.

I think people should do what they're comfortable with so you could only use enough preservative for the weight of oils and ingredients. I also have a habit (possibly a bad one) of starting to use a batch and then setting it aside for to start using a new variation of whatever I've currently made. Later, possibly much later, I will go back to the older batch and start using it again. I feel safer making sure I use enough preservative. Also, it's really such a small amount. In most cases, I only use .5% or maybe .75%.

 

[rebobinar]

If you wanted your batch to be a little less firm than this, would you up the oil to butter percentage? Or would you use a different type of butter? I've made this (without the wax) and like it, but I think I'd like it more if it were just a bit softer...

 

[Hazel]

This is an interesting question. I hadn't thought about using all soft oils in the scrub. It would make it slightly softer but I don't know how soft. There are a several different ways you could do it. You could reduce the stearic acid amount and use soft oils to replace the difference rather than eliminate the shea. You could reduce both the stearic and shea amounts, just reduce the shea amount or eliminate the shea. Shea is a soft butter and has a lower melting point than some other butters. Mango may have a lower melting point so it might be softer in the scrub. It's been quite awhile since I've used mango but I'm fairly sure it melted faster on my skin as compared to shea. Now you've got me wondering how to make this scrub softer...

Reduced stearic

36 grams Shea Butter
27 grams Emulsified Wax
12 grams Stearic Acid
154 grams Liquid Oils

Reduced stearic and shea

25 grams Shea Butter
27 grams Emulsified Wax
12 grams Stearic Acid
165 grams Liquid Oils

Reduced shea

25 grams Shea Butter
27 grams Emulsified Wax
23 grams Stearic Acid
154 grams Liquid Oils

Eliminate shea

27 grams Emulsified Wax
23 grams Stearic Acid
179 grams Liquid Oils

I don't know how any of these recipes would turn out. I'm not an expert so hopefully someone who has more experience will take a look at these and make corrections if I've messed up. I'm just showing them as alternate ideas which may make a softer scrub. I want to mention that without the beeswax this scrub does melt easily in hot weather. I had a container of scrub which separated when it got really hot (95+F) during the summer.

You could try mango instead of shea. I can't really recommend any other butters because the only other ones I've used were cocoa butter and kokum which I didn't use in scrubs. Maybe someone else could recommend a different butter. You could also add less salt or sugar.

eta: Coconut oil or Babassu oil might make a good substitute for the butter.

 

[rebobinar]

Thanks very much, Hazel - I'm going to try it with the mango and with less sugar - I might have overdone the sugar slightly...
Do you believe the stearic is necessary? Or do you think I could eliminate that completely and go with just the butters and oils. I live in the Pacific NW, so I'm not too worried about it getting too soft in the summer - especially at this point in the year. Our summers are often in the high 60's... 8)

 

[Hazel]

Stearic acid is a thickener and I've read it also helps to stabilize some formulations. Leaving it out completely will definitely make this scrub softer but I don't know how necessary it is for helping to keep sugar and salt suspended in the mix. I'm sorry I don't have an answer.

You could try it and let us know how it works out.